jonathanrussell

Use an automotive stethoscope (sears, auto parts stores, etc sell). They have a wand that you touch to various places and you should be able to hear where the noise is coming from. You can approximate this with a cut off broom handle etc but the stethoscope is best.

Love the exhaust system. The web site mentions that the system bolts directly to their Kameari header. Like you, my preference is to continue using the stock exhaust manifold. Does the same system connect to a stock manifold and the Kameari header, or do you need to specify when ordering. Also, who did you let do the ceramic coating of the exhaust manifold? Did you block the air galley holes? If so, what did you use? Great work on your car btw.

Looks to me like your #3 is dead.....running on 5 cylinders. Maybe this explains some of your performance problems? By dead I mean not firing...or not injecting....no combustion. Also, personally I don't see any smoking gun in your compression numbers.

Thanks for the info. As far as my car goes, the engine, suspension, drive train, fuel tank, and everything else under the car is removed and being refreshed. FYI, your flare tool looks very similar to the Fedhill tool I am using.

Sorry to hear about your mistake. Doing a job that big twice is never fun. Can I ask what you decided to use for tubing? I am about to start the same project and am 99% sure I will use tubing from Fedhill. Also, what flaring tool are you using?

Looks like a good list. Unless you replaced previously, you could replace the steering knuckle to strut assembly o-ring. Motorsport! O-Ring, Steering Knuckle To Strut Assembly, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts I would also evaluate the steering rack boots and have those on hand if they are dry / cracking. Might as well do the wheel bearings and seals while you have it all apart. If your master cylinder looks 100 years old, you may want to replace it while you are doing the caliper rebuild.

Congratulations on the beautiful results. What is your plan for the car? Show only? Drive on weekends? Afraid to drive?

I have read similar warnings from others but have never inquired as to why. I am curious what the reason is. And, if one does need to change the pinion seal, what is involved? I am about to do the same project as the OP, fyi. Thanks...

I have found Kroil to be my favorite penetrating oil. As others have said, combine with heat and patience. One quick comment on the opposing stud- the one on the left of your photo that is not visible. Don't chase this one unless you pull the valve cover and capture any shavings. This stud goes straight into the timing chain area. Any metal shavings you create from chasing the threads get pushed into your engine. You can also bend your chain guide. Don't ask how I know this.

Carl, How do you think your Euro Spec Stage I springs would work on a 240 with a set of NOS Bilstein p30-061 and p30-062 strut inserts?

The "one in - one out" is a proportioning valve. The "one in - two out" is a distribution block. Very interesting rotisserie. Never seen one made with wood. Is it sturdy? Does it rotate easily?

Thanks for the info Gary. Wish I had the space for the front clip- not yet ready to tackle that project. I will keep the contact info, however. Again, thank you.

Thanks Steve. I met Eddie once about 10 years ago but it has been a long time and he definitely wouldn't remember me. Since I do all of my own work (other than engine machine shop work and the sort of frame work I am inquiring about), I would feel bad about going by to pick his brain, knowing that I realistically wouldn't be buying his services. I need to join the GA Z Club and get to know you guys who are active and who have advice about and experiences with local shops that know L series engines and the S30 unibody. Thanks for the suggestion.

Hi. Amazing repair job. I see you are in GA. I am in Marietta, GA. I have a 240z in storage that had a front impact sometime in its life that was not repaired very well. I have been looking for a shop that can measure the unibody and straighten if necessary. Looks like you have one. Would you mind sharing the name of the shop? Thanks...

Looks like a good car. I would start with the following and have a goal of not digging too deep. You want to drive the car and if you start taking it too far apart you may find yourself with a non-running zcar for a long time. - Clean everything. - Replace all wear items in the brake system- pads, shoes, hardware, master cyl, wheel cyl, calipers, etc. - Flush clutch hydraulics and assess. - Change oil many times over the first 1k miles. - New tires. - Check cooling system hoses, etc. Flush cooling system and replace fluid. - Drain, replace fuel, assess tank. If you drop tank, replace all hoses, etc. - Basic tune up stuff. If the car runs but runs rough, read up on swapping the carbs to round tops. A set of ztherapy carbs works miracles.

There is a lot of information, and even a current thread, about using any number of the various gas tank restoration systems. These systems typically involve acid stripping the inside of the tank and then coating with some paint / epoxy type coating. I have two tanks that are in terrific condition. When I look inside the tank (as well as I am able to) the surfaces seem to be electroplated in some way- maybe zinc. Does anyone know how our tanks came from the factory? Was the inside untreated metal? Personally, I don't think so. Was the inside electroplated? If so, with what? Have any of you guys considered having the tank acid stripped and zinc electroplated instead of using one of the coating systems? Thanks in advance for the thoughts and comments.

What Carl just wrote is exactly what I do now that I think about it. I left the "impact" detail out of my post. A little bit of impact works wonders. Sometimes, you can't quite get a hammer in place for a blow, however. When this happens, I simulate it a bit (though not as effective) by turning the snap-on wrench with a quick jerk of a turn....instead of slow. As Carl says, slow doesn't work well.

Once the fittings have been rounded, you are sort of resigned to the vise grip method. With un-rounded fittings, I have found that patient use of Kroil / PB Blaster and then using a Snap-on flare wrench works best. After struggling with a Craftsman flare wrench for years, I finally figured out that, at least for flare wrenches, Snap-on is worth it. They simply fit tighter and don't flex. There may be other brands that work particularly well too but I have not tried other brands.

I would listen to John and stick with perfectly functioning stock S30 brake components (except for modern pads and shoes of course). Either rebuild your S30 calipers or buy a re-manufactured set. It is possible that your calipers can be rebuilt with new seals. If the pistons are pitted though, it may make more sense to buy rebuilt calipers.....though there is some debate on this. I am rebuilding a set of calipers and have been able to find Nissan seal kits and aftermarket pistons. My cylinder walls are in great shape so they should rebuild fine. No you don't save any money by rebuilding. The reason I am rebuilding is so I can simultaneously apply a rust prevention coating to the caliper halves- I am zinc / yellow cromate coating mine, fyi. Unfortunately, all re-manufactured S30 calipers that I know about are blasted and left uncoated to progressively rust. I have personally found that freshly rebuilt / maintained stock S30 brakes are great for spirited driving in a street car. This means everything is in spec and working properly- booster, master cyl, calipers, true rotors, good pads, and properly functioning drum brake system in the rear- wheel cylinders, drums, and shoes (all in adjustment). Once everything is in perfect shape, change the fluid often to keep the hydraulic components in good condition. It all works very well and all of the parts are readily available (except aluminum drums....though you can find those also with some searching). To me, the rest of your list looks similar to what I am doing with my refresh project....with some brand differences here and there. I am probably using a bit more stock bushings where you are using poly, though I am using poly at coupler, rack mount, RT mount, transmission mount, and potentially mustache bar (but still debating....concerned about getting the stock bushing machined in). I want this car to have a very stock feel, but with improved steering response (less play).

Guy. Your car is looking terrific. Earlier in this thread, you mentioned changing to Eibach springs for this car with Tokiko strut inserts if I remember correctly. Since the springs with this car only have 25k on them, did you consider leaving the original springs? What drove your decision? How would you characterize the Eibach spring ride/handling/ride height characteristics compared to stock? I am having this internal debate on the 25k mile refresh I am doing. Thanks

I have been following your build. So, I know that it is early and you are still breaking in, but are you able to assess the build yet? Does the power feel like what you expected? Have you had any detonation issues? Are you able to run a normal timing advance for your setup? Engine sounds good, btw.

For forum archive purposes I just wanted to follow up on what I discovered. The reason I asked this question is that I am refreshing my 5/72 orange 240 and I am going to refresh the fuel tank. For quite some time I have owned a still boxed up 73 fuel tank that I purchased on Ebay several years ago. I wanted to know so that I could restore the 73 tank and then swap. I have since brought the 73 tank out of storage and opened it up. Luckily, it is in great shape. It appears to be identical to my 72 tank except that it has a fuel pump mounting bracket at the tank seams on the engine side of the tank. Here are photos of the two tanks. Thanks,

I purchased several cans of the Eastwood semi gloss extreme chassis black a few weeks ago and have been starting to use on a project. I am getting really nice results but have been tempted to test / compare VHT's roll bar / chassis paint. I also purchased and have been using the Eastwood chassis black primer- which has had some spray nozzle seeping but nothing major and still good spray patterns with no effect on the finish. I have had no spray nozzle issues from the semi gloss paint so far, at least with the cans I have used (I still have unopened cans on the shelf). I do find that the eastwood system requires at least 24 hours between coats and I am thinking I will let the parts sit for a few weeks to cure before I install.

I had forgotten about these guys. Thanks for the reminder. Have you been to their shop in MD? If so, is it worth a visit? Thanks.

My first 240z was a hand me down in the early 80s from my dad who put about 150k on it during the 70s- a white with red 72 automatic. Loved that car. Regarding your question- for me it depends. First, you should do what makes you happy. Pragmatically, however, I would consider the condition of the original silver paint in the areas other than the visible exterior. If the engine bay, door sills, interior floors, rear interior deck, hatch areas, etc are all in great original silver condition and you are planning on masking and painting the exterior then I would really consider leaving the car silver. If you are going to disassemble the car, remove the engine, restore the suspension, etc then I would paint it all white- sills, interior, engine bay, everything. Most of all, enjoy.