J.T.

After reading Enigma's post I checked to see what size Holley I had and it is a 600cfm w/electric choke. Is this too much? I looked around for a fuel return and saw the metal fuel line cut on the side wall of the engine bay. What would not having a return fuel line do to my car? Make it prone to flooding? Are the metal fuel lines available to purchase anywhere? Is dropping the driveshaft necessary (I'm sure it makes it easier) ?

Due to fuel contamination/fuel starvation I dropped my tank and am having it reconditioned. I'm also replacing the electric pump and all the fuel/vent lines. I have searched the threads and read about fuel lines, evap tank and electric fuel pump. But am now confused -Today I crawled under my Z and removed the old lines and found that a previous owner had removed the electric pump and cut what looks to be the fuel return line. The fuel supply line on my car is a rubber hose running along the passenger side and up through the front passenger wheel well to the carb. Not original right? Fuel lines are actually pipes running down the trans tunnel right? Keeping the car original is not my concern -being able to drive it is. Everytime I think I get this car drivable I find another previous owner mod (Doh) that keeps it in the garage. To further complicate things I took my Z to a non Z specialist at the beginning of my problems and they put a huge Holley 4 barrel on (which let me drive it for a bit before I had contamination/starvation issues). What am I looking for to hook up to the fuel return line? Does the fuel line running along the underneath of the passenger side sound safe? Should it be pipe? If I complete the fuel circuit will my problems go away? Thanks JT PS. Anyone working on previous owner short cuts -I feel your pain.

Thank you to the contributors of this thread:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14484&highlight=fuel+tank+1973 It helped tie some other things I have read together.

Thanks for the offer but my tank is decent and I'm in Saint Louis so shipping would probablly be more expensive than re-doing my own. I was just curious how difficult it was to hook up the vents. I dropped the tank easily enough but the filler tube is stuck at the top and the screws on the bottom are rusted out.

I dropped the tank on my '73 bacause it kept sucking gunk into the carb. I have the tank out and ready to be rebuilt/treated but was wondering about the numerous vent lines. Is there an easy way to replace the vent lines that go into the body of the car? Are there any modifications to the tank that could be done to remove the vent lines? Any and all input welcome. JT

Thanks for the quick response. And also thanks for correcting me about the transmission/differential.

2 weeks ago my driveshaft dropped on the highway when I down shifted to take an off ramp. I took it to a mechanic who put a new U-joint in. When I went to pick it up he told me it still needs a transmission mount and differential mount -to go find them on the internet and he would put them on. So I have read through the drivetrain threads and am guessing that my tranny is prob a R-180 (I have a '73 240z with 4 spd). I have found threads that discuss the diff mount and clunking which my car is definetly doing now but do not see a transmission mount. Is this the moustache bar used on R-200's? Any help on part names or where to buy ? Thanks in advance.

I changed my mind and went with a holley 600cfm w/eletric choke. Running much better now.

I found a set of 3 screw SU's w/heat shield and N36 manifold for $81 on ebay this week. So after the cores go to ztherapy its fresh fuel lines & pump, inspect the tank and then the SU's replace the holley 4 barrel. No dirt in the lines and no more abusing my engine.

Thanks for following up. I'll ground it. Kind of crazy of th PO to use a red wire as a ground. Now i need to research fixing the battery tray. I don't really like the bungee cord arrangement I have going on

I read your post and went to take a pic proving it went through the firewall and found out I was wrong. It isn't through the firewall at all. I had to look at it head on instead of from the side to tell. It is just a screw on the firewall. It's a red wire but it apparently goes nowhere because I can'tfind anything that isn't working with it not connected. Anyway... thanks for the help.

The car is a 1973 240z, the wire is red and looks to be stock. I checked the microfiche cd and see the wire but could not identify the purpose/part name (I just got the CD Friday and am rather clumsy navigating it). If you have the cd it is #48 on the diagram.

"Oh, I see" said the blind man. Point taken about running my car hard. I know it needs the tank cleaned, new fuel lines and new carbs. Can we get back to identifying the wire? It looks to be the only wire coming out by the battery tray through the firewall. And for what it's worth the previous owner put the "dress up" kit on the wires.

Under the recomendation of the local hot rod mechanic I took my 240 out and ran the you know what out of it. This was to clear some of the dirt I had sucked out of the tank and into the carb. I parked for a bit and when I came back the starter wouldn't even flinch. I popped the hood an saw my battery out of the tray and across some wires by the starter. I got lucky enough to get the starter working again but have 2 wires still unconnected. One from the firewall (which is a red wire) close to the battery and the other looks very similar to the wire that was off the starter (black with yellow stripe). I have 2 pics on my yahoo photo page http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jayteeclassic/album?.dir=/176a ANy help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the info. I'll let you know when I get it in... or when I don't and ask for help