Z Excellence

Thanks for your time in doing that to help me. It was super hard to get down there twisted to even take the picture I know. I’m 66 and once I got down there it was hard to get out!!!

That’s exactly what I was thinking! Can’t find vacuum valve anywhere.

That is exactly how mine is connected. I is connected to D1. 1976 280Z manufactured 9/1975.

When I pulled out the center console and with one hand I would touch the vacuum selector Lightly with my finger While vent was selected it would cause air to come out different areas. For instance vent was selected but touching the vacuum selector made air come out of heater doors. I’m also puzzled by the shop manual has different stamping on the selector than my car. I’m the original owner. I was in Houston Tx so I had to put the console back in to drive it home. I agree with you that I should follow the stamping on the valve, not the shop manual. AC and defrost work perfectly. Thanks for your input and help.

Thanks I will check that out. I see what you are talking about.

No this is 280z with factory air. 1976. The drawing is out of 1976 280Z shop manual. The picture is in my car.

Thanks Ron. I will

When I select vent on panel the heat comes on. All vacuum lines have been replaced. I have traced the problem to under the dash heat/control panel. When I touch the vacuum selector valve it will cause other AC/ defrost / heat doors to open. Is there anybody that has one of these valves? Can’t find one anywhere. Thanks, Tracy

On my 1976 280Z I was replacing the drivers door switch which I had done before many years ago. When I slowly tugged the switch out the 4 wires became unplugged from the old switch and fell down in the body panel, Does any one have any ideas on how I can get those 4 wires back out? I haven't removed the control box by the drivers left leg yet but it looks as though it solid body panel behind it. I though about getting one of those drain pipe cameras but I'm not sure if the camera will fit in the little hole that the switch mounts to. Thanks for any help!

Got a rebuilt alternator and installed a new external voltage regulator on my 76 280Z, It worked fine for about a month. Now the alternator is working fine but not sending power to the voltage regulator. This is an intermittent problem but has left me stranded 3 times when it doesn't charge the battery.Works perfectly for a few days then stops charging the battery which I can tell by my guage on the dashboard and the dimming of lights also checked it out with a mechanic using a meter. The fuseable links under the covers by the strut towers are good. Is there an ignition relay that could be malfunctioning from time to time and where is it? Much thanks

Turns out it was a bad fuel pump relay under the dash.

I have no tester, but I replaced the pump around 9 yrs ago. Would this also be the symptom of a bad fuel filter? Thanks

On the way home 7 miles total, my Z shut off going around 40mph two times> After coasting over to the side of the road it would immediatly start right up like there was no problem. Needless to say I can't get it to do this in my garage. Any ideas.... its almost like some gremlin turns the key off. Thanks for any replys.

Or call Doug At AWESOME Z in Houston he may have a fan motor there.

Z car source of Arizona sells rebuilt fan motors and I got one for my 76Z and its been perfect for 2 yrs.Youmail them your core. Call them and tell what you have. They will work with you to get what you need.

American stitches did a great job on my 76 steering wheel. I posted some pictures a few years ago. It was showroom quality. They kept it about 2 weeks.

Try Erickson Nissan in Canada. I got a regulator for my 76Z drivers side from them last year. They are nice people to work with.I'm at work so I don't have their phone #.

On my 76 280Z I'm going to remove the seat belts in order to do a neater job for putting in a new carpet. Many years ago I undid something on the lower outer seat belt mechanism that caused the coiled spring to unwind. Many hours later I got it back together.Can any one refresh my memory which bolts or screws NOT to take off. Thanks

I went in to have my ac system checked out, it wasn't cooling well. It was switched over to R134 in 2000. They said I have a leak in the front seal of the compressor. I looked at MSA an the compressor is no longer available. Does anyone have any experience with having the stock compressor rebuilt? I have had the car since it was new and this is the original compressor. Not bad 32 years!The other option was switching to a totally different compressor and that would be like $900.00 labor and parts. Please advise. Thanks

Dave made me a harness for my 76 280Z an its one of the best upgrades for the money that I've ever done. I also put on some sylvania silver star headlights with the new harness. Fantastic!

After reading your replys all I can say is the radiator hangs straight on the little hooks on each side and the 4 bolts always line up without any problem and I snug them down evenly. The radiator was the first thing to break on the car when it was new after only three years so I'm going to really look close when I get it off this time. Maybe a factory defect in the mounting area? Is there any other way other than just eyeball it for straightness?Thanks for all your help, this is frustrating.....

I've got 210,000 miles on it and yes I've had a Modine radiator which I had fixed three times then got rid of it.

I' ve had my 76 280Z for nearly thirty years and last week my radiator started leaking again. This radiator is my 6th one. I'm not buying generic radiators. I have tried Nissan, MSA, reputable radiator shops in town that have made custor ones to fit my Z. They don't get plugged up, they just start leaking at the seams top or bottom usually.Then I'll have them repaired two or three times and get another one. The car has never been wrecked. Are aluminum radiators stronger than a stock radiator? I hate to spend extra $$ that won't fix my problem. Thanks for any ideas.

Going to be 53 in July.

My clutch pedal on my 76 280Z has alot of play from side to side and depending on the outside air temp it works super easy when it real cold and stiffens up when its hot. I've had the car since it was new and the best I can remember the pedal worked alot easier when it was new.I recently changed the clutch pressure plate throw out bearing etc. Are those bushings that the pedal pivots on hard to change? They are only $3.00 but it looks awful tight under there. Thanks for any advice.....