jonathanrussell

Apologies if I am asking you to repeat what you have already written but how well does your car start up, warm up, and drive until it dies?

I was sort of under the impression that the car now would no longer start. My mistake. Still, doing what you just described is, to me, the right step to take. I would say...when it stops again 1) confirm that it won't start and then 2) do the starter fluid test. Don't burn yourself working on the hot engine. BTW, it can be any pliars that work...I just typically use needle nose for that particular clamp. And...if you get nervous about removing the vacuum line....go back to the method where you open the air cleaner and spray into it while someone starts the car...pressing the accelerator pedal some while starting. And, someone else mentioned removing the air filter and just spraying without the filter in place (that way you don't saturate your filter).

I have in my hand the same Polar starting fluid can that you have. I see no provision for attaching a straw to it. I don't think it will matter though. Here is what I would do..... Remove the hose Site circled above at the manifold. This hose is held in place with a small spring type hose clamp. All you need to do is use needle nose pliers or similar to squeeze the two protruding "arms" on the clamp together and then, while continuing to squeeze the arms slide the clamp up the hose away from the manifold. After that, turn the hose at the manifold a few times to free it up and pull off. Once the hose is off, I think you will be able to situate the spray nozzle very close to the fitting opening where the hose was and direct the spray from the can into the manifold. Spray for 3-4 seconds. You can loosely place the hose back on the fitting...doesn't need to be re-clamped yet. Try to start. If not, spray a bit more. If nothing, then you will know your problem....at least in terms of starting....is likely something other than fuel. I say "likely" because you could have a coincidental fuel problem and ignition problem...however unlikely. If it starts, you know you have some sort of fuel problem. Remember, it won't run. You just want to know whether the starting fluid gets the car to start...even for a second or two.

Jai, I would say my method has worked for me but I had never really thought about Sarah's until I just looked up your other thread and read her method. The downside to my method is you saturate your air filter (it will dry, fyi) and you will probably use more starter fluid with my method. Sarah's method is just as easy...maybe easier because you don't need to remove the air filter cover bolts which can be a pain in your car. You just remove one of the small rubber hoses that connect into the top of your intake manifold (the big cast aluminum thing on the top driver's side of your engine) and spray in. As she mentioned...you need a straw to direct the spray into a small hole. You could choose the rubber hose that connects your intake manifold to the carbon canister (see fsm). You could use the hose that connects to the brake booster. Lots of options.

My pleasure Jai. In my mind, one of the first things you should try and then report back is the starter fluid test. When I have diagnosed with starter fluid in a 280, I have simply removed the air cleaner cover, left the air filter in place, and saturated the air filter while someone else starts the car.

Anytime an individual invests the molding / fabrication / design dollars to reproduce something like this, given the low volume, the price is going to be high. Each item sold must contribute to cost recovery (direct and R&D) and when volumes are low, the rate is high- not to mention factoring in a provision for profit. I recently had a tool made to be used in a shop press to allow for the original mustache bar bushing sleeves to be bent over the mustache bar eyelets in the right original shape...without tearing the sleeve. I had several extra tools made but could likely never sell them at a price folks would think reasonable. It is just how it is with low volume. Personally, I am just thrilled that 240zrubber is around and some of the rubber items they provide are available.

240z rubber parts makes and sells them. I inquired recently about the "out of stock" message and he said he would make them upon order. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5696404

Hi Bratliff.... Just arrived home tonight. I have confirmed that I do have a 76 fsm...pretty much new condition. I don't have a 76 car. You do. I will send mine.

Should be a 76 and a 71.

Agree with what Hardway wrote. And, I think 2k is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to getting the 240z running safely. I personally wouldn't abandon the FI in the 280. Jai, I am 90% sure I have a printed 76 fsm. I am traveling this week so won't know for sure until I return. PM me your mailing address and if I have one I will send to you.

Someone jump in and correct me if I am remembering incorrectly but the 280z vent controls are all driven by vacuum lines that start in the engine bay and run through the firewall. The first thing I would check is the connecting points for all of the small vacuum lines on the passenger side of the engine bay (around the strut tower). The connecting points split, which causes vacuum leaks, and therefore your vent controls fail. This also affects the performance of your engine.

What djwarner said regarding cameras has also been my experience. The color correction of the monitor you are using matters too. The photo I have attached shows my original 24k mile block from my 72 240z. Hanging with it is a bracket I painted using the Classic Datsun Motorworks aerosol paint. Live, the block and the bracket look to be the same color and darker than this photo shows up on my monitor. The key difference between my block and the bracket is the gloss on the newly painted bracket vs the 43 year old paint on the block. Hope this helps.

This doesn't directly answer your question but you may be interested in knowing that MSA sells a reproduction. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic01a/50-5350

What do others think about the wire clamps? I am refreshing a low mileage 72. Before re-plating the clamps I felt pretty certain that the interior heater hose clamps (under the dash) were definitely a shiny zinc without any yellow chromate but that the engine bay and fuel tank clamps are zinc with yellow chromate (or cad with yellow chromate).

I have used Vintage Connections. Looks like the following will work- except for no mounts. MP6N Non-Latching Set 6-pin 6.3mm (1/4") spade-based non-latching M/F Connector Shell Pair, with 7 each 18-16 AWG, M63/F63 crimp terminals. White Nylon. Directly replaces original Hitachi shells from the 1960s-1980s. http://vintageconnections.com/ Click on the Prices button and scroll down to the MP6N item. Not the most modern web site.

Are you using the ITM rings or something else? If ITM, how do they look to you? Are they chrome, Moly, or iron?

I have successfully swapped towers and cam from one head to another before....though not suggesting it always works. If your 2nd head is straight and uncut and not cracked, I think there is a good chance can swap towers and cam to it and use it. I installed towers and cam and slowly torqued the bolts in varying sequences while turning the cam and tapping on the towers with a dead hammer. Eventually I ended up with a free turning cam and torqued bolts.

FYI, Zed Head I agree with your concern about adjusting the AFM spring tension, and what you wrote in your new thread. I know that many smart folks on this forum adjust the spring tension to correct mixture problems. I personally can't wrap my brain around that being a good path to success. Just my opinion though. I agree with what Zed Head wrote about the effects on tension throughout the flap movement cycle. mir45, I have read your entire thread. Sorry for the frustrating problems you are having. I have two comments that I am sure you have already considered but maybe something will help you stumble on an answer. 1) One time, my 75 AFM ended up in a situation where the flap was getting stuck (bent a bit due to a backfire probably). In reading your situation, I wonder whether your flap is stuck about 3/4. If so, you could be rich most of the time but lean at WOT. I seem to recall you writing that your flap is not sticking. Are you certain? 2) Are you sure that your injectors are not the problem? Especially if you have original injectors (can't remember whether you said yours have been replaced), more often than not, I am finding that poor running 280zs end up getting solved with new injectors (of course assuming other sensors and wiring are working as they should). Are all cylinders firing?

Perfect. FYI, it will be early May. Thanks. I look forward to meeting you.

Done.

PM sent but you can ignore. I will send to the email address above. Yes, I would like the exhaust and intake if you will include. Thanks...

I will buy and pay now if you accept paypal and if I can pick up in May when I am in Atlanta next.

Zedyone, It has been a while since you purchased your 2000 Roadster. How do you like it? Any regrets? Any observations or advice for a zcar guy who, like you, has decided to look for a 2000 roadster to add to the stable? Thank you...

I was thinking about valve adjustment and aftermarket / reground camshafts a few weeks ago and your post about adjusting your valves reminded me.... I know for certain which cam is in each of the zcars that my dad and I have. Mine all happen to be original so the FSM specs for intake and exhaust valve lash clearance should be followed. Many L series engines though, after 40 years, have been rebuilt using a reground camshaft where the cam card indicates valve lash clearances that differ from the FSM. So, how do the rest of you deal with this if you don't know what cam may be in your engine? Do you measure the lobes to see if they haven't been reground?

Just my opinion but unless you are making a big jump in HP and max rpm (which it doesn't sound like you are), OR you are improving your rod stroke ratio with longer rods and shorter pin height custom pistons, OR your rods are damaged, I can't imagine replacing rods in an L24. L series rods are very strong and forged. There is some debate about rod bolts. Early L24 rods had 8mm and later had 9mm. Most desire the 9mm L24 rod. ARP rod bolts are available for either if you are concerned. There are some who aren't fans of the ARP rod bolts with L series rods because they are very tight when pressing in. The concern is that if you don't get the stud pressed all the way in the bolt could loosen under load. There is a lot written on this topic so you may want to search a bit. My personal decision was to use ARP bolts in my 9mm later L24 rods. Even if I had 8mm bolt rods, I would use ARP bolts and keep the rods.