sakijo

I just got back from checking my car. Oddly enough, I have a mix of metal and plastic and I have no doubt that they are all original parts that came on the car when delivered to the first owner. The front and back badges that denote "2000 GT" are plastic. This is the same as the GT-R badges I bought for the car direct from Nissan. The side badges "Skyline" and the GT shield are metal. Looks like Lachlan might be right in thinking that the switch from metal to plastic started in 1970-71.

Hi folks. This is to help all you GT-R replica builders. Does anyone know if the red GT badge is specific to the KPGC110? I am asking because from what I've seen, it looks very similar to the R33/R34 GT badge. If it is, this would be an alternate source for the badge. I do know that the Hakosuka GT badge is specific to the Hakosuka only - no other car used them.

Try eBay in America. Sometimes they come up for auction.

You have OCS - Old Car Syndrome. Old cars need to have things replaced because, well . . . it's old. In the last year, I replaced my entire brake system, clutch system, shocks, struts, ball joints, and had the head overhauled because it was burning oil. $$$$ to say the least. Buy a 4 core radiator, if you can. A good radiator shop should be able to make one up for you. Good luck. And don't give in to OCS - there is no cure, but you can live with it if controlled properly.

Shatai 車体　means car body or chassis (of a carriage) according to my big Japanese dictionary. Bango 番号　means number according to same dictionary. So, Alan is correct, Shatai Bango literally means car body number. BTW, the kanji for "sha," I am told, derives from a cart. Looking at the kanji, it looks like a cart when viewed from above - the box in the middle is the cart, the lines on either side are the wheels, and the vertical line running through them is the axle. The difficulty with Japanese is that 車　can be read as "sha" which means vehicle or car; but it can also be read as "kuruma" which means wheel and also wheeled vehicle. So much for today's Japanese lesson.

Hmmmmm . . . . . There's a number stamped on the firewall that looks like "HLS30-00026." I'm not too sure . . . the image is grainy . . . .

How large? I may be able to make a decent copy from the scan.

Although different countries have different requirements in regard to VIN plates, I agree with Alan that the "true" or "official" VIN is the one stamped onto the body. I say "stamped onto the body" because my 1971 Skyline has the number stamped into the rocker panel inside the passenger compartment and our 1999 Harrier (Lexus RX 300) has the number stamped to the floor bracing under the driver's seat. Those are the numbers that they check against the registration papers when you go to register the car. The only other place where the VIN appears is under the hood on a small aluminum plate that has other information like engine displacement, etc.

I was hoping Brian would pass by and get the car. It's a much better project car than the other "sold three times one owner car" And probably comes with a better price tag as well.

Is all that orange paint or rust? I looked through my parts manual and can't find any part number for a shell (no surprise) but they list everything you would need to build your own car ala-carte - roof panel, quarter panel, fenders, floor pans, etc. But, as we all know, with cars, the sum of the parts far exceeds the price of the finished product.

Tell him to send it to Kuwait. They got lots of money to buy old cars.

OK. This explains why I have a pull-switch marked with a "P" in my dashboard. It only lights up the front parking lights and the rear tail lights. There are two bulbs in the front parking lights (one small bayonet type and one normal dual fillament type) but no extra bulbs in the tail light housing. The side marker lights on JDM cars is actually a turn signal indicator and it does not light up like US spec cars. I am told that it is there for the benefit of motorcycle and moped riders who normally ride between the cars and the curb. It lets them know that you intend to turn (usually left) and that they should back off.

Thanks for the offer. I already got one coming.

Kent, The engine is a JDM L20. Mine haas a single two-barrel carburetor and cable throttle. I'll be switching to the twin Hitachi set up and need the double choke cable holder that was found on the Skyline 2000 GTX and Z series cars. I'm sure there are other cars out there that would have something similar, but here in Japan, the luxury of finding a salvage yard in the city is only a dream, and finding a 35 year old car in there would be harder than getting hens' teeth. miles

Jim, Thanks. I'll send you a PM with my address.

I like to use a silicone-based protectant for the dash and tires. Westley's (sp?) comes to mind. Turtle Wax also makes a similar product.

Put some oil in the low cylinder and take a wet compression test. That should tell you if it's the rings or the valves. You didn't say what kind of smoke come out. Blue/black would indicate rings and/or valves. White would indicate coolant, thus point to the head gasket. If it were the rings, I'd probably re-build. I can't suggest a builder, but think about what you want to have done before you start looking around - are you going for stock or performance re-build, for example. Just my opinion.

HI I am looking for a cable holder for the twin Hitachi choke cables that fastens to the valve cover. Anybody got one for sale or willing to give up, I'd appreciate it.

HI all, I am looking fo a cable holder like the one in the thumbnail. It doesn't have to be exactly like this. Actually, what I need is the choke cable holder for twin Hitachis, as I am going to make the switch someday. The part is NLA and the one shown here is for the single two-barrel carb and accelerator cable. Any help appreciated.

No, Alan, not so. It's just that you usually come online when there's a controversial or undocumented claim and you ask the questions that are hard to answer, but need to be found in order to substantiate and add to the knowledge base. Sorry if I made it seem as though you were "daring" to ask the questions. Bruce has already said "No offense taken" and I thought so too. In my opinion, your questions are always direct, to the point, and seeking information rather than questioning the claim. If I offended you, gomen. miles

OK. I thought you Aussies were like us lazy Americans who just didn't like to shift gears. In America, during this period (and today, as well) there were far more automatics sold than manuals. The Japanese of the same period mostly bought manuals. It's pretty rare to find an automatic Hakosuka. Heck, even the top-line Crowns have more manuals than autos.

I don't think they sold a lot of manual 240Ks down in OZ.

I was wondering when Alan would pop up with his questions. I can't seem to find anything yet on this. Bruce, do you remember if the motor was original equipment or transplanted in South Africa?

My friend had a Toyota with factory overfenders. They were bolted on. When you took them off, the fenders were different from the stock ones. The lips were cut off and the edges were reinforced. I suspect that you would need to crimp the edges in addition to welding.

Never heard of an L28R. Another interesting topic. Japanese might have something on it. Suggest moving this to a new thread before we totally hijack it.