ZSaint

I am doing what I feel is appropriate for the car in todays world. Why have a 4 speed with a direct 4th gear doing 3900 rpm at 75 MPH? I went with the long O/D 5-speed and installed a 3.9 L/S. Purists will go nuts when you "modify" a stock 240Z. But, it is what the car needed when it was new. 280Z had that option, eventually. I decided to run a rear and front spoiler just because it reminds me of the old days... When Z's were supposed to look that way. I like the L6 engine and have stroked it and bored an F54 block to 2995 cc. It runs Z Therapy SU's and the engine appears stock. (It would have been cheaper to put a V6 in her!) I think we all want what is best for our particular needs. Every time I see a kid with ground effects on his Civic, I just shake my head. I guess people do the same with me and my blue Z. Boys, you do what you have to do asking no questions!

I do not understand. The stock LHS mirror has an offset base. It would look funny on the right side. Is there something I do not understand?

Anyone know a source for passenger side mirrors? 70-71 stock mirror? I know they make them because one of the guys here has one on his 70 Z. I would think they would be available in Japan. Anyone have a source or webpage for these mirrors?

This situation reminds me of my rear suspension rebuild. I put the new seals and bearings in and torqued the nuts. One of them turned freely and the other was bound up. I thought about it and then checked the workbench... Bingo! There was the inner spacer still on the bench. Ouch! I took it apart and re-installed the spacer and guess what, no more friction. I guess you just cannot put these things together w/o double checking EVERYTHING! Funny things happen when you get tired. (Glad I checked the freeplay!)

Read my first post. It did not go through the first time, at first!

Gawd... I remember when Phred was just learning about L6 engines. I built the first torque plate for the L6 in 1977 and it is still at Hatch's Engine Service!! He built a couple for me and they were pretty good. We had a limit of 7600-7800 in those days because of the harmonics in the L28 crankshaft. The large diameter dampner was the answer. Prior to Datsun Comp providing that baby, 7200 was the max before the flywheel fell off! Ol' Phred has learned a lot over the years, yes he has!! I think I paid for most of his education, however!

I havd had a bit of experience in 'lightening' Datsun rockers. I think there are some pics in the Datsun "How to Hot Rod..." book. You want the weight as light as possible without creating a weak link. Stress relieving the rockers by lightening, polishing and shot peening is the way to go. I have never heard of anyone 'drilling' a rocker arm assembly. Sounds like creating a weak point to me!

I just went through my suspension and put all new pieces on my 2/71 Z. I found that Spicer makes a ball joint that is smooth on the lower (ground) side vs. the Datsun ball joint that has a spring in it. I went with the Spicer joint because of a 'cleaner' look. It sorta looks like the steering rod ends. Did I make a mistake?

I noticed some scratches in the driver's side glass. I took some Brasso and did a little hand polishing. I cleared up the dull parts quite nicely. I got it down to the one deep scratch and you hardly notice it anymore. I lubed and restored the mechanism so 'no more scratch' on my window!

I had some scratches on the drivers side window. (I rebuilt the mechanism) I took some Brasso and a polishing wheel and it nearly removed the scratch! Glass will polish out if you have the time and energy. Brasso is neat stuff!

I have printed out your posts for my records. I am not quite ready to do the brakes. I just rebuilt the 5-speed and the engine block is finally done at the engine shop. I will pick it up today. Once I get the engine dialed in and installed, I will start on the brakes. Your info is invaluable. Where were we 25 years ago? We were finding this info out all by ourselves. How things have changed!

The manual says 4 1/4 pints or a little more than 2 quarts. (2 liters!)

I could not locate any shock proof Redline products. I just went with the ol' Redline lube. It will be good enough for this old racer!

Alright... I put 2 quarts of Redline in my rebuilt tranny. Thanks for the info guys. I look forward to many miles of carefree driving (when it isn't raining!)

I have a Centerforce II clutch assy. I will need a 280 collar? Is it deeper or shallower?

I just went through the same drill. I cleaned up the driver's side taillight and it looks like new. I did find some chrome paint and painted the inside of the lights. I also painted the marker lights which were also dirty and rusty. I covered the chrome paint with clear. Looks pretty good if I have to say so myself!

I have a 240 flywheel, arm, t/o bearing, clutch slave cylinder and I am putting in a Centerforce P/P and disc. Will this set up work?

I know that racetires loose their 'grip' after setting over the winter. It has to do with the rubber hardness. I had a set of Goodyear 'no-flat' gatorback tires on a car that basically sat around under a cover. They were 5 years old and had less than 8,000 miles on them. They lost their "stick". I changed to a TOYO tire and what a difference it made. (I guess all you have to do is ask Ryan Newman about old vs. new tires.) It is the cycling of the heat that gets 'em. I think a heavy SUV might tend to harden a tire in no time!

I just rebuilt my newly acquired '83 5-speed. (What a job!) I have new bearings, syncros, and seals. I am wondering if I can use RedLine Oil in the tranny? What about the brass/bronze sycros? Will this oil be too slick for the sycromesh? I put RedLine in the R200 L/S but I am looking for advice on the tranny. I will be driving it on the street. No racing for me and my baby. I might pick up a rock chip!!!!!!!

I am still a few weeks from getting the engine finished. I still do not have S/S brake lines installed. I will use this info when I start bleeding the brakes. It sounds like there will be a problem. (I am using the stock booster, FYI.)

Thanks for the detailed info on the buttons. I will pass this info on to the machinist. I think we will be in business. Old tech still works wonders!

I called Nissan and they no longer have the teflon buttons. We will manufacture a set out of aluminum. Thanks for the info. If this were a true racing engine, I would have gotten a set of shorter pins and had the grooves machined into the pistons. I am just going to run this baby on the street so buttons it is!

Most people around here use a turbo muffler. You can put a chrome extension on it that looks stock. You can pay anywhere from 14.99 to 99.99 for a turbo muffler. I think the Borla (99.99) is the best and makes a deep, quiet sound. I am going to buy one soon. I am looking for quality sound. I do not want a LOUD muffler, either. A friend just took a Dynomax off his car to go to Motorsports and installed a Borla. Made for a nice, quiet trip!

Looking for the phone number of Nissan Motorsports... I am in need of a set of teflon w/pin buttons for my L6 engine. I need to call these guys to see if they have any lying around. I know this is old tech stuff but it will work on my engine. I am putting Z22S pistons and they use a press fit pin. I have the rods already sized and they are floated. I need a set of wrist pin buttons to put the bottom end together. Anyone know where I can order a set of these buttons? Links? Web page? Phone numbers? __________________

I just put weather seals on my '71 Z hatch. I removed the hatch and took the old seal out. After cleaning the surfaces, I put the new weatherstripping in place. It was a piece of cake W/O the hatch in place. I took the hatch off by myself to have the car painted. It was a b$@+h! Get some help. I had my lovely wife help me put it back on with new paint on the car. No scratches!