ZSaint

I looked at this page and I have this info on file. (That is why I shortened the outer flanges) I was just looking for an easy way to put these CV axles in the car. I guess I will just go out and do it.

I put the hub in the vise and attempted to beat the arm into place. It was too tight and kept crawling around. I gave up and started to work on the passenger side. I put the other arm on the hub and it had all kinds of clearance. I drove the pin right in... no problem. I decided the hub must be too wide. I put it in the vise and used a grinder to grind off .030 on both sides. I used a polishing wheel to smoothe it up and the arm slid right on. It now has the same clearance on the passengers side and the driver side. It worked for me! Just needed a little clearance for the poly bushings. :knockedou

I have my car on the rotisserie. I have it upside down and all of the rear supspension is on. The R200 is also bolted in the car. I have shortened the outer drive flanges 3/4" each. I now have an additional 1 1/2" of travel over the stock ZXT set-up. What is the best way to install these axles? I can take the shock tower out of widen the space until the axles are bolted in. I can then insert the towers back into the 3-holes and the rear supension is done, correct? Or, is there a better way to put these axles in. I await your responses.

Wait a minute... I am putting a 15/16 BMC from a 79 ZX onto my '71 240. I hooked up the lines for my 4-wheel disk brakes. Are you telling me that this BMC is reversed? Or, are the 79's and the 71's the same?

OK, that will give me .012. It is a lot tighter then that.

I am working on this project by myself. I have new poly bushings on the lower a-arm and I am trying to get it onto the rear hub. It is too tight to get over the hub to start tapping in the double threaded bolt. It is all powder coated so I hate to use the vise. I have started it a couple of times but it needs to be driven into place. Anyone got any ideas? :devious:

Bingo! That is what the Australian L6 page gives for the compression ratio. I am hoping this is correct! Nissan had 5 pistons but had to order 1 more. I hope they are from the same 'batch' and will balance OK. We had one set of V/6 pistons where one piston was 8 grams heavier then the others. Hard to get 8 grams out of a cast piston. We had to lighten the wrist pin to get the assembly to balance. Only time will tell. I get a bit anxious about this project. My wife tells me I have all of the time in the world. Who cares if it takes a year. It keeps me off the streets! (Off the golf course and rivers, too.)

I am using a Felpro H/G which gives 5.7cc's (stock is 7.1cc's), the F54 block is bored .060 (87.5mm), I am using a P90A head (53.6cc's), LD28 crank (+4mm) and 240 rods. I get 499.122cc's for each cylinder. 2995 cc's is what we get for total displacement. Once I get these LZ22S pistons I will know more about our compression ration.

I got this info off an Australian ZCar web. I just looked at the pin height L24 piston has a pin height of 38.10 The LZ22S piston has a pin height of 35. Given my extra stoke, I am guessing this piston is just about right on the pin height. What do you think?

I am hoping this piston for the LZ22S engine has short rods. That is the only way a person can get a 9.4 cr with this long rod and large combustion chamber. I will see what the pin height is after the pistons arrive. EN1 know what these pistons have for a pin height?

I have a set of 240 rods. The bore is 87.5 and I have a LD 28 crank. What is my engine size?

I used the chart that allows you to "build" a L6 engine. You punch in the various options (block, rod, head, head gasket and piston) This piston is the only one that offers 9.4 cr. It must have a dome on it or uses a shorter rod. I just hope this works like the formula states.

I just installed my tank with new hoses. I do not feel they will bend or collapse. I used tranny lines and they are heavier in construction. I used a couple of plastic ties on the one at the front of the tank. It makes a pretty good turn and I put these ties on it to keep it from crimping. Maybe one of the lines will crimp. No big deal as long as it doesn't leak. These tanks have all kinds of venting. One line lost will not hurt a thing, IMHO.

I ordered the pistons from the Nissan Dealer. The cost is $57 @ plus rings. They have 5 but they have to order one. I hope it is the same piston. Some times you get a different "batch" and you cannot get them to balance.

I found the info I needed on this engine. It came in a 720 pick-up truck between 6/80 and 10/82. It was 87mm stock and came with a long rod. (S designation) These piston will work on the L6 engines with the LD28 crank. They will provide 9.4 cr with the P90 head. I am trying to order a set of +2 (87.5) pistons for my engine. I will let you know my results and what they cost.

I am looking for a set of +.5mm pistons for a "LZ22S" Nissan. What is it? A truck? Euro model? Japanese Model? Help me out here guys.

The info I have says a "LZ22S" 87mm piston will fit with 9.4 cr. What the heck is this Nissan? A truck? EN1 know what this designation is?

We always used a 16" length of 1" hose to stuff between the chains. I found a plastic-handled screw driver in an engine I purchased. It had run so long that the handle had warped from the heat but the driver part did not hit anything. I guess they were just lucky and I was lucky to find it.

I think that a piston "rocks" back and forth once it gets broken in. If it remained plum in the bore, all would be well. I remember the first 'race' engine I built was a 2.0L BMW. The 12.5 Venolia pistons came with a huge dome. I had to modify the head to get the domes to fit. I also remember the pistons hitting the head! After that, I let Phred and Hatch do all of my stuff. Pay 'em up front rather than pay for another set of new pistons! I did a lot of 'trial and error' engineering. It ended up costing me a lot of time and money. It was a nice way to learn engine building, however. I also remember building an oil pan baffle for my Tiger. It was a thing of beauty! I forgot about the crank throws... It made a heck of a noise when I started it. Oh well, I learned the hard way. Things were good in the 70's!

Thanks for the info. I will call Dave and see what he recommends and what he has.

I think the stock Nissan headgasket is thicker then the Felpro gasket. In terms of cc's... The Felpro gasket has 5.7 cc's while the Stock gasket has 7.1 cc's. The stock headgasket will provide you with additional clearance. I believe they say you need .040-.050 clearance on your piston to head clearance. Everything stretches a bit at 7,000+!

Who is a reasonable supplier of L6 pistons? I have a set of pistons that the engine builder "mocked up" and told me the pistons were at deck height. When he put it together he said the piston is down in the bore .050!!! He calculated the cr to be 9.3 and now he says it will be 8.1. It will be perfect for a turbo but I have no such plans. I do not want to spend $600 on a set of custom forged pistons. I am happy with a good cast piston. What do you guys recommend? specs: 87.5 mm bore with a 83 mm stroke = 2995 cc

Yeah, that's the ticket... Change something! (heh, heh) I don't know how I'm going to get all of these pieces back together again. Like I really need another project! Oh well, it will get done, somehow.

I believe that is why we are installing CV joints... 79 ZXT half shafts. U-joints are the weak link in the stock axles.

Your thread is not 'hot' anymore. I tried to get it but it is a "no go". I guess there is more to this conversion than people know. I think someone needs to do a tech article on the complete procedure. I have the one that I got for the dust shields. No one mentioned that the stub axle had to be shortened!