ZSaint

No one has this Web cam or something similar????

When I first started autocrossing many, many years ago, I had a MGA. It had friction shocks on it. I took them out and drained the thin oil out of them and put in STP. It did not work as it would chatter over bumps and I would lift wheels all of the time. The shocks simply no longer worked. I once again changed the oil to 10wt and they worked very well. They were considerably stiffer than the original shock 'valving' and were satisifactory for my needs. I tell this story to remind people that changing from light/5wt oil to 30wt oil is a tremenduous change in viscousity. Be careful with these changes... a lot of bad things happen (to the shock valving) when they are too stiff.

I have been reading some posts about the difference between older and newer Z diff and tranny positions. I understand that my early (2-71) Z has the diff mounted a bit shorter (2 cm) than the later Z's. No one at the shop has talked about changing the driveshaft or the center console mods. I have a 83 Maxima long O/D 5-speed and a R-200 L/S with the stock '71 drive shaft all ready to install. Will I have problems getting this combo to work in a '71 Z?

Most bearings can be found at a bearing shop. They will mic the inside and outside and the thickness and match it up to their stock. It will be a lot cheaper than getting it from Nissan. Most bearings are metric sized and unless it is a very weird application they will have (or can order) the bearing.

Wow! I do not know the answer to your question. If the "oil" is gone then the only factor that will cause the shaft to not run free must be the bearing. I am guessing you need another clutch. Why do you not want the fan clutch to kick in when it is hot? The viscous fan does not turn with the rpm's of the engine when you rev the engine. That is how it saves HP. It does turn when you are running a steady rate. It will not run 7K when you turn 7K. I am not certain what you are doing by having the fan, "freewheel". Why not just remove the fan?

I think it has to do with the "pull of the moon". 'Down there' is a looong way to go and the dyno's are upside down. That why they do not work as well. I remember coming home from Sidney and it took 14 1/2 hours. I would love to be in a racecar for 14 hours but never again in an airplane. GAWD it is a long trip! It is a lovely place, however, and the ride was worth it. G'Day

When you said "glasspack" do you mean that is all you are running? I am planning to run a turbo muffler only on the back w/o any other muffler. I do not want a lot of noise. I had dual 3" pipes with 4" megaphones on the racecar back in the 80's. It was LOUD! I want a subtle sound that lets the engine breathe while producing that famous 6-cylinder sound. Tell us more about your system. (headers et al)

The fan clutch assembly is a viscous coupling. It has mineral oil or some such fluid in it. As it get warmer, it tightens ups and cools your rad. You will never find a clutch assy that is 'freewheeling'. If you do, it will not cool. This fluid has leaked out of it. I have seen dyno results on SB engines where this clutch assy fan will gain 2-3% horsepower. They do work!

Just got my P90A head with big valves, ported intake and exhaust and a new WEB Cam kit, with grind #91. It has .450 " lift both intake and exhaust, the duration is 260` and the lobe centers are intake 106`, exhaust 111`. I know we used to run .620 lift and 310` duration on our racing 2.8's but then that was real racing and this is a street engine. Has anyone used this #91 Web grind? What are it's charactoristics? I know the hydraulic lifters do not like a lot of lift. What rpm's will this camshaft work... 6,500? More? Less? The engine will be a balanced and blueprinted 2995cc with 9.3 cr, SU's and 6-3-1 header on it. It will be run in a restored '71 Z with a 5-speed and 3.90 L/S. I am just looking for some help with this WEB camshaft.

I was a just a lad of 31 when my Z was built in 2-71. I am pleased to be able to punch the 50+ button. Gawd, that sounds young to me. I wish I was 50 again... Actually, I do not. I would be working and not having the time of my life. I retired at age 58 and have been retired for going on 7 years. I am working too darn hard on this Z restoration. I told my wife I needed to get a job so I could relax a bit. I polished parts and nuts and bolts for the platers yesterday for nearly 12 hours. The guys were going up to the platers today and I needed to get the parts prepped. I could use a good union for retired guys. I guess that is one way to stay young... work yourself to death!

I bought mine of ebay. Guy had lots of pics. Flew to CA to drive it home.Car drove and looked great. NO rust and all original. I purchased it and took off for Oregon. When I went to fill it up before hitting the freeway, gas started to leak out of the filler tube. I drove it with gas fumes for about 2 hours before it stopped leaking. After that I only filled it to the 2/3 mark. NO more LEAKS. I wondered why he had not filled the tank. DUH! That was the only problem with the exception of NO brake lights and NO license plates. Made it home w/o being stopped.

I think it is at $12 for a reconditioned balancer. It has 2 or 3 ramps on it. It is in excellent shape. Might be able to steal it in ebay!