KGL

Ive searched these blogs high and low for 0-60 times, and evry time i find a little something, someone always changes the subject and no one posts what they got. So, im asking evryone that reads this to get out your stop watch and see what you got, and come here and simply state what time your 0-60 is and what modifications you did to get that time ( even if your stocker posts it) . Lets see who the better driver is!

hey, its KGL the other day i took my z for its first long rang drive. the results where great with the set up that i have on the car. it pulls really stronge. But on the way back home i started to feel a vibration and a noise when i let off the gas. so i nursed it home and jacked it up the next morning. and i discovered that it was the side bearing in my differetial and if this bearing is going the rest of them probably dont have much life left in them. so i decided to go ahead and change all the bearings in the rear end. and then i discoverd that these arnt very cheap bearings :disappoin . So what i am asking evryone is what kind of up grads can i make. Meaning what other diffs... are out there that i can swap in. i already know i can put in a 280z diff... in but from what i know, the only difference is that its stronger than an r180. the setup on the car is a stage two cam three to two headers, and a L24 block bord thirty over. and i also put 280z valves in my e31 head. I also have a stock four speed and dont plan on changing it any time soon. I dont realy know what kind of up grad im looking for, but i just want to know evry possible option there is. Thanks for the help KGL :

Thanks for your replies Mike. After moving my wires around I was able to use the screw to button it down. I also called schnider cams and ask for a timing recomendation for thier stage two cam as it was not on the cam timing card. They suggested a setting of 10 to 12 degrees btdc. I set the timing at about 11 and proceded to go through the su set up procedure as recomended by z therapy. The car is running very well and as a side note my t light broke in the middle of all this so was forced to get a new one. So I purchased one with the adjustible knob. When all done with the set up I advanced the throttle to 3000 rpm and checked the timing found it at the 35 degrees as recommended in earlier posts :laugh: . Boy was I smiling. I will say that I'm at the very extent of the adjustment allowed by the distrib.. One other thing I noticed is that the rotor contact with the cap is on the far side of the t shape of the rotor. If you follow me is this normal as I recall other cars the rotor was in contact early or in the middle? To kinfish thanks for your input, our cars are cousins.....dec 1970 hls30-15835. As to the valves I did use the larger valves. I ground out the block for the valves. When building my motor I followed "Franks" book pretty much to the letter. Thanks again kgl :cheeky:

On to my next hurdle. In setting up the car should I stick to factory specs. for the timing with a stage two cam. As you well know the effect timing has on things (rpm ect.) I need to start with this so I can really start to dial in the su's. She's set up now by feel but it's time to finalize some settings. I've read some of the other posts about pinging set up and such and or setting at 3000 but need to make some timing tape since I don't have a fancy light. I will go one of these ways in lieu of further suggestions. Thanks kgl :squareeye

Appreciate your reply Mike. Last night after posting I was thinking and realized I was on the wrong track and mixing up and combining spark and the valve/piston timing. I also knew that it was not the pump as I set it right when I built the motor( the offset/11.25 thing) but sitting here reading your post I know without checking it's the plug wires. When setting up the distrib. I thought it spun clk. wise ( v8 days) when I realized it was the other way around I just changed wires 2 thru 6 and spun the cap to the other side of 1. I may have come to this my self but if anything you saved me some pondering. :laugh: kgl Question? If you move the timing 60 degrees on the cap does that only change the timing 30 degrees or was your 30 degrees a misprint?

Well as I said after building my motor I'm very pleased as it hauls a**. But my distrib is rotated clk. wise more than the retaining screw allows. So I'm thinkin I should move my cam gear to the #2 or #3 position to bring the spinner around or clamp it with some vicegrips? I'm also tinkin that a "stage two cam" wants to be a little more advanced than stock. Is my noodle working right or what? Phred where are you? kgl

Hey guys its KGL, and I just got my car running for the first time. but i have a problem, i have it set to run but the timing is so advanced that i cant screw down the distributor. Now what i'm thinking is that the cam is the problem. the cam that i have in the car is a MSA stage 2. so what i am asking is were do you guys set the timing on the car with a stage two cam in it. the rest of the car is stock except, i cut in larger 280z valves. I also took all the smoge off the car. Also the head that i have is a E31. I need help. Any input will do me good. KGL,

KGL here what can you guys tell me about Borla xr-1 raceing muffler. Do you think it is good or do you think it is bad. And does it matter if i go with 3 or 2.5 inch pipe KGL

Kgl here, i'm almost done building my motor. I installed a stage 2 msa cam, 280z valves in an e31, on top of a L24 bored 30 over, with flat top pistons. With these performace upgrades included, can any one tell me what my 0 to 60 would be like, and also my 1/4 mile time. thanks for the help KGL

hey its me once again, and I'm still deciding on what cam to get for my 240z with an L24 block and e31 head. so I'm asking this time for any that has a stage three cam or the stage two from MSA to please write back and discribe what the cam is like, its pro's and con's. This information will be very helpful, thank you.

[B]who can help me?[/b] I have a 1971 240z. I had to bore it three over and I had to deck the block two down.In the block I have flat top pistons. I'm also installing 280Z vales in my E31 head. And I plan on putting a header on also. Other than that every thing is stock and I plan on keeping it that way. So what cam do you advise me to get. MSA's third package sparks my intrest but some say that it will make you slugish out of the hole. But a guy at MSA tolled me to get six pounds shaved off my fly wheel and it will fix the problem, is this true and how much will it help. I'm not looking to make a total race car, but just Excellent street performance. And I am also woundering how to figure out the compression ratio on my car. I have the formula but I'm stupid :stupid:. Also just how ruogh does the third cam idle, could you give an example of what it sounds like an what muffler would you advise. I'm sorry to ask so many questions but these are the questions that no one can answer in this town. SOME ONE PLEASE HELP ME!

Thanks for your reply guitar: I am building the motor my self, but won't be doing the head work. Head shop seems good enough and will do what ever I say but doesn't want the responibilty of saying what I should do and what the package should be. The same with the guys at msa. If I run fast I can be at thier counter in 8 min. thats how close I am to them. But honestly I think they suck.... but they got the parts. I just need an answer as to the correct cam to use that will run like a stripped as* ape on 92 fuel idle smooth and I'll be pleased with. With the cam package at about 540.00 and the valves about 250 plus the machineing I'm tapped out. I still have to finish the rest of the car ...two master clyinders,alt. hoses rad ect. interior and suspension tire ect is done. The port and polish will have to wait till I win lotto. Any additional sugg. appreciated.....kgl

Thanks Bambi: I have the book your quite right it is helpfull. My question was in response to being told that contrary to the book someone at msa told me that if I'm keeping the L24 and the E31 I wouldn't notice any difference with the larger valves and to just go with the cam modification. So what is the right cam to use for my requirments as listed before? Thanks

Hi All: New member love the site. I'm currently rebuilding my l24. The bottom end is to remain the same, only bored if need be. I will not be changing to an L28. Now to the head: it is an e31 which I will be keeping, the car is to be used as an every day driver but as always am looking for as much performance without sacrificing to much. I plan to change out the cam, and am wondering if I should increase the valve size to the 280z valve size. Will I have to grind the block some to occomadate the larger valve size. Any suggestions on what cam to use. Will this combination work well and what will my compression ratio be. Also I need new head bolts where can I get them. Sorry for the long post. All help is much appreciated.