ZSaint

I agree with is post. I have worked on American-made late 60's to early 70's Mopars. I have also worked on Datsuns. I have done restorations on both marques. I cannot believe the difference between a Datsun and a Plymouth or Dodge in the same era. Datsun has so many engineering advantages over the USA-made vehicles. For instance, the E-brake assembly. Datsun worked very hard to make certain this E-brake did not rattle, transfer vibration, or wear out. They used a nylon bushing on the handle fulcrum to keep it from being noisey. Chrysler just used metal on metal. I could not believe the modern techniques used by the Datsun engineers. It took Chrysler a long time to catch up. They are still catching up to the Japanese! I do not believe these designs came form "Prince" people. I think they were Nissan people. Maybe they did not have the engine capabilities but they knew how to build cars!

Notice the wiring 'hanginging down' on the passengers side? I would look at some serious wiring problems with this car. Someone has tried to work on it. Probably gave up!

I have a 1" piece of 3/16 steel with a hole in one end and pointed on the other. I use it for taking the bolts out and torquing them back on. (use it on on the left side for removeal and the right side for torque) I just put a tranny mount bolt through the hole and stick the pointing end into the ring gear. I have a thick washer under the strap to get it lined up properly. I have had this mechanism for 30 years and it works great every time. (KISS) It also works for removing & torquing the front balancer on the crank.

I have a 280Z engine with an E31 head on it. The head has the big 280Z valves. It has a light Maxima flywheel. I am thinking about rebuilding it. I will hone it, put in new rings and bearings and seals. I will true-up/surface the head and have a trick valve grind done on it. It will have new valve seals of course. I will bead blast the bare head and paint the block/pan. What is a long-block worth in today's market? Is it worth it to me to spend the time and money to freshen up this motor? What is it worth if I install a distributor, a new set of ZTherapy SU's and a set of headers?

"Option 2: Use an L26 block and bore it out to stock L28 size and reuse existing pistons. This was recommended to me by a local Z specialist. I can get an L26 block from him for $100." What does "reuse existing pistons" mean? You have a set of these 280 pistons so all you need to do is bore out the 260 block? Or?? I think you should keep you own block and have it bored. You can get replacement pistons cheap. Why buy another block and worry about that. Just bore your block out .060 and go for it!

I am pleased that someone needs a set of 240Z euro lenses. I applaud TIR for making them available. I cannot understand why anyone with a standard 240Z would ever use these lenses. I cannot understand why anyone would put these "type" small taillights that look patheticallly "home built" on a car that has a beautifully moulded taillight lense. (Honda, Toyota, Nissan, etc.) Kids do the damdest things!:disappoin

Yes! The crank scraper is only held on by the main bolts. I ordered this scraper for the LD28 crank but it had to be fitted to the "throws". I also use the aluminum pan with a nice set of oil gates.

I have a 2995cc engine in my '71. It has the LD28 crank, 240Z rods and Z22S pistons. The machinist had to maching the top of the piston because it sat above the block. I have a P90A head and have a compression ratio of 9.0:1. I am presently running ZTherapy SU's with a stock turbo camshaft. I just received a .480 lift/268` duration hydraulic camshaft for it. I will see how it performs with the new cam. I have plans for getting a bit more flow into the head. It now has a LOT of torque and spins very well to 6500. The short block was built by Hatch Engine Service. They also ported the P90A head/intake manifold and did a trick valve grind. I am very pleased with the performance of this engine.

Better be careful with this "bolt into the caliper" trick. I an not certain the threaded hole is not a pipe thread or has a seat built into it. Stick with the air pressure and don't mess with the threads is my advice. (IMHO)

BoostedZ: Hey, I live for my Social Security. I buy all of my toys with S/S money. Every month I get the $1011 check deposited into my account and I SPEND it on my cars. I lived a long time and paid the GOV for my S/S checks. Now that I am old enough to get 'em, I cannot wait to spend the money. I am currently broke because I spent December's check on a golf trip to St. George, Utah. We will be gone for 11 days in April. WhooHah! I am having a 3-carb-SU unit built by ZTherapy and it will take all of Jan and Feb! It's kinda fun having another check to spend each month. Mine, all Mine!

I know the RB260 is a twin cam... Will you be using Solexes or will it be injected?

What head will you be using? Carburetion? Induction?

I think polishing them by hand is long, hard work. These Panansport Wheels have a machined surface. They need to be turned and sanded and polished and painted. If you polish them and do not seal them, you will have to do it over and over again. When you are 25, no problem. When you are 65, big problem! I will ask around in Salem. I will check with the tire/wheel guys.

You mean work on the wheels? DIY? I want them done professionally and sealed with clear. I have access to a lathe and the time but no interest. I did the polishing of my aluminum and magnesium wheels for 20 years when I raced. I do not feel the need anymore to DIY wheel polishing. It takes too long to get the 'black' out from under my nails! Heh, heh!

Amen on the crushed finger. I put my hand inside the caliper and applied the air. BANG! I had 2 sore fingers for a week. They turned black and blue. I think a block of wood will work just as well. When they come out, watch out. They fire just like a gun. Yeah baby!

Here is the wheel(s) that I want polished.

I have a set of new Panasport Wheels that I want to have polished. Who does this polishing? I just need the lip polished. How much do they charge?

In cold weather your tranny fluid becomes almost solid. When you let the clutch out, it turns the input shaft in the transmission and slows the engine down. It will also start to move the gears in the transmission hydraulically. I had a BMW 3.0 in St. Louis and the only way I could start the car was in neutral with the clutch IN. It would die when I let the clutch out in NEUTRAL. I had to warm everything up before I tried to put it in gear. I changed to synthetic tranny fluid and it stopped doing this. 90# oil at 20 degrees is very difficult to stir! I would try putting synthetic oil in your tranny. I think this will solve your problem. Let us know!

I too noticed the "gap" on the bushing mount. Did you use the stock brackets? The delron bushings do not 'crush' so they will not mount correctly with the stock brackets. If you put a SPACER under the bracket to keep the bushing in place, it will work just fine. Maybe a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" aluminum with a hole in it would work just fine. If you leave it the way it is, it will crush or crack the bushing and the sway bar will loosen up. Check it out!

Here is what my Motorsports sway bar looks like installed. Very similar in size and construction. The Z's arms are a bit shorter so it will be a stiffer ratio.

How are you putting the frame together? Do you have a stock car to measure? A jig? How did you know where to mount the stress rod receivers? In case you have forgotten how it goes together, here it is!