kcdc

Didn't realize they were different depending on year model. Thanks for the expertise...

I thought that the Water Tem Sensor (bottom right of housing; with pain in the rear connector) was what the ecu used to adjust the fuel/air mixture My Housing has (1976 280z): - Thermal Transmitter - Upper left/ one bullet connector - FUNCTION - ??? - Water Tem Switch - Upper right/ two wire; on bullet & one ground loop connection - FUNCTION - ??? -Thermotime Switch - Bottom Left/ pain in the rear connector - FUNCTION - Tells the Cold Start Valve what the temp is and how long to stay on so it doesn't flood the engine -Water Temp Sensor - bottom right/ pain in the rear connector - FUNCTION - Richens mixture until normal operating temp Sorry to have so many questions, but I am really trying to understand this & learn the system. It would be great if the Forum had perm/ sticky threads for tech discussion that explained systems like this As always, you are appreciated... KCDC Keith

OK, but there is a Thermal Transmitter (with a single wire/ on upper left of housing) and a Water Temp Switch (with two wires/ a bullet & and a ground; on upper right of housing) right??? How do they differ? Thanks... KCDC

Question for the guru's, I searched the FSM, the EFI Troublshooting doc & this site. The closest answer I found was here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12985&page=2&pp=15&highlight=thermal+transmitter Is the Thermal Transmitter basically a sending unit for the guages? If so, which guage? I "assume" the Water Temp Switch sends the temp guage signal. I'm learning the workings of the efi cold start system (for lack of better description), but these two are my missing links... Bambikiller, Sblakley01??? Thanks in advance... KCDC Keith

I was wrong about the plug wire's going to the wrong cylinders; not sure how I miss read them previously. Everything is right from the Dist. Cap to the cylinders O well at least I learned the cylinder numbering.

Hey, need some advice for a novice again. I've learned know the firing order for a L28 is 153624 (counterclockwise) on the distributor, my questions is that when I trace the wires to the actual plugs on the head the order doesn't make sense to me (not in order as they come off the distributor, or in numerical order). Please let me know the order (from front of the car to the firewall) that the sparkplug wires should be in at the plug itself. Is it 153624 as well?, if so, I've found my problem... Thanks in advance... KCDC Keith 1976 280z

sblake01, The air flow requlator was partially open. I did clean it and check it's operation as well. Guess it good it's not that seeing how that cost $100. Yes, the car does start OK, but run very rough until it warms up. Any other ideas, checks??? Thanks in advance... KCDC keith

Thanks for the PM & offer of your expertise, If checking the Air Requlator is the fix, I'll post it here for others as well. KCDC Keith

Thanks Carl; I've download the pdf and will read up. Wal280z - holly smokes, can you actually understand/ work from that - You must be a wiz sblake01 - I'm om'ing you in case this is a "oh yea, just do this.... is all you have to do" fix Saw lots of threads on the carburated cold starts that looked pretty straight forward, but this efi system is complex! I guess its time to learn some new skills...who knew getting your car to warm up could be so complicated...I guess I've just taken it for granted; until now... KCDC Keith

$10 bucks, holly smokes that's nothing. I assumed (yea I know) that they would be MUCH more than that and then I would'nt know what the Shell to do with it; at $10 I think I'll take a stab at it. I have the service manual, but it assumes the person reading it has electrical knowelge already, which I don't. I'll have to just jump in a learn. The parts range from 20-100, so $10's a good avenue:) Thanks for the heads up...

Hi, I need help w/my 76 280z It's been running rough when cold; have to give it more gas when cold to keep it running & it's a rough idle. It runs fine warm so I know I'm hunting down the right area, but am stumped as what to do next. Last night I cleaned all the connections at the Thermostat housing including the Thermotime Switch, Water Temp Sensor & switch, and all bullet connections. I used electronic contact cleaner on every connection, and sanded all the bullet connectors & pins (best as possiable). I understood that was the first thing to do, but I've done that & it is still running rough. I've read the maual & the efi bible. I know it could be either the: Air Flow Regulator Air temp sensor Coolant Temp Sensor Termo-Time Switch and/ or the Cold Start Valve The manual say to do continuity testing. I don't have a voltage meter & am really new to the mechnical side of cars. Any suggestions before I start throwing new parts at it? Thanks in advance for any help... KCDC Keith

You have a PM

JL Purcell madkaw dat240z71 240zx Thanks for letting me know your out there & for your info/ offers. I just picked up my 3rd Z (76' 280) and from a mechinical standpoint I need to completely re-do the front end and wanted to check for spot on mech's in the area. I had a shop in Memphis that only worked on Nissians & were great w/ Zs'. It's tough moving and having to find reliable shops. As far as the body work I have awhile before I'm ready. I'll be at the Wed. night meet, hope to meet you in person then. E-Mail me pic's of your car if you can, & I'll do the same once I get a digital picture (have the care at New Augutsa Auto Repair for an electrical problem now). Later... kcdc keith

Had already seen the Indy web site, but there isn't a forum or links to mechanics or body shops. Thanks for the heads up on Jeff, I'll shoot him an e-mail

I'm new to the board and to the Indy area. Just picked up my third Z (2nd 1st Gen). Any Indy folks out there? Where is a good shop (mechnical & body) in the area ??? KCDC Keith...