jonathanrussell

Could you make something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Toro-112-9753-Choke-Cable/dp/B008TSZ41A/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1478716900&sr=8-16&keywords=lawn+mower+cable

Thanks Jeff. Since you did not run a return line, no pics necessary, at least for me. Easy enough to visualize without the return line. Thank you.

Could it be that the reaction disc in the booster has become dislodged?

Jeff, I read through the past 3 pages and read where you suggest ditching the steel rail for rubber. Heat transfer from the mounts has always been my vapor lock cause theory and I have thought about going all rubber but have never tried.....mostly because I have never had vapor lock except on a 240z my dad had when I was a kid. How are you handling the fuel return line? In the original rail, fuel keeps moving to the return, at least to the extent that the engine isn't drinking it and the needle valve shuts, theoretically keeping the fuel cool if things slow down. Maybe in a race car / track car fuel never slows down so the return isn't needed? Any chance you can share a photo of how you have it plumbed? Sorry if you already covered and I missed.

When you guys measure a compressed head gasket, do you measure at the fire ring?

You have amazing skills. I really enjoyed reading / viewing. The work you did to strengthen the frame rails and lower radiator support is fantastic. Thanks for sharing. Also, I think any of the classic car magazines would jump to publish your story and photos.

I agree. 25k to start. Your car might be a good candidate for a bring a trailer auction. Sorry though to see you sell. Best of luck though. One more comment..just my personal opinion but you might consider raising the stance a bit. My recollection is that you have the bc coilovers so shouldn't be too difficult. Raising might appeal to a larger buyer base.

I am restoring a 240z heater box. The little rubber grommets that the side vent door rods slide through (to open and close) are hardened and falling apart on my box. I found something very close to the original grommets at Marco Rubber. Part number is GMT1029. Their phone number is 603-468-3600. No way to order online. I can't recall ever seeing suitable replacements so thought I would share. Attached are 3 photos.

Maybe it is old stock but you can order the Paraut water pump on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Paraut-W0133-1626531-ATS-Water-Pump/dp/B001G6AJPS

The one I received is a GMB, made in Thailand. It is the same as ZH's photo above missing one bolt hole reinforcement. Edit: I should add that other GMB parts from MSA have worked out fine (universal joints for instance). So, this pump could be just fine. I suppose the key point is that I would prefer to not go from something that is fairly well known to me to something that is less well known.

Apologies if I am missing mention in earlier posts but could you remind me which carpet kit you are using. It looks very nice. Really great restoration job.

The link Zed Head provided above is the part I ordered. Seems like when I have ordered in the past, the part was a Paraut Japan part and definitely had a cast impeller.

FYI, I just ordered and received a water pump from MSA. It had a stamped steel impeller....unlike what I have been used to with MSA. Disappointing.

@Matthew Abate regarding your search for solid pivots. I stumbled across the following auction and thought of your thread. Finding a junk head would be a cheaper option but I thought I would share in case you are interested. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-nissan-240z-260z-280z-280zx-head-parts-springs-valve-L24-L26-L28-S30-LOT-/252469436692?hash=item3ac859e114:g:1E0AAOSwnQhXoRct

My orange 72 (6/72) 24k mile original paint 240 has a light application of undercoat with factory orange paint on top. It is a light topcoat but more intentional than over spray. I can't be sure whether there is primer under the undercoating or not. I have the car mostly disassembled refreshing it so the undercarriage is stripped of all hardware, drivetrain, suspension, fuel/brake lines, etc, etc. My plan is to keep the original paint. I am detail cleaning the dirt from the undercarriage and plan to touch up any areas where the paint/undercoating has chipped away to expose metal (none so far but will use primer, light amounts of undercoating and touchup paint from automotivetouchup.com). So far, I have only cleaned the wheel wells and the suspension / fuel tank areas of the rear. While I haven't cleaned the tunnel, the tunnel is undercoated lightly also but the orange paint seems to fade away and I doubt that cleaning will reveal any orange paint like it has in the other areas of the undercarriage.

Attached is a scan of TS73-10. TechnicalSupportBulletin-TS73-10.PDF

@Stanley I have seen your drawing before. Really cool. So, do you agree that the fuel at the nozzle should be the same for both carbs- 10 turns down? In the 1973 Technical Bulletins manual, TS73-10 describes the procedure for adjusting the floats for 70, 71, an 72 240zs. For 72 it specifies a gap between the top of the float and the float bowl lid to be 11.5mm-12.5mm rear and 15.5mm to 16.5mm front. For 70 and 71, front and rear are 13.5-14.5. The TSB doesn't explain why and never mentions the fact that the lid ears and needle jet are longer in front for 72. I can scan and upload if anyone is interested.

@siteunseen.... So, I understand the theory behind the longer float ears and the longer needle jet but after much work trying to make it work, I gave up. I have a decent amount of spare parts so I ended up using a short ear float lid on my front 3 screw carbs, matched of course with the shorter needle jet. Then, I followed the process I described earlier to make the fuel level in the nozzles match at 10 turns down with the domes removed. What is my theory? I just think that the longer ears change was flawed. By lowering the front float 4mm in the float bowl and since it appears to me that the float bowl is tapered a bit, I believe that the rubber float gets restricted in terms of its movement / travel in the bowl (it hits the sides of the bowl) at the point where it should theoretically be in adjustment. The end result for me is that I can never get the float adjusted right. So, to answer what I think was your question, I treat my 3 screw carbs like 4 screw carbs and adjust the front and rear the same....at the float and where the fuel hits the nozzle. Maybe a 2 sensor wideband so I could measure while accelerating would change my mind....

@LeonV how do you like the RE-11As?

My theory (not supported by fact) is that these tanks were originally plated with cad or zinc or something else on the inside which helped preserve the tank. My low mile 72 240 tank looked really good on the inside with sort of a plated look in 90 pct of the areas I could see. When you acid dip the tank, boil it out, whatever....you remove whatever remains of this plating. Phosphoric acid will etch and preserve for a while but unless you keep the tank full all the time, I believe it will ultimately rust a lot faster than it did originally. So, I think coating is sort of necessary. I plan to redkote mine but make sure that I let it cure for a long time. I wish there was a way to re-plate it with something similar to what was originally used. There probably is a way but I just haven't found it. I could have it zinc coated but wonder whether it would hold up the way the original plating did. Again, I have no data / facts that support my belief that the tanks were originally plated. It is just my opinion.

I also found that disassembling the whole linkage, cleaning, using emery paper on bushings and shafts, grease, all made a big improvement. For me, prior to rebuilding it was hard to even rotate the ends that connect to the wiper arms.If your rubber pieces that surround joints are deteriorated, you can buy from 240z Rubber Parts. I even purchased some felt to cut new felt bushings for the joints; battery terminal felt sort of works but I found to be too big. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/

I found your What's it worth message. I think your price makes sense. Our cars are similar for different reasons. Mine doesn't have rust but could really stand to have the whole frame and radiator support clip forward of the front crossmember replaced. A few panels are a little wavy on mine too where it was hit in the rear quarters at one point. From 20 feet mine looks good. I am refreshing the interior, heater core, heater box, etc and then I am going to sell it. I rebuilt the cylinder head earlier this year and it runs good. Just not a car I want to keep forever. Thanks for sharing.

Is this for your Persimmons 240? Why are you selling for so low? What causes you to think of it as a 7k car instead of 15k? Rust? Previous accident damage not fixed well? Running issues? Just curious. I have two 240s and a 280 like you....plus my dad's 280 that I take care of. Like you, I am thinking of selling one of my 240s. I am selling mine because it has previous accident damage that was not repaired correctly. So, my reason for the question is mostly about me trying to assess the east coast Atlanta / Alabama / NC / TN markets. Thanks

I would suggest finding what you need on ebay. Here is an exhaust manifold....and it has the EGR tube in place. Most manifolds you see on ebay have the egr tube cut off, which presents a problem because finding the tube is hard and removing the bolt connecting to the manifold is hard. Exhaust Manifold with EGR tube After that, all you need are the two EGR related pieces that bolt to the intake manifold. If you can find the EGR valve on rockauto or similar, great. The one on top though may be challenging to find new though. I would watch ebay for an entire 77/78 intake manifold that has all of the valves, bits, pieces in place. I don't see one on ebay right now but they show up all the time. Regarding the converter....if your car is not an original California spec car do you need the converter? Non-California 77/78 280z models didn't have a converter. If you have a California car then, yes, you need a converter. Again, I am just asking because I don't know the CA rules.

I like the cutout valve cover. I have a plan to do the same and seal with plexi or something so I can watch oil flow to the valve train.