ZSaint

We just went through this with my '71. We do not have the switch like the 280 does. My 3-way switch is very simple. I took it apart and it will last forever. My system does have some resistors in the fan housing (cools them) to cause the fan have 3 speeds. What we found was a short in the power system. We disconnected the red wire (wire for the rear defogger) and the blower works. It sounds like you need to replace your switch. Tomohawk is giving you good info. Sounds like a trip to the yard will solve your problem.

I just put the s/wheel back on yesterday. I put some 'sylglide' on the brass ring. It is all tight and lubed. It should last for another 35 years! It is amazing how the horns start working better and better. They actually sound like a Datsun, now. At first, they were very weak and had no volume. After being honked several times, they "healed" themselves!

GNOSEZ had the correct item listed as #4. I just re-read all of these posts and Gnosez had it right on his list. Well thought out post. I hope everyone who has horn problems will read these posts. I believe we covered this problem and will be able to help most people.

I have the defogger switch plugged into the correct connector. Here is the problem... When I plug the console switch into the wiring harness, the small red wire that goes from the connector to the bayonnete connector is grounded. This means the blower switch will also be grounded and burn out the fuze. If I disconnect the red wire, the blower switch works great. What do I have here? Why is the red wire grounded?

Painters hate media/sand blasting. No matter what they do, sand will still get into the paint at some time. You simply cannot get rid of it, everywhere. We had a 450SL dipped to get rid of the paint, filler, rubber, rust, etc. It was the cleanest car I have ever worked on. The only problem is rust. This was a racecar so we did not worry about rust in the distant future. I guess there are downsides to every option when it comes body prep.

Courtesy Nissan can get them for you. (They do not stock these bolts) They are $.85@. If you get 20 they will cost you $17 + 8.95 shipping = $25.95

I will try and see if this works. I have XP. I did not know I had this capability. I will check it out! Thanks.

I will check out the wiring on Monday. I believe you guys have solved my problem. XRay: What program are you using for the pic with the inserts? I would like to be able to do this with my pics. Software? Download? Remember, I am an old guy and learned computers by the trial and error method. So be gentle!!!

OK. I will go to my "Salem Screw" supply house and see if they have these 08360-61212 Screw-Machine bolts. If Nissan has them, we can go to the supplier. What does a package of 10 cost? $5? $10?

Black, Red and Green w/red tracer. Is this correct?

Here's what I did... I bought a larger sandblaster at Harbour Freight. I think I paid $100 for it on a special discount. I bought cheap sand and that was a MISTAKE. It kept plugging up. I had to filter the sand with a screen several times to get only the small particles. Trust me, if I were doing it now I would have bought expensive sand just for sandblasting. Once I got the sand filtered the blaster worked and did not work. I got the job done but it was a hassle. GET THE RIGHT SAND!

I assume my switch is lighted. It is "orange" and appears to have a light in it. Jackboxx I do have the single switch in the console just like yours. I have the 3 wire(s) in the black casing running up the left side of the console with the choke cables. It runs up under the dash. We had a "grounded" red wire that fed the blower switch. We unplugged the small lead that goes into the fuze box and it was no longer grounded. The 3-way switch now works. Could that connector that we unplugged have been for the defogger? I just need to know the colors of the wires that feed into the defogger switch. (female connector?) I have solved the horn dilemma. I have fixed the radio and antennae wiring. The blower now works. All I have left is the connector for the defogger. You guys are really close. Just give me the wire colors. I think I had the wrong plug plugged into the defogger connector. Maybe it was an extra that should not have been plugged in. What do you think?

I am confused. What wires come from your defogger switch? What are the colors of the connector wires that it plugs in to?

Steve: Is your "defroster" plug for your rear defogger? What color are the wires going into the switch (in the console)? This is what I need!!!

XRay and others... I have found the short in the heater fan. It now is working. I cannot find the connector for the R/Window defogger. Looking at your pic, it looks like the connector below the heater connector is like the one I need. I have the console switch but cannot find the connector. Anyone know which connector is one is?

If I can get my "small buddy" to get under the dash with his head, he may be able to match up the missing wires. We will be doing it tomorrow. Wish us well!

Preith: I guess you will never know what difference the torque plate would have made. If you are racin' you need every 1/10th HP you can get, IMHO. Most people just bore and hone their L6 blocks and go about their business. 240ZX said it correctly. We saw a chance to gain a bit and we took it... Glad we did! As long as we are all having fun, that's all that matters.

My build date is 2/71. It is a standard '71 MK 1, I believe. I need to look for a single connection?

For normal street driving, boring w/o a torque plate is fine. However, if you want to maximize your power, you need a torque plate. I had one built back in the late 70's. We got leakdown results in the 99% range with total seal rings. Round is round! I went back to the engine builder's shop and my plate was still there in 2005. Everett Hatch has passed on but the new owners still had and used the torque plate. I had my F54 block bored and honed at this shop. (Along with balancing, lightening, headwork, etc) It was kinda like going back in history having this Z engine built by the same shop that used to build my race engines. But I digress...!

I have copied this schematic. I cannot find the female connector for the defogger? It is a flat 2-prong connector. It has to be in the middle of the dash.

I hope this info is stored in the "search" mode. People need to start with the simple things to fix their horns.

I have 2 problems to solve. I need a rear defogger and the heater switch to "plug" in. I found out the defogger wire coming out of the console is not hooked up. Where do I look to find the 3-wire connector? I apparently did not plug in the heater switch. Where do I look for the connector? If anyone has done a dash or has one apart, can you please give me some help with this wiring? All I need is to find the connectors and plug them in. I have a "small guy" coming to help me on Friday. I am hoping I can tell him where to look. OK, guys??

I went thru the drill to find out why the horn did not work, I tested each horn and they both worked. (Kinda weak at first... Not blown for several years!) I then got down and tested the horn relay. I got the horn to work. I then tested the horn button. I grounded the wire but no horn. I removed the steering wheel and tested the brass paddle tensioner. Horn worked. I stretched the brass paddle "spring" to add tension... Still no horn. I then took the horn assy apart thinking the black wire had come apart. It was all intact. Hmmm??? I then started to look at the ring around the back of the hub. I could not see any marks from the brass paddle tensioner. I looked at the adjustment and the spring 'moved'. Aha! I then moved the tensioner a bit wider and the horn started working instantly. I tightened the spring paddle tensioner (tiny phillips screw) so it would not move (again). Who would have thought that the horn did not work because the brass tensioner had gotten loose and moved off the circular pad that it makes contact with (when the wheel is turned). It apparently was on the plastic piece that separates the horn ring from the wheel hub. I bet this is one for the books!

Here is one I took before he put the set-up on the Z. It looks a lot nicer after he polished and plated everything. Someone must have taken some good pics. How about it?

Hawk: I know that our suppliers have a full complement of metric bolts of most kinds. I do not know if they have the phillips headed hex bolts like we use on the Z. They will look in their books and see. If they do not have them, they can order them. I found that after getting the right bolts and having them plated, they really stick out when the hood is down. I guess that is why Datsun painted them! They don't show!