sakijo

HEY! Datsun-aholic . . . . Don't you think you have enough? Just kidding . . . I hope you get it.

I agree with Stephen. Aluminum radiators are cheaper to manufacture and cut down on weight. The weight savings helps auto manufacturers achieve higher mpg ratings. As for copper/brass radiators, any good radiator shop can re-core yours for a reasonable price

Motorex went belly-up, leaving a lot of people with no car and out thousands of dollars that they paid up front. I won't go into the details, but for a good understanding, check out the Skylines Downunder web site forums in the USA/Americas section. There are a few Japanese dealers here who will help you locate and ship an older Japanese car that's not subject to DOT/EPA rules. Brian (Akwikz) on this forum recently brought one in from Japan. I bet he would be willing to share his experiences with you.

NOT SOLD! $13,100.00 and the reserve was not met.

I think my previous post contains incorrect information. The following website clearly states that the Bellett was introduced in 1963, the Bellett GT in 1964, and the Bellett GTR in 1969. Sadly, like other great cars of the era, this one suffered its demise due to increasingly stricter emmissions laws and ended production in 1973. http://www.car-mag.jp/contents/historic/bellett.html

There is reference to the 1963 Isuzu Bellet/Bellett GTR in these websites. I believe that the "correct" spelling of the car's name is "Bellett" (with two Ts). http://www.globalcar.com/datasheet/Isuzu/1963IsuzuBellet1600GTRCoupe.htm http://www.ebbro.com/catalogue2002/Isuzu/Oldies/Bellett-GTR/Orange/index.htm The first photo below is from the Ebbro website and is identified as a 1963 Bellett GTR. The other three are from a Yahoo Japan auction for a 1970 Bellett GTR. Did these cars only come in orange or is this just some strange coincidence?

Ho-kay . . . . Japan prices on these just for comparison sake. Be mindful, these prices are for turn-key, running autos. Some are even fully licensed. Car Sensor: Low end - 980,000, 2.0 stock motor. High end - 2,510,000, 2.8 modified motor (triples, cam, exhaust system). 4 car average - 2,119,500, all 2 door GT/GTX with 2.8 motors in various stages of modification. Yahoo Japan: Low end - 1,500,000, 2.8 motor. High end - 3,500,000, 2.8 motor, fully restored. 7 car average - 2,232,710, all 2 door GT/GTX with 2.8 motors in various stages of modification. Here's the link to the 3.5 million yen car. http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r19449875 Well, for $6,600.00 and another $10 - $12,000.00 to get it fixed, it may well be worth 3.5 million yen one day . . .

I have this gut feeling . . . . old Skyline parts are hard to get here in Japan, so they will be much harder to get in the USA. Two very popular ricer racer movies made the relatively unknown Skyline the "must have" car in the US. Importation of the newer Skylines into the US is now at a dead standstill thanks to the only RI successful enough to pass the laws going belly-up. So, you have the perfect mix for a deadly recipe. I HOPE I'M WRONG . . . . . and you ARE RIGHT . . . Mr Camoflage!

Yes, those are the caps for Watanabe Rims. They're expensive - if you can find a set for sale. I've seen them going for over $200.00 a set.

I feel for this poor car. It'll be bought by some hacker and be utterly destroyed. I wish I had the time and money to save it . . . .

Rear end gearing also has an effect on the final drive. I've not tried spinning my tires yet, but I swapped out the F4W71B 4 speed for a FS5W71B 5 speed and lost some off-the-line jump. However, once in third gear, the car moves like a scalded cat. This is with a 3.90 rear end. Funny, though all I've read seems to point out that these are 72 transmissions, and my car is a 71.

Yeah. 4 doors are way UNCOOL . . . . until they blow your doors off. I've taken on several idiots here that don't realize that my way UNCOOL taxi-cab spec 4 door has a six cylinder motor backed by a 5-speed tranny. I don't need to talk trash . . . . the car does it for me.

Lachlan, Take a look at these two boots. I think the second one is what you're looking for. Both are advertised for C110s, but the second one looks more like what remains of the one you have. http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/84727229 http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h35604859

I've seen these on the auctions. Let me check e-Bay and Yahoo Japan.

Aloha, Dome Jim is right. I think only he and Brian have KGC-10s on this forum. I have a GC-10 (see my avatar) . Brian has a lot of information that he would probably share with you. Jim's pretty knowledgeable too. BUT, depending on what exactly you're looking for, others on this board have the answers - be it the C-110s, 240Ks or the S-30s. Everybody here is happy to share information. Just ask. Love your car - it's beautiful.

I can't say for sure, since I didn't do the work, but It looks to me that it can be done without removing the rear crank bearing cap. Looks to me like a "pry out the old and press in the new" procedure, similar to the front crankshaft seal. For what it's worth, here's the series of pictures my mechanic took during the work. Sorry, no techniques or tools shown - must be a secret.

Lachlan, The seal looks like this . . . .

You got that right! $12,982.00 USD

Michael, Here's two links to current C110s for sale in Japan. There are others, but they are either 4-door or have been made up to look like GT-Rs, which I don't think will help your case much. The base unit is in 10,000 JPY, so to get the selling price, make sure you have four digits behind the decimal and then convert the currency from there (eg: 114.5 = 1145000 JPY = 10,000 USD). Hope this helps. http://www.carsensor.net/cgi-bin/CS/CSFBU050.cgi?STID=CS210610&TRCD=TR012&BKKN=K192C40400&SHOP=201720001K http://www.carsensor.net/cgi-bin/CS/CSFBU050.cgi?STID=CS210610&TRCD=TR012&BKKN=G108001958&SHOP=218814001G

The earliest key that I have seen is the one-sided key that looks like a Volkswagen Beetle's - oblong, with one side bigger than the other. Montoya_fan01's picture shows the progression of the keys shapes from left to right, going from round to rectangular to that "new" shape. There are also left-hand and right-hand keys, depending on which side the groove is cut. From what I've experienced, the keys are not interchangable. I bought the later key blank from Nissan, only to find out that it would not work on my car which had the rectangle shaped head. The grooves look very similar, but they don't match up. Luckily, the key shop lady told me this before cutting the keys and I was able to sell the blanks.

I don't know what the economy is like in NZ, but here in Japan, if it was deemed repairable, it would cost over 700,000 JPY ($7,000 USD). I had a small bump and paint scrape and the estimate came in at 70,000 JPY. Thanks to their crazy at-fault laws, I had to settle for 50%, even though HE hit me. Luckily, I got a friendly body shop to fix it for 22,000 JPY. Not to trivialize your loss, but lucky you live there rather than here and can get it fixed for what I consider a reasonable amount. No wonder the Japanese buy new cars rather than fix the damage . . . it's cheaper!

Lachlan, When you get the flywheel machined, have them check the balance. Sometimes, they're a bit out of balance. Also, check your engine rear crankshaft seal and replace that if necessary while the tranny is down. Is this the one that seals to the floor? If it is, the Z one may fit. I think the holes are all about the same.

Not to muddy the waters, but Nissan made a lot of different mirrors. Here's a link to Ishida's Skyline page that shows the different mirrors for the GC10 series Skylines by year and model type. http://www.geocities.co.jp/MotorCity/9047/mirror.html According to his imformation, my car has 2-door GT/GTX mirrors, even though my car is a 4 door.

Nissan changed a lot of the old part numbers when they computerized their parts system. When I go to the Parts Center in Yokohama, if the part number comes up invalid in the computer, the parts man goes to a cross reference book to look up the "new" number. But it still doesn't help if the part is NLA.

Sorry to see the damage. An real good old-time body man should be able to fix it up, though it will cost a pretty penny. I remember seeing one such man putting body filler on the outside of a single-wall pick-up truck bed, and when I looked on the inside, I couldn't see any trace of the dent or hammer marks. When I asked him about it, he just laughed at me . . . . .