ZSaint

Just make certain you have a matched set of clutch arm and T/O bearing collar. They recommend the 280Z set-up for the CFII. If you can dummy up the tranny on your engine and try it before you hook up the exhaust, etc., it will help. Good luck.

Please note Phred's post. I cannot stress this fact that you need to balance the flywheel/PP combo. I believe you must also remove the "weights" from the PP in order to correctly balance the Centerforce II clutch. The picture of the T/O bearings is not correctly coded. What is important is the distance from the face of the T/O bearing to the thrust side of the fork collar. This is the only measurement that matters. I would use the shortest T/O bearing collar you can find with this clutch. I barely had any freethrow in my pedal with my new Centerforce II clutch. After I ran it and got the fuzzy stuff on the disc, it works just fine. I has about 1 1/2" of freethrow! My Centerforce II clutch unit works very well in my '71 240Z.

Note the slot that was retained in the finished hybrid adjuster

Here is a pic of the finished hybrid adjuster. Note the slot left in the adjuster.

OK! 1) Take you hydraulic (hyd) lifters apart. (wire brush the bases) All you need are these hyd bases. 2) Cut the top off the hyd base. Leave 50% of the nut height. (That's all you need to screw the base into the head) I used a cutoff wheel to cut the excess off and then machined them all the same depth. (see pic at the end of this post) 3) Clean up your set of solid adjusters. (wire brush them) 4) Place the solid adjuster in your lathe. Turn the threads down until it slides into the hyd base. (Where the hyd piston used to be) 5) Turn the base nut down and leave the "slot" for the triangular retaining clip. You must keep this slot for the clip to go into. You can machine the nut down to just .020 of a lip. This will slide onto the top of the hyd base. Leave an upper lip above the slot about .050 high and .050 thick. (see attached pic of this slot) I have a pic of the first one we did. It DID NOT HAVE THIS SLOT . Please look carfully at the pic. The finished solid hybrid adjuster is correctly done 6) Put the adjuster screws and nuts into the machined solid base to make certain the threads are clear. If you have any problems, run a tap through them. 7) I cleaned the hyd base interior with some scratch-all material. It must be clean to have the silver solder adhere to the metal. I cleaned all parts with brake clean. 8) Place the hyd base in a vise. Slide the machined solid adjuster into the hyd base. Heat the unit and place your flux (pull the adjuster out a ways) on both surfaces. Dab on the silver solder until it adheres. Twist the adjuster around a bit to spread the solder and gently tap the the adjuster down into the base. 9) Let it cool and it is ready to install into you P90A head. (I installed the base with a socket to make certain they were tight. 10) Turn the adjuster down to make certain you have clearance to install the rockers. 11) Install the retainer clips 12) Screw the adjusters into the base 13) Install the rocker arms and mouse springs 14) Adjust your solid adjusters. You now have a P90 head!

A buddy of mine is a auto painter. Whenever he is doing a clear coat, I always take a few things in for a couple of coats. He did my fuel tank, my lower engine shield and my brake booster. Makes them look like new!

I think you've got it. My 2/71 starts at "0". Funny how they changed this stuff. Wonder why?

Here are a couple of pics of the shroud I restored for my '71. After I received the 4-row rad, I realized it would not fit. I bought another one but it did not have the bottom piece with it. I still think I need one for summer traffic.

I'll PM you!

Here is a pic of my 240Z shroud. Will the bottom fit this shroud?

The guys at the shops use liquid teflon. Tape is no longer voque. I used up a couple of camshafts with teflon tape. I got a small piece in the spray bar and it shut off the oil supply to the cam. Ouch. After changing 2 cams, I figured it out. I changed spray bars and all is well. Life can be cruel, at times.

I think powder coating is the way to go. I painted mine black. I had the original hinges painted the body color but they were worn out. I decided to paint the new ones black. They look good and hide. I think plating them would make them stand out. Ugly!!

I used the N36 manifolds for my 3.0. I was told the same info about the manifolds. I have not seen anyone do a dyno test to see if these manifold flow better. They look better and seem to have more flow but no one will give me any dyno results to show they are better. I guess we will continue to believe that they are better.

Check out Harbour Freight. If they have this it will cost you a lot less than $55. If you were going to change ball joints 6 times a week, get the $55. I you are going to change ball joints 6 times in your life time, go to Harbour Freight.

Best bet... Take it to an auto electric shop and have them check it out. You may have fried the wire harness, too. They can check it out and give you a reliable answer.

Here are some pics of what a person needs to do in order to convert the hydraulic lifters over to a hybrid solid adjuster. I just completed this P90A head conversion. My solid cam works great!

Here is the pic of the Orange 240Z

Well, it will be strong. But you could have made it lighter and it would have been just as strong. For instance, having the X frame behind the driver. One diagonal bar would have stiffened the bar and car. The other brace is superfulous. The X that goes to the rear of the car is of no purpose. There is nothing back there to attach to. Sheet metal just does not need to be stregthened for safety sake. I guess if you race at Daytona and go 200 mph, it will be a great cage! Consider your driver to be safe from everything except fire.

I guess I thought this guy needed more info then "the cam lobes must be up". If the head is off, then he needs to know about the 'V' mark in the cam and the mark on the front cam retainer. I hope he also marked his chain on #2or#3 mark before he removed the sprocket. He may be past all of this and will need some help putting the head back on and getting the cam timing correct. Maybe he will come back with more info.

Holy smokes boys... This guy asked for help and he got all kinds of answers. I am not an expert but I have changed 50 cams in my lifetime, all Datsuns. I just remember to make certain the #1 cylinder is at TDC (cam lobes up) and the timing mark at "TDC" on the front pulley. If you are 180 degress out, the cam lobes will be down. (Look at #6 when you have it on TDC... Cam lobes are down) REMINDER: Don't forget to put a chain tensioner device in place.

I changed the clamp and now we will see if that is really the cause. I did find one small nick in the boot. I also siliconed that up. We will see. Thanks for your help. Nice S/S tie wraps!

I installed a set of CV axles on my '71 along with a R200 L/S. I was checking the tranny fluid and noticed grease building up on my LHS above the axle. I checked it out and it seems to be leaking from around the stainless steel clamp. There is no hole. Just seeping out from the seal around the clamp. Can I get a new clamp for this axle? I thought about just getting a hose clamp but they are a bit too wide. Do they make narrower clamps for these CV's? Where do I go? Parts houses or ????

Interesting ground effects on both sides of the rear tire. I wonder if these tunnels work?

I rented a two-car shop and hung all of the pieces on the wall. It looked like a scrap yard!