ZSaint

I found their web site. Got some pics of their shortened outer flanges. I have a buddy with a lathe. He can cut the flange, machine a line-up groove in both pieces, press them together and then have it welded. Presto! The axles will bolt right in.

Interesting stuff. I will check out the hybridZ site. I have the pages from the net that talk about changing the dust covers (which I have done). No one talks about the length of the axles problem. I will search the site and see what they say. I guess I can see if I can change the CV assy. to gain a little, too. I'll let you guys know what I find.

I am installing CV axles out of a 79 ZXT into my '71 240Z. I have an R200. I did the dust cover mod, cleaned and painted the axles. Now they are too long to fit into the car. I talked with another guy putting the same axles into his Z and he is having the same difficulty. He says the way to go is to machine the outer hub, cut out 1 1/2", press them flange back on and weld 'em up. I have never heard of people doing this mod. I know people install these CV axles but this is a new one for me. Anyone done this?

I guess I did not realize that driving a show car 1000 miles a year would hurt the environment. Now, lets talk about killing our wild animals...! (heh, heh) Thanks for the info on nuts and bolts. I know that LOWES has a great section of metrics. I will look for a large ACE Hardware in Salem. I guess I can use these "larger-headed" bolts and nuts if I have to. It will save me a lot of trouble running up and down I5 to the platers!

My bad! I did not do that for the first 2 buckets. Now I have a table full of nice iridite-plated material that I am having to use as I need it. I started to size them and measure them later. I am thinking of doing away with the vent tank. I am guessing I can just leave one vent on the top, right beandip? Do you exit that vent line outside the car? Do you need a filter on it? That is what I did on my '73 Duster. I just vented the line and put a 180` bend in it. Did away with the carbon cannister.

Some excellent points, gentlemen. I'll remember to put the diff strap on first. The body/paint guy has to finish the front and rear of the car once I get it on its wheels. I will just have to fight the rear bumper on with the tank in place. It is going to be a long haul for me. I am not wanting to put it back together with the old bolts. I keep taking them up to the plater as I need them. I had them all separated into small sacks to keep them straight. When they come back in a bucket, it is hell to find the correct screw, nuts, bolts, flat washers, lock washers, etc. I think I will start using my Sony digital camera for the platers stuff before I throw it in the bucket! It will all work out. I am retired so time is on my side! I am having some concerns about the lines for the tank. What have you guys used to hook up these lines? I know they need to be special hose. What about using some copper tubing for all of the 90` turns/bends? I am thinking of buying fuel lines and then installing a couple of 90` bends to direct the hose through the 'maze'. Any plastic or hard vinyl pieces that will withstand the gas fumes? Any other ideas?

I am ready to start assembling my Z. I have the brakes and struts at the machinists. He is ready to take them to the powder coater. I should have them back next week. I am wondering what order I should put things back on the car. I do not want to put parts on the car that will make it more difficult to assemble. I am going to put on the master cylinders today and attach the brake and gas lines. I will install the wiring harness next. When should I put the fuel tank in? The tub in on a rotisserie so I can get at things very easily. Some of my parts, lines, bolts, etc. are at the platers and should also return next week. Can someone give me a list of how they put their Z back together? I have the Z book but he does not have an "order" or sequence for assembly. (Along with a lot of other missing info!) (I will install the engine and tranny last, of course.)

Great stuff. I will look at the info you provided. I want to make certain that this system is not LOUD. I do not want to sound like a fart can!

I know there are new studies out that show improvement in torque and hp ratings for larger exhaust pipes. These have been done on V/8 cars, of course. I saw (Mopar Muscle) a Challenger that had an X-pipe with a 2 1/4" system changed to a 3" system. They picked up 12 hp and I think 16 hp in torque improvement. This was on a 300 hp crate 360 ci engine. That is a 4-5% gain. I have not seen any chassis dyno work for a similar change on the L6 engine. I might be interesting to know the outcome. I am installing a 2 1/2" system on my '71 240Z (carbureted 280ZX engine). It seems like the correct size for the exhaust system. I will use the header (6-2-1) pipe size (2 1/2") for the entire system. I cannot see the advantage in running a larger system on a street car. I think this will breathe very well at 6,750!

Wait until this fellow discovers that the Z only has an AM radio. (Well most of them!) Yowsa, yowsa, yowsa!

I looked at the Dynomax webpage and could not find the #17723 turbo muffler. I did find a 17733 that seemed correct. I just do not know about the inlet/outlet needs. Maybe someone can get Dynomax to tell us the correct number. Someone sent them a message. Maybe they will respond.

I looked at some posts about these mufflers. I did not have my Z very long before I took it apart. Which way do these mufflers go.... inlet/outlet? I had an old stock muffler on it and I do not remember the set-up. Is the inlet in the middle and the outlet on the bottom? :paranoid: I found a pic of the stock muffler. It was round and the inlet was at the bottom and the outlet was at the top. What about the Dynomax mufflers... Do I want the outlet on top or in the middle? I am guessing I want the inlet to be in the center, correct?

Thank you for the info. I will try it. I know this is for the "Photo Gallary". Will I be able to put pics in my posts, also?

I have the pics if you will show me how to post them. I have tried on this forum and it is too difficult for those of us who are computer stupid. Why is it so easy on other forums and so difficult on this forum? I guess it is only for the brilliant computer nerds, right?

]My tub is finished with the exception of where the rotisserie was and final buffing. They guys a re leaving it on the rotisserie and trailering it to my shop. Now the hard work begins! The body/paint guy will do the fenders, doors, hatch, hood, etc, over the next month and have it ready when the car is back on it's wheels. The engine should be finished in a couple of weeks. I will put those pieces together as time allows. It will be a busy spring and summer for this old racer.

I will send you the bucks to get the correct piece. I am leaving for CA in 3 days so please send me your address. "reelsaint@comcast.net" I knew there was a reason for joining this Z site!

I am changing my 180 to a R200 Limited Slip diff. I have the correct mustache bar. The info says I need another front mount and a rear mount. The rear frame member I have is straight across. The drawing shows this piece to be curved (around the diff cover?). Anyone got a pic of this part and the front mount? I need to know what to look for and what to ask for. Thanks!

Thank you Phred. I do remember breaking a piston at Sears Point. I was trying to get all the way down the hill in 4th gear. I remember it started to rattle and I shut her down. Then you guys built the killer dual 4 bbl engine. That thing would rev to 9,000 when I needed it. Those were the days....

I am building a 280 engine. How much clearance do I need in the piston for the wrist pins? (I have floated the rod/wristpins) One piston seems really tight with the wrist pin clearance being marginal. Will I need to relieve that piston so it is like the others? Or, as long as it pushes into the piston will it be OK?

I had the doors, hood, rear hatch, engine compartment, wheel wells, etc. blasted with these shells. It takes the paint and eveything else off. (It does not remove rust) It is ready to paint because there is no abrasive action. The metal is very smooth and ready to prep. The painter loves these shells! He recommended the place and the pieces came out looking like new. I sand blasted the few spots that had surface rust on them. No rust in my Z! Yeah, baby!

I need to know what Datsun/Nissan calls their flat steel strips that reinforce the oil pan against the block. I cannot find anything about them in the manual. Looking for the technical name for these steel strips.

I am liking the 30# torgue for the 8mm bolts. I will use the stretch factor to make certain we have sufficient torgue. Thanks guys!

I just purchased a set of 8mm 240 rods for my new engine. The rods have been lightened and have had ARP bolts installed. What is the proper torque for these rod bolts? They are 8mm.

Thanks for the cam specs. I did not see any cam that has the lower lift and 260` duration. This must be a very mild cam. Ouch!

I have the later mustache bar which allows the diff to move rearward. I am hoping the driveshaft will work. I just had it powder coated and put new u-joints in it. I will weld the gearshift rod to give me the extra clearance. I am hoping the D/S works!