jonathanrussell

Guy, Have you run any of your engines on a dyno?

Guy, Do you shim the springs too...outer and inner?

@madkaw....MN47 has smaller ports than P79/P90. So, I assume there is less material to work with. @Diseazd...you have built the engine above many times. Doesn't it require switching to the longer valves from N42/N47? Didn't see that mentioned in the list above. J

Solid looking car. Looks like the passenger floor will clean up pretty easily.

My opinion....I think that in many cases, most possibly, the mustache bar bushings that fit inside the mustache bar hole can be left original and not replaced. If they are cracked or pulling away from the sleeve or hardened then sure, replace. I just don't find that many of this particular bushing from the cars I have worked on fit my description in my last sentence. If I had bushings available and a way to install them, yes I would probably go ahead and replace but I would not think any negative noise or driving symptoms would result from running old but good condition mustache bar bushings. The key reason I am replacing is because I am powder coating all of my suspension pieces. No way I want to use a bushing that has been through the heat of powder coating. The top and bottom washer mounted bushings, however, are different in my experience. Often they seem hard and sometimes cracked. Unfortunately, the bushing that I find difficult to locate is the lower washer bushing that has the smaller hole in the center. And, as a side note (I know we are discussing the original Nissan bushing) unless they have changed, the Energy poly bushing kit uses the top washer for the top and bottom. The Prothane kit (at least the one I have) uses a proper smaller hole washer for the bottom washers. I like the Energy bushings better...seem a bit softer. When doing poly, I mix Energy and Prothane kits just to get the prothane washer. I am sure there is a washer out there somewhere that will work but it is a pretty thick washer and I haven't tried to locate.

I had a tool made by a fabrication / machine shop in Atlanta. I had several of them made actually. Attached are two photos of the tool. Below, also find a link to a video they made using the tool to fold the bushing shell into the swage shape. If someone wants to use the tool and ship it back to me or on to the next person wanting to use, I am happy to help accommodate. You should know though that I have never actually used the tool...which is why I have never mentioned it on the forum. I plan to use it in my refresh of my orange 72 and my dad's pearl black 78. Mustache bar bushing tool video

My dad's 78 has it and I think my 75 has it. I have always assumed it was a jacking point.....and have used it as such.

Here is an alternate approach. Not saying it is the best. Don't discount the fact that you have run hundreds or maybe thousands of hours on the track and haven't had a bolt come loose. Maybe you have your damper rebuilt, install it with a new factory bolt, torque it to spec, and re-torque after every race or so. Just another perspective. Wish you the best. Always enjoy reading your posts.

@siteunseen pretty much any N42 head is worth taking a $100 chance, even sight unseen. See what I did there? Always the chance that it is irreparably warped but....worth the chance in my opinion. I should add that I have about 15 z heads in my basement so maybe I am a bit biased on this topic.

As you have indicated, it is a combination of things. One thing not on your list that I find helps is to make it so that the metal fuel rail doesn't make metal to metal contact with the engine (or anything that mounts to the engine). Rig rubber grommets at the mounting points (engine side and bolt head side). Have also thought about eliminating fuel rail in favor of all rubber fuel lines. Only thing that stops me is loss of the original look. You could ceramic coat the exhaust manifold too. I haven't tested this but am doing it on a car I am putting back together so it is mostly theory.

I want to make sure I am following what you are describing. Are you saying that while you are turning the outer tie rod round and round threading it onto the inner tie rod threads, the outer rod has play, seems like a mismatch in thread size? If so, here are my thoughts. If not, please clarify. I haven't seen this before but I would bet that your inner tie rods are original and OEM (not after market). Therefore I would trust that the original inner tie rod threaded shaft is as it should be. That means that your new outer tie rod may be aftermarket and not as precise as it could be. What happens if you re-install the old outer tie rod? Does it wiggle around? If you can narrow to the new outer tie rod, you may just need to exchange for another tie rod. The key thing with the original inner tie rods is whether the ball joint is worn and loose. A quick test- when you extend the threaded shaft, does it stay in place or flop down (without the outer installed)? The FSM has a more exact method for testing if I recall correctly. Finding new original Nissan inner tie rods is next to impossible. A company named Really Right Parts makes an aftermarket replacement. I have a set but have never installed so I can't comment on quality yet. Here is a link to a site that sells the part. Right Inner Tie Rod The right side is the only one available. So, if you ever need a left side, you use a right side outer tie rod. As long as the inner tie rod checks out in terms of wear, I would try to keep it. Apologies if I have misunderstood your post.

With respect, I don't see how setting the float fuel level at anywhere near the top of the nozzle top at 2.5 turns would ever work. Fuel would overflow in my opinion. The 10 turn method is what I use. I don't remember where I found the 10 turn method that I use successfully but here is an excerpt that set me on the right path to getting my floats set prior to fine tuning my carbs. After you set the floats so that the fuel level is at the top of the nozzle at 10 turns, then you put the domes and pistons and needles back together, return the mixture setting to 2.5 turns down, and continue on with all of the fine tuning steps we all know and love. So, here is a copy / paste of the excerpt. I hope this helps. HOWEVER: Even though adjusting the floatbowl levels to 23mm down is a factory setting, it doesn't guarantee that the fuel levels in the carbs are the same. TIP: We did some measuring with a straightedge and found that on my 4-screw SUs a 23mm fuel level in the float bowl corresponds to exactly 1 centimeter (10 millimeters) below the fuel nozzle "ledge" in the carb. But how do you see to measure fuel 1 centimeter down inside the fuel nozzle? See below. Remove the dome and main piston from each carb so you can look down the tip of both fuel nozzles. Screw each mixture nut exactly 10 turns down from fully up. Each full turn drops the nozzle tip 1 mm, so 10 turns puts the tip of the fuel nozzle 10 mm (1cm) down....which happens to be the 23mm float bowl level. Then look down the tip of each fuel nozzle and adjust each float to set the gas level at the fuel nozzle tip. We ended up taking 9 turns down and set the fuel at the meniscus of the tip. Then when I went to 10 turns the fuel was exactly at the tip. A bit of a juggling act but after a few minutes you will get the hang of it. When you get them to match it's a great feeling. NOTE #1: If your mixture nut won't go down more than a few turns, it's because the factory "stopper" next to the nut is still in place. Unless originality is a concern, you can permenantly remove both stoppers from the bottom of the carb. NOTE#2: if the fuel level is too high and overflows the nozzle tip, you will need to drain each float bowl a bit before starting again. The result was a lower, more solid idle and less choke needed at startup. I get no stumbling off idle and part-throttle acceleration is smoother, acceleration more powerful. Cruising on the interstate requires a lighter touch on the accelerator. Interesting.

Many of the methods discussed will get a car running fairly well but in my opinion, the 10 turn method described in multiple posts by @DaveR is your best path to success. There are other factors too, getting the needle aligned, getting the pistons dropping with the right amount of dampening fluid, synchronizing, reading plugs or colortune, etc, etc. But, in my experience there is no better way to get the floats adjusted right than the way DaveR explained....quite well. It is still tedious. You have to turn over the engine, watch the top of the nozzle hole at 10 turns down, pull the float caps, bend and shape the tabs....over and over. The difference though in the 10 turn method and the methods that require you to measure the float height in relation to the float lid or the distance the fuel settles in a clear tube (of which there are differing opinions on what the real measurement is) is accuracy. Once you get the fuel level to settle at the top (but not over) of the nozzle hole at 10 turns down, you are perfect. My 2 cents.... J

Others can fill in the gaps if I get details wrong but every year Datsun / Nissan published a Technical Service Bulletin book for dealership service departments. Each book contains multiple bulletins or instructions on various topics where the factory service manual needed correction or elaboration or explanation based on new knowledge once models were out and being driven. Each yearly book covers all Datsun / Nissan models....in other words is not exclusive to the zcar models. Each book may contain bulletins pertaining to current or recent prior model years. So, the 1974 TSB book may have bulletins that pertain to 240z cars. You can find the TSB books from time to time on Ebay. I have collected pretty much all of them through about 1984. I find them to be really informative. The TSB I cited above is from the 1973 book. For 240z owners, if I were to only own one TSB book it would be the 1973 book. Here is an example of a TSB book on ebay. 1978 TSB book Regarding adjusting floats....personally I think it is the most important and tedious step in getting the carbs working right. Bending the little tabs one way and then the other in an effort to get the float set just right is insanely frustrating but worth the effort. My personal preference for setting the floats is to remove the bowls, turn down the mixture screws 10 turns, and set the fuel level so that the convex meniscus fuel bubble sits perfectly even with the top of the nozzle. Once you get this accomplished, in my experience, you are able to freely adjust the mixture down to 2.5 turns and then detail adjust using Color Tune or similar. This technique has been documented multiple times on this site and others, fyi.

I recently found out that they do bend with too much hydraulic press force. I just rebuilt a set of half shafts and found bent ears also. The result is abnormally tight c-clip installation and a u-joint that doesn't move freely. I am not sure whether I bent them or a prior owner. They had very thin c-clips and aftermarket u-joints so maybe the prior owner. I think it happens during removal of the old u-joints when seized...especially if a socket being used to press moves off of the joint and onto the ear. Anyway, I have found that installation of the new joint is best done with a vice instead of a press. I used a dremel wire wheel attachment to clean the inside surface of the ear, greased lightly, and the u-joint caps press right in with a vice. I did damage one u-joint by allowing one of the needle bearings to dislodge and bend. Luckily I had a spare new joint.

I think it is Obvious....

Hi Charles. Yes, the proportioning valve works perfectly.

My first car in 1983 was a silver 78 280z....raised white letters and everything. Loved that car.

Price and value are very personal things I think. For me, if I wanted a 78 280z and the car is TRULY as you describe, and you want the car, I would try to keep it off the market and come to a fair price for you and the seller. The key here is, does the condition align with the words you use in your description? Does it really have 40k miles? Lots of little signs will tell you whether it does or not, even absent of records. What is the condition of the engine compartment and undercarriage? Do you see enough evidence of cad plating to make the 40k story reasonable? Are original hoses and plug wires present? Is the interior original and in the condition it should be at 40k miles? As Site says, are the pedals worn? Is door weatherstripping still in really good shape? No doubt, all of these won't be present in any 40 year old car but some combination of them can start to tell you whether the 40k story makes sense or not. Continuing on with condition...is the car truly rust free? Look everywhere- under battery, under master cylinder, frame rails, floors, rocker panels, and hatch deck corners are all common rust areas. Because this car has molded carpet in the floors I doubt the owner will let you remove the carpet to look for floor rust. Still, look closely at the floors, floor plugs and carpet. Any evidence of prolonged moisture on the carpet? Any evidence of rust around floor plugs and seams? Has the car ever been wrecked and repaired? Go over the body thoroughly. Do panels line up? Look closely at the front engine area frame rails. Are there any ripples where the car has been hit and fixed? If the owner will let you, remove the rear carpet and side plastic panels. This will show whether the rear quarter panels have been repaired and whether the rear has been hit. Have sections of the original paint been repainted? Is the roof dented? Since the car hasn't been running in 15 years, it is going to be hard to determine how well it runs, whether or not the transmission shifts smoothly, etc. For me, the thing I would really want to know is what the compression numbers look like. If the owner is willing to let you agree on a price IF the compression numbers look good then I wouldn't hesitate to oil the cylinders a bit (through the plugs), let it sit a few days, manually turn the engine, change the oil, and then try to start it. If it ran 15 years ago, it may very well start. If you can do this then do a compression test and report back. This forum has multiple posts describing how to do a compression test. There are also multiple posts on waking up a car that has been sitting. So, if everything checks out regarding condition and compression, just know that you will have a decent amount of mechanical refreshing work to do. To me, this kind of work is fun. Body work, however, not so much. - You will need to rebuild the brakes (hydraulics and everything) - Basic tune-up stuff - Replace fluids and oil (engine, diff, trans, coolant), - Get cooling system in shape which will probably involve some hoses, cleaning out the radiator, water pump possibly, etc. - Tires. - You will almost certainly need to rebuild the clutch hydraulics (master, slave, clutch hose). As you get the car driving you will know whether the clutch / pressure plate need to be replaced. - Most likely you will need to refresh the suspension. Some or all of the following are possible- bushings, tie rods, ball joints, repack wheel bearings, strut inserts, etc. I would think of this as phase 2 after you get the car running and brakes refreshed. Back to value. So, for me, even though the car has been sitting 15 years and even though the car will need the kind of refresh work I describe above, if the car is in the condition you describe above, it is exactly the kind of car you want to stumble on if you are interested in a 280z. So, if all of this is true and you can start it even for a few minutes and you can verify compression numbers, I think any amount that you can pay less than 10K is a deal. If it was as described and running and sorted and not needing the things I mention to refresh, It is probably worth 15k or so....maybe more for the right buyer. As I said though, value is a personal thing. I place significant value on original paint cars. Even if you don't want to keep the original paint (though my bias is to try very hard to keep it), there is nothing like an original paint car to reveal to you exactly what is going on with the body, prior wreck damage, and rust. I hope this helps. Best of luck.

240z rubber parts has them. The link below shows out of stock but anytime I email them they make whatever is out of stock fairly quickly. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423842

Lots of options for doing either or both but....I am curious what are you trying to achieve. How do you use your car? What about the stock brake performance do you want to improve? My opinion...for a street car, even one that you drive in a really spirited way, totally rebuilt stock brakes with Porterfield or Hawk pads (and probably other brands too) work really well. And, along with pads, another way to improve stock brakes would be tires. I do track days with my MX-5 and braking is amazing. If I were to do track days with one of my zcars, I would probably start with stock brakes, track pads, and Castrol SPF brake fluid....and track appropriate tires. I bet I would need to improve my driving before I found myself needing better calipers, converting rear drums to disk, etc. Anyway...I don't mean to sound like I am discouraging upgrading. I have thought of doing it too....but usually remind myself how well the stock brakes work and then find something else to focus on. Just curious about your goals and thought process.

Incredible car. Looking forward to watching your progress. Great work so far.

Dave is a really smart guy and well respected but....given your situation I would encourage you to keep it simple and find the right pistons. They are out there on some shelf somewhere. And, honestly your best bet might be to take your time with this engine build and find a complete engine that is for sale but that was running recently. Folks do engine swaps in 280zs all the time. Craigslist typically has full engines for sale all the time. Here is a 75 L28 for sale. Not saying $900 is the right price but usually folks take less than what they advertise. Point is....engines are out there. And, if this is really a 75 L28 engine then it has a pretty nice N42 square port exhaust head. I bet in California Craigslist has lots of options. 75 L28

Are you sure that Northern Auto doesn't have the ITM ry6134-20 in stock? ITM ry6134-20

P79 head originally came with flat top pistons and was used for NA ZX cars. I personally would never build a P79 head with anything but flat top pistons. And, most folks who build the P79 head follow a process where they shave the head far more than you have. Guy can speak to this more.... @Diseazd