ZSaint

Three of us lifted my shell onto the trailer. It was very light for us. I think the 400-450 range is correct. My rotisserie is designed to work with any vehicle up to 3500#. We used 1/4" thick 4" tubing to build it. It will hold a fullsize car, no problem.

My blew/blough/blue seats are in great shape, externally. However, the "straps" under the seats are both blown out. I see some repair kits for these seats advertised for 19.95. What kind of job is it to put in new straps? Do I need to remove the seat covers? Or???? :cross-eye

Can you update an older 240 with later 280 retractable seatbelts and harnesses? I would like some retractors over these floppy straps that hang from everywhere.

I know everyone knows this, but... Please caulk the car whenever you put on new panels. I had the rear deck replaced because it was bubbling in the right corner. I sealed it up big time before it was painted. There will not be any water seeping into my z. It is very water tight. I sealed the side vents, too. Water just seeps in these places and eventually rusts the metal. I hope you are doing the same on your car. No one wants this to happen again in another 15 years. Seal it for eternity, is my motto!

Yeah, that's the ticket! If I ever hang my coat I will know where it goes. Thanks!

I have the plastic hangers, I have the clear plastic/screw (just 1!) but what is the rounded chrome piece that goes on the top of the window? What goes there?

I have raced many years and never have I seen such deplorable tactics by the corner workers. They do not have a flag protecting them. They should have waited for some protection before trying to move the bike. I know they realized the danger but they paid the price. The poor guy that hit them was hung out and did not see them until it was too late. I hope the worker survived.

Bill: Send me a message via email. :squareeye

I have seen these in chrome at upholstery shops. Not original but they will keep the plastic from shifting around until you get an OEM one.

I saw those clear plastic washers and screws in my extra parts. Now I know where they go. But, what are they? Does something slip over these plastic screws or ???????????? Wait a minute... I but they are there to keep the plastic from warping. Am I right?

Most people go the other way... Put a 280 into a 240. If you want a good running car then put the 240 into you 76. Take some time and rebuild the 280. When you get the time and money to finish the rebuild, just stick her in. I would run the 240 stock with a mechanical fuel pump, SU's and your 280 ignition. KISS or Keep It Simple, Stupid! By the way, do you have any parts from your seats? I need one of the round covers from the seat adjusters. You have one of these?

After looking at this project, my '71 "rust free" California 240Z was a creme puff. I had a bit of surface rust under the battery and that was it. I guess I was just lucky. Good luck in saving this rusty ol'Datsun. Another one SAVED!

I put some primer on the sills where the screw holes are. I put a double coat of sealer on both floors. They were rust free and I had a chance to seal them for "enternity". It is not as pretty as the blue but it will be protected. They will not rust out in our life times!

I am guessing you need to brake the glass out to get it apart. I use "Goop" adhesive. They make it for all kinds of uses: Wood, auto, electrical, general purpose, etc. I think it is all the same. It sticks to anything and HOLDS. This is what I use to glue my mirror glass into my bases. It works!

Here is what the painter saw. He said he would spend a lot of time getting it ready to paint and what would be gained? Maybe my conscience! I have forgiven myself, almost.

I know, I know! I talked about it with the painter. He said the interior was good without any rust and it had excellent blue paint. The orange is actually primer. I spotted a few screw holes, surface rust and spots that had no paint. It was time to do all of that. This Z is a lot better protected now then it was at the factory, new! :nervous:

I finally have it on its wheels. I bolted mine to the bumper area. It sure made it easy to put everything on and in. I will finish the interior today. Hurray! I will start putting the engine and tranny in next week. I am hoping to find some one to help me with this. If you read where some old guy was crushed under his Datsun, I'll be the guy. I used to change engines in an hour on my race car Z's. I was a lot younger and more dedicated in those days. This is a lot more fun, however, taking my time.

I had the entire suspension "powder coated". Everything has been 'baked' with the exception of the axles. If it is not powder coated, it is plated. What a pain wire brushing all of these nuts and bolts and parts for the plater. My wire wheel is about 2" smaller after doing all of these parts. My labor? I am getting $1.50 and hour and loving it!

I know there are not that many blue interiors around so I left it "blew". My wife said it does not match the blue exterior paint that well but what the heck, it is 'stock'! I have 95 'Vette rotors and calipers front and rear. I have a buddy that is doing a '36 Ford and he has the same brakes. I have 280ZX CV axles and a R200 3.9 L/S. It was a pain getting these items to fit. We did a lot of cutting, maching and welding to get these axles to work. I will not know how they work for another month. I am starting to put the info together for the S/S brake lines. Datsun has a double 'something' on the steel lines that GM does not have. They will need to be special ordered. You learn a lot of things doing one of these Z restorations. After you have learned it, you will never use this info again. Sad.

I finally figured out how to post pics. People have asked me for more pictures of my '71. Here are some pics of my progress. I hate working with the diamond plate vinyl. I put glue on all surfaces and then fight the shock tower over and over, sticking and unsticking until it it's "kinda done". I guess it would help if I had 3 hands! I am slowing gaining on the interior. :nervous:

It seems to me that a mirror can be cut and ground to just fit into the stainless back. It will not be a fit like the stock mirror had but it will still work. It will have maybe .050-.060 clearance around the edges. It will still look good and be useable.

They are liners for my tool boxes.(Nice pic!) How did I forget them? I only took them out 10 months ago. Geeez, it is tough getting old. Thanks guys. I will put them in tomorrow. They will make for a quiet ride! Here is where they go, right? I am gaining on this sucker!

I do not know how to post pics on this forum. These foam pieces are about 24" wide. They have a smaller retangular piece on the bottom and kinda funny diamond shaped on top. I am guessing they are designed for sound/noise control.

I have two identical foam sheets that appear to be sound deadenors. They are black on one side and foam backed. They are very flexible. I am guessing they go under the dash. I cannot remember where they go. They appear to have been glued in place. Can anyone help me out here? :nervous:

I had a Sunbeam Tiger and it had the "dual" firewall in it. (I think BMC has them, too.) I guess Nissan decided against it. I am glad they did. Makes a cleaner firewall.