72' 240

Hello ValleyZ, Watch that rear hatch gasket for fumes. As your z rolls down the road air/fumes, etc. tumble behind it and amazingly work their way back to you. Also watch the pipe of as well. Anyway, you're right. Most all of us have fought that at some point during z ownership. You'll fix it, then you can tell us where it was and we'll learn from you. 72' 240

280z was fuel injected. Those are probably of the weber family that is highly priced, and much debated. They often come in 3s... "triple webers". Take a close look at your manifold; it may provide the answers that you need. If not, there are plenty on this site that have had far more experience with webers that I. Just be careful not to overlook thier potential. Many think very highly of them. They are, as I said a very expensive "upgrade".

With a new batt & Alt as previously stated as installed, you are (at least for a short while) going to get at 12+ volt reading across the posts. I have pulled more than one bad or weak alt "out of the box" new. I believe that you might need to try yet another "New" (Remanufactured) alt before you get too much more concerned. If you were driving a 240, I would have recommended an internet upgrade that saved my sanity. Those little 50 AMP alts were not enough. I think that the 280s began running 70 AMP alts. Still not great, and by the way, what kind of sound system are you running? Many of the higher output systems drag low alt output, and ultimately burn-up these dime-a-dozen alts. Hope that helps- 72 240

A good quality of ATF is recommended by "ZTherapy". It just happened to be what I had been using for some time. It is great, but a bit thinner so check it every so often. Hope that helps- 72 240

Make Sure You're not pulling air, as in a leak. If you cover the front carb, the engine should struggle at best. Make sure that you still have your brass/copper washers on either side of your fuel inlets where your screens are... (or are not). Good luck- 72240z

Sounds like ignition to me. I don't remember if the 83zx was distributorless or not... I think it was, huh guys? My 240 did the exact same thing with a bad condensor. The condensor's job is to absorb electric energy as the points are apart so the points don't burn up. If no condensor, look towards the electronic module, timing, or even firing order. I hate to suggest it, but if he (the 1st prospective buyer) wanted to buy some time, he could alter your firing order or timing some, and it still would start and idle fairly well. The minute you ask it to rev., however, it will complain.

Makes me angry. Sorry to hear it. If somebody wants them badly enough, they will get em'; I just hope that somebody gets them as well. I'll keep an eye opened in Alabama for you- Frank

Wow, thanks folks. Lots of great thoughts and ideas. Please keep em coming. A truly good education. The speed shop that sold me the MSD Blaster 2 with balast resistor included, told me that the MSD was great with the Mallory dual pt. Oh well! Keep em comin! Thanks! 72 240z

Please see my comments on another thread called: "Bald rear tires". I have no better opinions than anyone else on this great site, I've just dealt with this very problem... very often, and yes 240s have mustache bars. See yous guys! 72' 240z

I'll bet that the rear "clunk" can be taken care of by replacing the "mustache bar" bushings. I know, on visual inspection they look fine. Thing is, they torque with such force, that they cut through the old spongey rubber and leave the exterior looking fairly normal. Motorsport or Vic british can set you up for a reasonable sum, but in the meantime try cutting a hole out of an old steel belted radial tire...( use a hole saw that you don't mind losing), use that circular piece of rubber to create a temporary pad. You will smile at how simple it is really to tighten-up that clunk. I have heard it blamed on lots of things, but most often, it's mustache bar bushings. Remember, the movement is sharpe, and quick at that bushing, and when you finally see the steel pieces that are shinny from constantly hammering against each other behind that old bushing, you may not believe me. Hope that was it. Let me know... 72' 240

Maybe that's why they named them..."Condense-Hers" instead of "condense-hes". I mean if you tend to keep them boxed in, they CAN get grouchy... HA! On a serious note, I am only getting 2-4 weeks out of them. I am one of those running a ZX alternator, and a MSD Blaster. Can this spell condense-her trouble? Frank

Hey fellas, **Non-sufficient point gap- **Too close to engine heat ** I am running a Mallory Dual Pt. Distributor from motorsport on an L28 in my 240Z. (P.S. I wouldn't let go of my old engine. It's in my garage on a palet, and completely wrapped in shrink wrap). No way I,m giving up that L24 block for a measley, very measley core charge. I also added an MSD Blaster coil with balast. The dist. came with a condenser that failed me not long after I upgraded my alternator. Don't think the alt. is at fault as it is a ZX alt./internally regulated. The car does not show any other classic signs of an overly hot alternator. Bulbs, fuses, wiring all seem great Seems like the regulator is doing it's job very well. as a matter of fact the car is running like a bat... My main indication of trouble occurred two nights ago as I was listening to that engine humm along at about 45mph when out of nowhere, it backfires in rapid succession. After that it was fine until I returned home 45 Min. or so later. Next day seemed great then POW!...POW!, and It wanted to stall as I was turning easily out of a street in my subdivision. I was able to save it by choking it back to life, and got her home. I'm willing to bet that one of youz guyz has seen this before...huh?!? Maybe my first real indication of trouble was when it skipped 2-3 times while my son and I were cruising along at about 60; it skipped (and made the tach drop and jump twice very quickly. That screams ignition to me and coupled with the backfiring it seems like ANOTHER condenser... If so , there must be something that I have done or maladjusted to cause the car to devour condensors. Any suggestions anyone?!? Thanks loads! FM

FYI: Mine turned out to be an MSD 8203. Sorry, I just located the paperwork on it.

I am using a MSD Blaster that came from a local speedshop. It was available with an 8 ohm balast resistor. Model 8200; 8203 with resistor. Seems to operate fine; no apparant tach probs.

SUCCESS! SUCCESS! SUCCESS! :laugh: If I remember correctly, that's what the stooges said if they ever got the job done. Well guys, The Z's Back! I finally got everything replaced, readjusted and I'm rolling again! IT WAS A SIMPLE CONDENSER!!! :stupid: If I had just realized at the start that a bad condenser was the problem, it would have been a $7.00 fix, and it would have been over! Well I didn't, and in my own defense, noone else did either. As a result, I "adjusted a few things"; one of which were the points. An outside mechanic suggested that I reduce the gap to 16 thousands. This overworked 3 different condensers, not to mention 2 sets of points. :stupid: Also: Dare I say it, there is a possible design oversight in attaching the condenser only 1/2 inch or so from the exhaust manifold. It is my opinion that placing it there exposes it to extreem heat especially during the summer months, or at anytime that we are stuck in traffic or at lots of long lights. I believe that I may have stumbled on a way to remmidy that situation. I made a heat shield out of some scrap sheet metal that is held in place by the regular screw that normally attaches the condenser to the distributor body. The net gain comes in two ways: It blocks the heat, and it catches the air coming from the fan. This results in a cooler condenser. Thanks for yoyr help with this thread. It has been really good to have your input on this. I believe that it may have been "Beandip" or one of you who made me rethink the electrical side of things again.