kcdc

Thanks everyone for the help! She's a 76' The rear, lisc., front and side markers are all out. I'll try a new fuse tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the help...

My rear running lights will not come on. The rear blinkers and stop lights work, I've checked the fuses and they appear fine, I chedked the bulbs and they seem fine. Please HELP, with the time change it's dark before I get off work and this has me carless..Ugh... Thanks in advance for the help KCDC

Thanks Mat M & Bloxman for the info & quick replies!

I just received a new (Full/ collar & switch) iginition switch for my 76' 280z. I went to install it and the original unit is attached to the steering colum w/2 phillips head screws and 2 other fastners that have no head on them; do I have to drill them out??? I took the 2 phillips heads out and the others have to come out as well... Thanks in advance...

Thanks Mark! That's my set-up... My lower spring was on the outside of the shoe however; the pic shows it on the inside!? I'll have to see what difference that makes. As well w/the new wheel brak cyclinders I was thinking maybe them not being udjusted out yet might have some effect of the spring fitting snuggly??? I've never replace wheel cylinders before; who knew replace u-joints on half shafts would be easier than replacing the shoes...ughhh Any feedback on the effect/ adjust of a new wheel cylinder would be welcomed... Thanks again for the pics

Thanks Mark! That's my set-up... My lower spring was on the outside of the shoe however; the pic shows it on the inside!? I'll have to see what difference that makes. As well w/the new wheel brak cyclinders I was thinking maybe them not being udjusted out yet might have some effect of the spring fitting snuggly??? I've never replace wheel cylinders before; who knew replace u-joints on half shafts would be easier than replacing the shoes...ughhh Any feedback on the effect/ adjust of a new wheel cylinder would be welcomed... Thanks again for the pics

Thanks Mark! That's my set-up... My lower spring was on the outside of the shoe however; the pic shows it on the inside!? I'll have to see what difference that makes. As well w/the new wheel brak cyclinders I was thinking maybe them not being udjusted out yet might have some effect of the spring fitting snuggly??? I've never replace wheel cylinders before; who knew replace u-joints on half shafts would be easier than replacing the shoes...ughhh Any feedback on the effect/ adjust of a new wheel cylinder would be welcomed... Thanks again for the pics

Thanks Carl, but a (my 76' at least) 76 most different. My spring doesn't have the straight section in the center; it spirals from end to end...

Mine & half red half black on both springs. Thanks for the help now at least I'm sure the shorter spring goes to the top. Maybe my bottm one has streched out to much, because I pops back off when I try as you have explained... Thanks again...

I've searched but can't find the answer; looked in Motorsports catalog & in Victoria British; both have different pictures. I replaced my wheel brake cyclinders on my 1976 280x while I had the car apart to replace the half shaft u-joints. It's been down a while and I'm stuck! I got new brake shoes with the wheel cylinders but the return springs were no that old, so I didn't order those. I can't get the bottom spring on to save my life. Am I correct in that the upper spring is he shorter of the two and the curve on the ends twist in different directions and the bottom return spring is longer spring and the curved ends curve in the same direrection??? If so, they will NOT hold; could the curve/ spring worn enough that they won't go around the hole in the shoe and hold it, or could this be a issue of haveing a differernt brand brake shoe and it not working. They seem to be the same size as the old one (both in hole position and thickness of frame for the shoe. I'm friggen stummped and worn out; ANY help would be appreciated,,,especailly any pictures of the currect springs and set up for a 1976.. Thanks in advance for any help... KCDC Keith

240zx... Were the inside (going into the rack) of the inner ball joint goes into the rubber boot is where I get play/movement. I haven't take the boot off to see if I can tell any more. The tire rod ends and ball joints are new as well. So if there is play ion the rack the slotted adjustment fixes that, or are there other rack parts/ bushings that wear out as well.

Hi, I've replaced all my front bushings w/ poly ones & powdercoated all the parts as well. I've got everthing re-assembled and when the wheels are in the air (no suspension load) I have lateral play that comes from the rack. Is the rack supposed to have any play when it does not have a load, or do I have a rack problem? I did searches & found one good article on rack re-builds, but no mention on play in the rack Thanks in advance for your help... KCDC Keith

Thanks TomoHawk. I gave that a try and no luck.

Thanks for the link. Although I do have a FSM I'm new at this and know there are others with years of expereince out there, so any help with the problem would be appreciated.

Hi, I have a high idle prblem on a 1976 280Z EFI. I can screw down the idle screw to about 3/4 of one turn out from closed and it's idling around 1k. Even there if I give it a little gas, it hangs at an higher idle. If the idle screw is 6 turns out from the closed postion (as the FSM suggest), the idle is 2k and hangs a bit on acceleration. The FSM states that "if less than six rotations are required,the throttle valve is opened excessivley or working parts are faulty". What could make that happen & would that cause high idle? I have cleaned the springs at the accelerator linkage, checked the throttle valve switch and checked all my vacum connections with no fix. If I just nudge the linkage back closed slightly, it idle's OK. That makes me think the linkage is sticking, but I gues part of the EFI System could be telling the linkage not to close fully. Any help is greatly appreciated. SBalke01, you out there??? Thanks in advance... KCDC Keith

Good idea, I'll defintley give that a try over tape. Aren't you in the Indy area MPerdue? I hope to make a meeting soon; I've had the car on stands and going through each system trying to get her road worthy.

Thanks for the replies. I'm rebuilding the entire front end so he car is on stands & I can't do the speed bump trick. I need to pick up a larger pair of Chanell Locks and give that a try. I had all the parts powder coated so I'll have to tape them or something to keep from marring the heck out of them. ...If any one else knopws an easier way...please let me know.

Thanks Steve...

Duh... it is a 76' 280z and I have the Victoria British poly bushings. They are Energy Suspension bushings

I need some help. I searched the forums and found lots of info on TC Rods & possiable bending/braking issues w/ PU bushings, but my problem is different. When I mount the new PU bushings on the rod, the threaded end of the TC Rod is not exposed to put the nut on. I have the bushings and washer in the right order, but the new PU bushings appear to be bigger. My old bushings were way to trashed to get any understaning of what the original set up was. How do I compress this, or install it??? Thanks in advance for any help... KCDC Keith

How much for the engine & Trans??? KCDC Keith INDY

Not to steal then thread but, I take it you saw Will Ferrell on SNL whenhe did that skit. I play drums/ percussion & thought that was funny as Shell. What do you call a person that hangs around with muscians? A Drummer... KCDC Keith Karl - thanks for the clarification...always learning...

Webdawg1, Thanks for the attachment; great info.

As well, you might want to consider hi-temp clear. Autozone sells rattle cans of it & I would think that it would help keep the paint nice longer. Good luck... KCDC

Through much searching on a couple of forums, I learned that on the back of the ignition switch you'll find two very small phillip head screws (have to take steering colum cover off first). Un-screw those two phillip heads & un-plug the wire connector and you'll find what Nissian calls the "Ignition Switch"; but it's not the "whole" switch, it mounts behind where the key goes into the tumbler's. I got the part from www.courtesyparts.com (David House is the Z Expert there). I think the part cost me $20ish. It's known for cutting out once it warms up. If you are having the same problem I had, you'll be running along find it the entire car cuts off like a light switch. Then the car cools down and it will start again. Hope that helps... PM me if I can help further... KCDC Keith