jonathanrussell

If that is the worst rust you have, then you are in great shape. How do these areas look? Floors (both sides). left and right corners of the hatch deck area that gets exposed when you open the hatch. Battery area Area below the master cylinder. Open up the cowl cover and see what it looks like in the cowl area. For me, if what you show above is the worst rust you have, I would do everything I could to save your original paint as long as you can. Refresh the brakes. Refresh the suspension (rubber, tie rods, ball joints, strut inserts). Replace the tires. Replace hoses, belts. Tune up the engine. Flush and replace clutch hydraulic fluid. Flush replace coolant. Assess fuel tank and fuel. After that, drive it and enjoy. If it proves too difficult to get running smoothly, replace your carbs with ztherapy round top carbs. BTW, very cool that you were able to obtain early photos of your car. Wish I had that for mine.

This looks to be a great find Darrel and at an amazing price. Assuming the typical rust areas of these cars look good on your car, you should feel very fortunate. Congratulations.

I have been following your project closely. This is a great thing you are doing. Thank you. Count me in for at least one....will start with my 75 280z. Question: How will you handle future software updates? I suppose it is useful to distinguish between true software updates (improvements to the capabilities of the system, user interface, possible data points, etc) and updates to the base / stock 280z tune data (which I bet you refine over time as more people buy the system and give you feedback).

Is that an original Nissan passenger side view mirror I see? If so, nice find. Car looks great.

Areas of concern for me, and the reason I wanted your take on the topic, include.... - Could the Jet Hot coating fail when in contact with anti-freeze, oil, or fuel in oil? If so, not good. - Front main seal surface clearance alteration. - Clearance alteration of "bearing" surface in timing cover where oil pump / distributor shaft rotates.

Sorry for all of the questions. We are approaching things in similar ways. I used Jet Hot for my exhaust manifold also. I think I will do as you did for valve cover and timing cover. Did you coat gasket surfaces? What about surfaces exposed to the internal engine- under side of valve cover, underside of timing cover, water pump area of timing cover?

Great information. Thanks for sharing. Who are you using for the zinc / yellow chromate plating? Also, what did you use to paint the valve cover and timing cover? Again, thanks...

Your car is looking fantastic. Would you mind sharing details of your engine refresh? Original pistons? What brands did you choose for rings, bearings, gaskets, etc? Did you leave the camshaft as is or regrind? Also, are you painting or powder coating the black suspension pieces? If paint, what are you using? Thanks.

Have you considered using this plus their clear? 1977 Nissan All Models Colors of Touch Up Paint

Arne, Do you remember how much you trimmed off of the poly bump stop?

This is exactly what my 5/75 280 uses.

For my 5/75 280z, the plastic tail light panel fastens to the hatch deck using the same plastic interior rivets you find all over the interior. For my 6/72 240z the tail light panel fastens using tiny versions of the plastic interior rivets. Both cars are low mile cars with original paint and are very original so I feel pretty confident that they are as the were when new.

Not cheap but depending on your goals this may be an option. Luggage straps for Datsun 240Z | DATSUN 240z | JDM CAR PARTS

This is from my 5/75 280z

As you consider your options, carefully evaluate the rest of the unibody also. In my experience, a unibody with the kind of rust yours shows in the photos you provided typically has rust in many other hidden areas. Have you removed the cowl panel? How does the rear deck below the hatch look? How about the floors, rockers, battery area, master cylinder area, etc, etc? But, again, even if these other areas are perfect I would lean toward finding another unibody.

I second the request for 75 and 76 rubber bumper pieces.

Just my opinion but there are simply too many good 280z chassis still available out there. If I were you, I would make your current car a parts car and go look for another solid 280z.....maybe one with mechanical issues that could be solved with the parts from your current car.

Guy....As Zedy said you are simply not providing us with enough content to satisfy our need for a fix. What we really need is a web camera at the shop. Can you arrange?

Guy when you replace pistons do you have the internal rotating assembly rebalanced...crank, rods, new pistons?

Thanks guys for the ITM info. Will likely use on one of my current builds. Guy, since you have become such a fan of rod / stroke ratio, have you considered something more radical like what Eiji does?

Guy, Where did you buy your ITM pistons?

I am certain it will be fantastic. Have you been pleased with the L28 block / L24 rods and crank combo engine you did? Can you feel anything special as a result of the r/s ratio? j

Hi Guy. So, did you decide to paint the orange 72? It still had its original paint, right? What made you decide to paint it?

It sounds like a seat belt beeper or similar.

And....keep that hair away from the fan....