ZSaint

We had a "meth high guy" jump on the back of a wrecker and took a ride on the freeway. The wrecker driver was afraid to stop. The guy was waving a tire iron at the driver and yelling gibberish. When the driver saw a State Patrolman, he had him follow the wrecker into a rest stop. They said they never understood what the guy was doing or wanted. DUH! He was totally stoned.

After cleaning, lubing and installing the lock mechanisms and linkage, I understand why the Z is so easy to 'slim jim'. It takes about 30 seconds to grab the lever and unlock the door. I think it is kinda like the boys that drive convertibles: DON'T LOCK YOUR CAR! If someone wants in your Z, they will not have any trouble. I guess you keep in in the garage or don't put anything in it that anyone wants. Meth Freaks are everywhere!

These Zguys are ingenious. What a great idea!

You make a very good point about the wiper motor. I will definetely turn the wipers on and off before installing the wiper blades. I did that on another restoration I did in 2002. I turned the wipers on and they wiped the cowl and hood. It scared the heck out of me when it went the wrong way. No paint damage but it was touch and go! I will take the Z off the rotisserie, soon. I am waiting for some help in getting in on the ground. I have a portable floor lift that we will use but we have to balance it very carefully in order to take the rotisserie off and out of the shop. I am trying to put the windows and lock brackets in the doors. I have not done one of these for over 20 years. I read "the book" and the guys does not give me a sequence for putting the door together. I guess I will search this forum for advice. If I cannot find the info, I will check with the boys.

Thanks for the info on the white wire (black heat-shrink). I will look for the matching female wire. I had the shell turned up on it's side when I put the dash in. I think the wire got caught up in the "mess". Now that I know there is a connecting wire, I will look for it. Thanks! Well boys, I tried to put the damn thing in with it all attached and it was banging into the new paint and a PIYA. I took the linkage off, installed the wiper trannies and bolted the motor in place. Maybe I just don't "get it" but it is in and I did not scratch the paint. I turned the car on it's side to do all of this and it worked swell, no matter how dumb is sounds to those master Z mechanics.

Wow, someone did it right. (marking everything) It was easy to take apart. I had a Z-Guy come by and help me with the dash and steering column. He said everthing just "snaps" back into place and yanks all of the wiring plugs apart. See how easy that was? Now, I am alone and putting it all back together. Hmmm... Lets see... How do I know which plug goes where. Some are matches and some are not? I wish I had just taken a few pics of the wiring or taken a few more notes. Point of Concern: I put the heater, blower and the steering column in and was very proud of my work. After finding the steering shaft I realized my error. I had to have the column out or loose in order to stick the shaft up the column. It goes a lot quicker the second time around. Why did'nt the great 'book' say something about that. It does'nt even tell you to disassemble the wiper motor from the linkage before taking it out or putting it back in. That guy was not a very good communicator, period! If you take the cover off your fuse panel and look at the pigtail on the left upper corner, you will see this short pigtail. Is this a spare for my car?

BK240: The production date is 2/71. It is a 4-speed w/o A/C. I have one bullet male wire that is about 4-5" long coming out of the fuse box on the left hand side. I do not know what this single (black) wire is for. I cannot find any female wire to plug this bullet into. What is this? Do I need to look for a wire or is it just a wire that is not used?

Thank you for the wiring diagram. I think it will help me out if I can just match everything up by color code.

I bought my '71 in Salinas, California and drove it back to Salem, Oregon. I did not have brake lights or a license plate. I drove all the way back and did not get stopped. I cannot believe that I traveled that far without getting pulled over. I have not fixed the problem so I am watching this thread with interest. I have totally disassembled the car, painted the shell and I am now putting it all back together. I will see if the brake lights work when I am finished. If not, I will try the same stuff that were recommended on this thread. Thanks in advance!

I have just installed the heater, blower assy, the dash, pedals and steering column. I am now putting in the console. I have plugged everything back in except for one pigtail coming out of the fuse box. It is a very short pigtail about 4" long coming out of the left(driver) side of the box. Cannot find a female connector for this male pigtail. What is this? Have I just lost a wire in the maze? Or, ?????? I originally thought it was for the lighter but I have the lighter hooked up and nothing is close to fitting this short wire. Anyone got any ideas on what this wire is for?

7/8 works on it!

I think the Datsun flasher is very simple and inexpensive. I remember having a 82 Honda that needed a flasher. I go into the Honda dealer and ask for a flasher. He returns and I go to pay the bill and the lady says, "$36.90". I say "WHAT? How can a Honda flasher be so much money?" I go back to the parts guy and he tells me it is a computer. A COMPUTER! "I say thank you but no thanks!" I go out to the 'yard' and find one and pay $4 for it. The yards people do not know these things are computers, thank you lord! Let hear it for the old cheap Datsun flasher!

Thanks for this info. I will try it and see how it works. I am guessing the pedal ratio is fairly substantial so 1/4" will make a couple of inches in stroke difference. Maybe it will sort itself out with the new M/C.

I am installing 4-wheel disc brakes and a ZX 15/16 M/C. I have done the brake line switch, F/R. Here is my concern... I am concerned that the rod receiver hole is 1/4" deeper in the master cylinder than my stock 7/8" M/C. Has anyone done this switch and had problems with this additional rod length? Do I need a longer rod out of the booster to make up the difference in the depth of the rod in the M/C? I have a different booster rod from a ZX. Can I use that rod with my later model M/C and the '71 240 booster? I have done the search but no one speaks about this particular problem.

It sounds like you have a M/C that is reversed. I bought a 15/16 M/C and it was reversed. I installed the lines and then I saw a post about the 70-71 Z's being different than the newer Z's. I was surprised that Datsun would make this change. Check it out to make certain the front cylinder is actually breaking the front system. I have not driven my car with the brakes lines reversed so I cannot tell you what happens. I think you will not have sufficient fluid movement to make you front brakes lock up. IMHO!

How much (USD) is 3.3 million yen? :surprised

I wonder why they designed these MC differently? Anyone have an idea? It doesn't make sense to make this kind of change.

I checked and you are correct. ('71 BMC converted to a 79 ZX BMC) The MC's are reversed. I will need to hook up my lines to the correct cylinder outlet. Thank you for this info.

I looked at this page and I have this info on file. (That is why I shortened the outer flanges) I was just looking for an easy way to put these CV axles in the car. I guess I will just go out and do it.

I put the hub in the vise and attempted to beat the arm into place. It was too tight and kept crawling around. I gave up and started to work on the passenger side. I put the other arm on the hub and it had all kinds of clearance. I drove the pin right in... no problem. I decided the hub must be too wide. I put it in the vise and used a grinder to grind off .030 on both sides. I used a polishing wheel to smoothe it up and the arm slid right on. It now has the same clearance on the passengers side and the driver side. It worked for me! Just needed a little clearance for the poly bushings. :knockedou

I have my car on the rotisserie. I have it upside down and all of the rear supspension is on. The R200 is also bolted in the car. I have shortened the outer drive flanges 3/4" each. I now have an additional 1 1/2" of travel over the stock ZXT set-up. What is the best way to install these axles? I can take the shock tower out of widen the space until the axles are bolted in. I can then insert the towers back into the 3-holes and the rear supension is done, correct? Or, is there a better way to put these axles in. I await your responses.

Wait a minute... I am putting a 15/16 BMC from a 79 ZX onto my '71 240. I hooked up the lines for my 4-wheel disk brakes. Are you telling me that this BMC is reversed? Or, are the 79's and the 71's the same?

OK, that will give me .012. It is a lot tighter then that.

I am working on this project by myself. I have new poly bushings on the lower a-arm and I am trying to get it onto the rear hub. It is too tight to get over the hub to start tapping in the double threaded bolt. It is all powder coated so I hate to use the vise. I have started it a couple of times but it needs to be driven into place. Anyone got any ideas? :devious:

Bingo! That is what the Australian L6 page gives for the compression ratio. I am hoping this is correct! Nissan had 5 pistons but had to order 1 more. I hope they are from the same 'batch' and will balance OK. We had one set of V/6 pistons where one piston was 8 grams heavier then the others. Hard to get 8 grams out of a cast piston. We had to lighten the wrist pin to get the assembly to balance. Only time will tell. I get a bit anxious about this project. My wife tells me I have all of the time in the world. Who cares if it takes a year. It keeps me off the streets! (Off the golf course and rivers, too.)