Z Excellence

Thanks for your time in doing that to help me. It was super hard to get down there twisted to even take the picture I know. I’m 66 and once I got down there it was hard to get out!!!

That’s exactly what I was thinking! Can’t find vacuum valve anywhere.

That is exactly how mine is connected. I is connected to D1. 1976 280Z manufactured 9/1975.

When I pulled out the center console and with one hand I would touch the vacuum selector Lightly with my finger While vent was selected it would cause air to come out different areas. For instance vent was selected but touching the vacuum selector made air come out of heater doors. I’m also puzzled by the shop manual has different stamping on the selector than my car. I’m the original owner. I was in Houston Tx so I had to put the console back in to drive it home. I agree with you that I should follow the stamping on the valve, not the shop manual. AC and defrost work perfectly. Thanks for your input and help.

Thanks I will check that out. I see what you are talking about.

No this is 280z with factory air. 1976. The drawing is out of 1976 280Z shop manual. The picture is in my car.

Thanks Ron. I will

When I select vent on panel the heat comes on. All vacuum lines have been replaced. I have traced the problem to under the dash heat/control panel. When I touch the vacuum selector valve it will cause other AC/ defrost / heat doors to open. Is there anybody that has one of these valves? Can’t find one anywhere. Thanks, Tracy

On my 1976 280Z I was replacing the drivers door switch which I had done before many years ago. When I slowly tugged the switch out the 4 wires became unplugged from the old switch and fell down in the body panel, Does any one have any ideas on how I can get those 4 wires back out? I haven't removed the control box by the drivers left leg yet but it looks as though it solid body panel behind it. I though about getting one of those drain pipe cameras but I'm not sure if the camera will fit in the little hole that the switch mounts to. Thanks for any help!

Got a rebuilt alternator and installed a new external voltage regulator on my 76 280Z, It worked fine for about a month. Now the alternator is working fine but not sending power to the voltage regulator. This is an intermittent problem but has left me stranded 3 times when it doesn't charge the battery.Works perfectly for a few days then stops charging the battery which I can tell by my guage on the dashboard and the dimming of lights also checked it out with a mechanic using a meter. The fuseable links under the covers by the strut towers are good. Is there an ignition relay that could be malfunctioning from time to time and where is it? Much thanks

Turns out it was a bad fuel pump relay under the dash.

I have no tester, but I replaced the pump around 9 yrs ago. Would this also be the symptom of a bad fuel filter? Thanks

On the way home 7 miles total, my Z shut off going around 40mph two times> After coasting over to the side of the road it would immediatly start right up like there was no problem. Needless to say I can't get it to do this in my garage. Any ideas.... its almost like some gremlin turns the key off. Thanks for any replys.

Or call Doug At AWESOME Z in Houston he may have a fan motor there.

Z car source of Arizona sells rebuilt fan motors and I got one for my 76Z and its been perfect for 2 yrs.Youmail them your core. Call them and tell what you have. They will work with you to get what you need.