jonathanrussell

I almost never post replies to the forum but read several times per week. I would post more photos and ask members to give you their thoughts on the body and rust situation on your car. Think carefully about whether this is the right car to start with. Based on the few photos you posted, the symptoms shown tell me that there are likely deeper and even more serious problems. You may spend way more on tools, time, parts, and mechanics/body shops than you would if you were to just find the right car to start with. One thing you could do is drive this one around while you find another 280z (yours looks like a 77 or 78 280z to me). Then, you could use this one as a parts car maybe. Either way, welcome and enjoy. These cars are loads of fun.

Just curious. Are you going to opt for stainless bolts?

I have owned zcars for 25 years or so and have also wanted for a modern car with the same sort of feel as an S30. The 350z does not do it for me though it seems to be a nice driving car. The closest thing I have found is the BMW z4 coupe. Similarities include layout, proportions, long hood, great inline 6 engine, simple controls, etc. Shortcomings include weight, cost, and mechanical complexity that is unavoidable with all modern cars.

Could it be the fuel pressure regulator?

Check for leaks in big rubber air hose connecting afm and throtle body. Still, sounds like afm to me but it sounds like you are sure your afm is good. When my afm was bad, my car was running rich and backfiring. It was the flap inside the afm getting stuck open.

Your response, like EScanlon's and like others in other threads I have read on the same topic, seems to say the same thing though...."we feel for you and you are right but you should have done more". All I am saying is that you can only exercise so much due dilligence. Ebay needs to be more aggressive about going after this type of seller. In my opinion, this auction ad was dead clear that the items were in a condition very different from what was received by the buyer (actually, after looking more closely at the auction I realized that I bid on it too). More than that though, the auction ad was purposefully misleading. And, as another person on this thread has commented, ebay's response to complaints is terrible. And, like others have said, the feedback game is mostly a sham. For the most part, anyone with a really good feedback rating is not likely to leave bad feedback because they will receive the same thing back from the lying fraudulent seller. And, as happened in this case, ebay does not care that the good guy got bad feedback. Bottom line, if you are going to play the ebay game you are going to eventually get screwed and you merely have to be okay with that. In my case, I have made many purchases and I just factor in the reality that x% of the time I am going to get stuck with something that is misrepresented. What ebay needs is competition. That is the only way they will ever give attention to any of this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33696&viewitem=&item=320201260296 Here is the link to the auction description. Everyone wants to defend ebay and the seller but I think the seller purposely cropped the images to defraud the buyer. I too have been very fortunate in my numerous ebay purchases but this situation is dishonest. I for one will add this seller to my list of "never buy from".

When I first saw this listing, I looked at the feedback too. I agree with you completely. With this seller's feedback, I would have to see/inspect/buy the car in person.

Fair enough. I will try to use the right terminology in the future if I am going to give my suggestions.

I don't recall questioning Stephen's response or indicating that I don't believe it. I am though tired of him picking at my terminology when i am merely trying to point the poster in a direction that seems to make sense to me. Car runs good when cold. Car warms up and immediately falls apart. In my experience...and I have experienced something similar...it is the thermotime sensor, water temp sensor, or cold start VALVE.

Fine Stephen...whatever techicalities you like...I suggest that the original poster focuses on these three components. It is my suggestion based on my experience with the car and I stand by it.

Okay so the word "tell" is not quite right. The Thermotime and temp sensor do react to temperature and based on their reaction the brain does something. And, the cold start valve could be malfunctioning and injecting fuel when it should not. And yes, I have read the fsm but I will note your advice.

I would be tempted to try disconnecting the cold start valve.

Have you tested the cold start, thermotime, and water temp sensor? Maybe one is telling the efi that it is cold and thus too much fuel is being injected once the car warms up? Do something to trick the system into forcing the sensors to read hot. I don't have my fsm as I am traveling and I forget whether the sensors are on or off when cold/hot.

Carl, With the Vintage air system in a 240z, what happens to the manual / cable operated vent / heat controls?

Here are the questions that I typically ask unless they are already answered by the ad or auction description. 1) Do you have a clear title in your name ready to sign over to the buyer. 2) Are the miles that you show the total miles on the car? Is it documented? 3) Has the car ever been wrecked and repaired in even the slightest way? If so, how? 4) How many times has the car been painted? When was it last painted? 5) Is there any rust anywhere (and surface rust counts) and especially in the following areas- interior left and right floors including under seats, floors from beneath car, suspension components (under carriage), rear deck left and right corners that you see when you raise the hatch, lower rocker panels and weld seams, battery area, master cylinder area, cowl area beneath cowl cover, etc. 6) Can you provide close up photos of each of the above areas, including the floors with carpet and jute removed and seats as well if possible? 7) Does it start up, drive, stop, and track properly. 8) Does the engine block code match the engine number shown on the engine bay shock tower? 9) Is the interior complete and if not, what is missing? Is the center console damaged in any way? Is the dash cracked in any way? Are there speaker holes in the door panels?

It has been funny watching this conversation. I was one of the two guys bidding on this car. How many unrusted, unwrecked/repaired, original paint, low miles 240z's do you think there are? A few hundred max? It was fun. I wish I could buy the car. No regrets at my final bid.

Interesting. I knew that the harness and distributor and even the alternator I think were different but did not realize that there were more "permanent" unibody differences. Thanks for the info. My first zcar was a 72 automatic.

I pretty much agree with what you are saying. As to "what I am looking for", I would say a great rust free unibody in a car that can be driven for a while and ultimately restored. Correct me if I am wrong, but unless one possesses the original window sticker or original invoice, there is nothing about a z car that indicates what kind of transmission is in it.

It would be interesting to know what the reserve is. Opening is 10K. BIN is 15K. Kind of a big difference. I agree that automatic is a negative...for me as well. I could change it though...I suppose.

This is my first time posting. I have been a steady reader for a long time, however. What do you guys think of this car? What do you think it is worth? Here is the link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Datsun-240Z-Series-1_W0QQitemZ150100387710QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Have any of you seen it in person? Is it as nice as the photos appear (as well as the photos he sends when you request)? Thank you for any input you may offer.

Just to be clear, I am talking about an entire parts swap including wiring harnesses, fuel lines, suspension components, drivetrain, bumpers, grill, dash, nearly everything. Not glass.

Anyone ever started with a 280z unibody and build the car with all 240z parts. Exceptions that come to mind would be doors, hatch, seats. My reason. I have a 72 240z with great components. The unibody has more problems than I want to try to fix. I prefer the look and layout and weight of a 240 configuration in every respect. I want a rust free body. It is much easier to find a rust free 77 or 78 unibody. Your thoughts? Jonathan Russell