ZSaint

I am using a Felpro H/G which gives 5.7cc's (stock is 7.1cc's), the F54 block is bored .060 (87.5mm), I am using a P90A head (53.6cc's), LD28 crank (+4mm) and 240 rods. I get 499.122cc's for each cylinder. 2995 cc's is what we get for total displacement. Once I get these LZ22S pistons I will know more about our compression ration.

I got this info off an Australian ZCar web. I just looked at the pin height L24 piston has a pin height of 38.10 The LZ22S piston has a pin height of 35. Given my extra stoke, I am guessing this piston is just about right on the pin height. What do you think?

I am hoping this piston for the LZ22S engine has short rods. That is the only way a person can get a 9.4 cr with this long rod and large combustion chamber. I will see what the pin height is after the pistons arrive. EN1 know what these pistons have for a pin height?

I have a set of 240 rods. The bore is 87.5 and I have a LD 28 crank. What is my engine size?

I used the chart that allows you to "build" a L6 engine. You punch in the various options (block, rod, head, head gasket and piston) This piston is the only one that offers 9.4 cr. It must have a dome on it or uses a shorter rod. I just hope this works like the formula states.

I just installed my tank with new hoses. I do not feel they will bend or collapse. I used tranny lines and they are heavier in construction. I used a couple of plastic ties on the one at the front of the tank. It makes a pretty good turn and I put these ties on it to keep it from crimping. Maybe one of the lines will crimp. No big deal as long as it doesn't leak. These tanks have all kinds of venting. One line lost will not hurt a thing, IMHO.

I ordered the pistons from the Nissan Dealer. The cost is $57 @ plus rings. They have 5 but they have to order one. I hope it is the same piston. Some times you get a different "batch" and you cannot get them to balance.

I found the info I needed on this engine. It came in a 720 pick-up truck between 6/80 and 10/82. It was 87mm stock and came with a long rod. (S designation) These piston will work on the L6 engines with the LD28 crank. They will provide 9.4 cr with the P90 head. I am trying to order a set of +2 (87.5) pistons for my engine. I will let you know my results and what they cost.

I am looking for a set of +.5mm pistons for a "LZ22S" Nissan. What is it? A truck? Euro model? Japanese Model? Help me out here guys.

The info I have says a "LZ22S" 87mm piston will fit with 9.4 cr. What the heck is this Nissan? A truck? EN1 know what this designation is?

We always used a 16" length of 1" hose to stuff between the chains. I found a plastic-handled screw driver in an engine I purchased. It had run so long that the handle had warped from the heat but the driver part did not hit anything. I guess they were just lucky and I was lucky to find it.

I think that a piston "rocks" back and forth once it gets broken in. If it remained plum in the bore, all would be well. I remember the first 'race' engine I built was a 2.0L BMW. The 12.5 Venolia pistons came with a huge dome. I had to modify the head to get the domes to fit. I also remember the pistons hitting the head! After that, I let Phred and Hatch do all of my stuff. Pay 'em up front rather than pay for another set of new pistons! I did a lot of 'trial and error' engineering. It ended up costing me a lot of time and money. It was a nice way to learn engine building, however. I also remember building an oil pan baffle for my Tiger. It was a thing of beauty! I forgot about the crank throws... It made a heck of a noise when I started it. Oh well, I learned the hard way. Things were good in the 70's!

Thanks for the info. I will call Dave and see what he recommends and what he has.

I think the stock Nissan headgasket is thicker then the Felpro gasket. In terms of cc's... The Felpro gasket has 5.7 cc's while the Stock gasket has 7.1 cc's. The stock headgasket will provide you with additional clearance. I believe they say you need .040-.050 clearance on your piston to head clearance. Everything stretches a bit at 7,000+!

Who is a reasonable supplier of L6 pistons? I have a set of pistons that the engine builder "mocked up" and told me the pistons were at deck height. When he put it together he said the piston is down in the bore .050!!! He calculated the cr to be 9.3 and now he says it will be 8.1. It will be perfect for a turbo but I have no such plans. I do not want to spend $600 on a set of custom forged pistons. I am happy with a good cast piston. What do you guys recommend? specs: 87.5 mm bore with a 83 mm stroke = 2995 cc

Yeah, that's the ticket... Change something! (heh, heh) I don't know how I'm going to get all of these pieces back together again. Like I really need another project! Oh well, it will get done, somehow.

I believe that is why we are installing CV joints... 79 ZXT half shafts. U-joints are the weak link in the stock axles.

Your thread is not 'hot' anymore. I tried to get it but it is a "no go". I guess there is more to this conversion than people know. I think someone needs to do a tech article on the complete procedure. I have the one that I got for the dust shields. No one mentioned that the stub axle had to be shortened!

I found their web site. Got some pics of their shortened outer flanges. I have a buddy with a lathe. He can cut the flange, machine a line-up groove in both pieces, press them together and then have it welded. Presto! The axles will bolt right in.

Interesting stuff. I will check out the hybridZ site. I have the pages from the net that talk about changing the dust covers (which I have done). No one talks about the length of the axles problem. I will search the site and see what they say. I guess I can see if I can change the CV assy. to gain a little, too. I'll let you guys know what I find.

I am installing CV axles out of a 79 ZXT into my '71 240Z. I have an R200. I did the dust cover mod, cleaned and painted the axles. Now they are too long to fit into the car. I talked with another guy putting the same axles into his Z and he is having the same difficulty. He says the way to go is to machine the outer hub, cut out 1 1/2", press them flange back on and weld 'em up. I have never heard of people doing this mod. I know people install these CV axles but this is a new one for me. Anyone done this?

I guess I did not realize that driving a show car 1000 miles a year would hurt the environment. Now, lets talk about killing our wild animals...! (heh, heh) Thanks for the info on nuts and bolts. I know that LOWES has a great section of metrics. I will look for a large ACE Hardware in Salem. I guess I can use these "larger-headed" bolts and nuts if I have to. It will save me a lot of trouble running up and down I5 to the platers!

My bad! I did not do that for the first 2 buckets. Now I have a table full of nice iridite-plated material that I am having to use as I need it. I started to size them and measure them later. I am thinking of doing away with the vent tank. I am guessing I can just leave one vent on the top, right beandip? Do you exit that vent line outside the car? Do you need a filter on it? That is what I did on my '73 Duster. I just vented the line and put a 180` bend in it. Did away with the carbon cannister.

Some excellent points, gentlemen. I'll remember to put the diff strap on first. The body/paint guy has to finish the front and rear of the car once I get it on its wheels. I will just have to fight the rear bumper on with the tank in place. It is going to be a long haul for me. I am not wanting to put it back together with the old bolts. I keep taking them up to the plater as I need them. I had them all separated into small sacks to keep them straight. When they come back in a bucket, it is hell to find the correct screw, nuts, bolts, flat washers, lock washers, etc. I think I will start using my Sony digital camera for the platers stuff before I throw it in the bucket! It will all work out. I am retired so time is on my side! I am having some concerns about the lines for the tank. What have you guys used to hook up these lines? I know they need to be special hose. What about using some copper tubing for all of the 90` turns/bends? I am thinking of buying fuel lines and then installing a couple of 90` bends to direct the hose through the 'maze'. Any plastic or hard vinyl pieces that will withstand the gas fumes? Any other ideas?

I am ready to start assembling my Z. I have the brakes and struts at the machinists. He is ready to take them to the powder coater. I should have them back next week. I am wondering what order I should put things back on the car. I do not want to put parts on the car that will make it more difficult to assemble. I am going to put on the master cylinders today and attach the brake and gas lines. I will install the wiring harness next. When should I put the fuel tank in? The tub in on a rotisserie so I can get at things very easily. Some of my parts, lines, bolts, etc. are at the platers and should also return next week. Can someone give me a list of how they put their Z back together? I have the Z book but he does not have an "order" or sequence for assembly. (Along with a lot of other missing info!) (I will install the engine and tranny last, of course.)