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jonathanrussell

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Everything posted by jonathanrussell

  1. My 2 cents…. Earlier you asked a person on the forum whether he would let his daughter drive a car like the one you are thinking of buying. I am going to assume that what you mean by this question is whether he would let his daughter have an S30 as her daily driver. If I were your parent I would work very hard to find the right balance for you. I think it is super cool that you are interested in these cars, are mechanically minded, and want to work on, enjoy, and drive a 40 year old car. I would want to do everything possible to inspire your interest in and participate in it with you. At the same time, however, the world is different than it was in the 1970s. First, it is hard to argue that these cars are safe compared to modern cars (hard for me to argue at least). Additionally, there are almost no cars on the road today that are as light as an S30. Mass matters. Real world accidents involve colliding with other vehicles at odd angles and a 2,500 pound car simply loses badly against the preponderance of 5,000 pound SUVs. The height of vehicles is very different today than 40 years ago. 40 years ago there was a good chance that an S30 would collide with a sedan that really wasn’t that much higher off of the ground. Today, the big vehicles on the road are high off of the ground and, in my opinion, more likely to run over you (not a good thing) than into you. Add to all of this the distracted driver problem and, well, you see where I am headed. So, would I let my 17 year old daughter have an S30 as her only car? No way. I would want her to have a sizeable modern car to drive every day. If space and resources allowed, however, I would also find an S30 that would be hers and we would work on it together. I would absolutely let her drive it, more and more over time, but very limited for quite some time, and probably never as a daily driver (at least until she was on her own when it no longer would be my decision). I actually think the safest place you can drive these cars is out on the open road at speed. Where I really worry is in traffic where distracted drivers can rear end me or cross over the yellow line and hit me head on in a 1/3 front collision or run a red light and cause a big side impact. So this was probably not the answer you wanted but there really is nothing more important to you or your parents than your life and quality of life. I would love to daily drive one of my zcars. I have considered it. Every time I consider it though, I decide not to for two main reasons (and I am 49 and have never been in an accident). First, these cars just don’t hold up to recurring exposure to rain (something that is probably not an issue for you). Second, the safety risk is just not worth it…in my opinion. If you decide to buy the car, be very careful and make sure all of the systems are working as they should (the cost of which can be easy to underestimate). Something as simple as stalling while pulling out into traffic (something pretty rare in a modern car) can end very badly.
  2. I use the Clevite 77 bearings also. I recommend that you inspect each bearing very closely for scratches though. The way they package the set by situating the bearing shells front to back in a row is problematic. It is possible for some of the shells to rotate such that the edge of one shell ends up scraping the bearing surface of a shell situated behind it. I ended up having to buy two sets in order to end up with a full unscratched set.
  3. Count me in please for one if you decide to sell a few. Thanks.
  4. Here is the Fugitsubo Legalis R exhaust system plus the WHP stainless downpipe for the stock 240z manifold. Fugitsubo Legalis R http://whiteheadperformance.com/products/fujitsubo-legalis-r-exhaust-system-datsun-240z-260z-280z-s30/ Downpipe http://whiteheadperformance.com/products/whp-whitehead-performance-s-s-adapter-downpipe-for-datsun-240z-stock-manifold-to-fujitsubo-exhaust-system/
  5. Have you tried a thin coat of white lithium grease on the seal?
  6. When you do your reading about paint, you might want to read up on isocyanates. Eastwood's 2k spray paints contain isocyanates. I purchased a few cans but decided to not use after reading. I know very little about 2 part paint and just couldn't get comfortable that even the best cartridge mask system would be enough, not to mention skin exposure risks. Just something to consider....
  7. Here is a new Air Galley. http://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/hoses-pipes-valves-nissan-datsun-fairlady-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/air-galley-for-datsun-240z
  8. The powder coating I am doing on my suspension pieces is 50% gloss black and looks correct when matched with various sections of the original unrestored suspension pieces that still have shiny black paint remaining. This car has 24k miles so there are quite a few areas where the original black shows up well. Of your two examples the gloss looks closer to me to original than the flat. I agree that a satin would be best.
  9. Steve, Depending on the Saturday you decide to go, I may be able to join you if you are interested in having another person come along. Even if I cannot join you, I would be willing to meet you and loan you and Jai any number of spare parts to swap for testing / diagnosing. I have a correct FPR, fuel pump, EFI relay, etc. My spare ECU is probably her same # (A11-600-000). I would be willing to send you with my 75 280 ignition module too. I have a nice fuel pressure gauge and T fitting. Additionally, I have a spare original battery hold down frame that I would be willing to let Jai have. It was a bit rusty and I had it blasted and powder coated when I had a batch of other parts done recently. So, it is solid though a bit pitted beneath the powder coating. If the problem happens to be the FPR, which I agree with Sarah that it is unlikely the problem, Jai can have the one I send along for swapping / testing.
  10. The FPR listed is from a 78. I don't think the pressure regulation is different from 75-77, but the mounting bracket is.
  11. Blue you could very well be right.
  12. So, regardless of what I am about to ask, this is an amazing project that will be fun to watch. Thank you for posting. Did the early cars have an engraving of the serial number on the engine side of the firewall (my 72 does)? If I am understanding correctly, there is a donor chassis that is replacing the cowl/firewall / roof frame / rocker frame, etc. Doesn't the donor chassis replace the engraved serial number? Do you think that anyone will question whether the resulting car is #19?
  13. I really like the strut mount insulator idea for lowering a bit more to even things out because it doesn't impact travel.
  14. Looks really good. I have a 75 and am thinking of the eibach setup and your results here are encouraging.
  15. This is what I do for replacements, whether for my 72s, 75, or 78. I don't want to give up the original blade...just the rubber.
  16. So Sarah.... If you think that it is a fuel problem, you must be thinking that the starter fluid test wasn't performed adequately to start the car. Am I right? If not, could you elaborate?
  17. Correct me if I am wrong but I don't think the integrated distributor / ignition unit came along until the zx. Both my 75 and 78 fsms show the ignition unit located under the passenger dash side panel. I think 75 and 76 are the same module. Not sure about 77. 78 is different, however.
  18. Excellent Jai. So you are starting to learn some things that will help narrow down. I assume your battery wasn't dead when it died, right? Also Jai, just to be sure...you sprayed plenty of fluid into the hole, right? All participating... If the car is starting up and running well enough to run for 30 minutes, then does anyone really think that she has a serious enough vacuum leak to cause the sudden stall? In other words, the yogurt test...while a good test...may not be necessary given what we know. Can we assume that the fuel pump wasn't the problem or fuel pressure or fuel injectors because the car wouldn't start after starter fluid, right? Shouldn't be a heat soak problem- again the starter fluid would have caused a reaction and her symptom doesn't follow the normal 280z heat soak progression. Possibilities IMHO...starting from the simplest to more complicated... Battery, alternator, regulator- not the problem if Jai confirms that the battery wasn't dead when it stalled. Cap, Rotor, wires....unlikely but worth a swap and she has them on hand. Coil. Ignition module. After that, it gets more complicated and requires some real diagnosis. Jai, these are just my thoughts. I am very interested in helping. Wait though for others who are far better at this than me to weigh in on what to do next.
  19. Jai, I think I read that you said you have vice grips. If you are careful to not crush and damage the hose you could use vice grips on one side and the hemostats on the other. Hemostats are a good idea that I need to remember. I use them to hold wires when I solder. Site, the "wood clamps" I was thinking of are the small plastic quick / squeeze clamps. Here is a link to a $5 option. http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-59400CD-Quick-Grip-Handi-Clamp/dp/B00005RHP0/ref=pd_sim_469_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=1G5V56FJVTXBS4NSEJNT
  20. If you mean the whole wiper- where the arms mount to the two round slotted / threaded shafts coming out of the cowl then yes. 77/78 blades mount differently than 70-76 so you can't take a 240 blade and mount it to a 77/78 original arm. Hope I am making sense.
  21. Jai, You can reuse the clamps for the filter that goes in the engine bay for sure. You need two clamps though for the clear filter between the tank and the pump. I think the hose is 3/8" where the clear filter goes, so the clamp needs to be sized appropriately. Probably need a box cutter with a fresh blade to cut the fuel line in the back. Also, if you are going to install the clear filter, pay attention to the arrow showing the direction fuel should flow.
  22. Not cheap but there are some stainless wiper arms on ebay now. Here is one set... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-WIPER-ARM-SET-L-R-70-73-ORIGINAL-NISSAN-MOTOR-CO-OEM-/311399728630?hash=item4880dec5f6&vxp=mtr
  23. Others may feel differently but I wouldn't change any parts (except an oil change if it is time) until we know more. And, when you change the engine bay efi fuel filter, yes, I would also install the clear fuel filter I sent you between the tank and the pump. You need help with that though....I think. You really have to be careful installing that clear filter with the chance of fuel spilling everywhere. Typically, I use two small wood clamps (home depot) to clamp each side of the hose, cut the hose in the middle between the clamps, install clear filter with screw clamps, loosen wood clamps...etc.
  24. Really funny that you mention abusing a craftsman socket as I have taken the day off to rebuild my half shafts. I have spent the past hour abusing a craftsman socket to punch out the u-joints.
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