72' 240

Hello ValleyZ, Watch that rear hatch gasket for fumes. As your z rolls down the road air/fumes, etc. tumble behind it and amazingly work their way back to you. Also watch the pipe of as well. Anyway, you're right. Most all of us have fought that at some point during z ownership. You'll fix it, then you can tell us where it was and we'll learn from you. 72' 240

280z was fuel injected. Those are probably of the weber family that is highly priced, and much debated. They often come in 3s... "triple webers". Take a close look at your manifold; it may provide the answers that you need. If not, there are plenty on this site that have had far more experience with webers that I. Just be careful not to overlook thier potential. Many think very highly of them. They are, as I said a very expensive "upgrade".

With a new batt & Alt as previously stated as installed, you are (at least for a short while) going to get at 12+ volt reading across the posts. I have pulled more than one bad or weak alt "out of the box" new. I believe that you might need to try yet another "New" (Remanufactured) alt before you get too much more concerned. If you were driving a 240, I would have recommended an internet upgrade that saved my sanity. Those little 50 AMP alts were not enough. I think that the 280s began running 70 AMP alts. Still not great, and by the way, what kind of sound system are you running? Many of the higher output systems drag low alt output, and ultimately burn-up these dime-a-dozen alts. Hope that helps- 72 240

A good quality of ATF is recommended by "ZTherapy". It just happened to be what I had been using for some time. It is great, but a bit thinner so check it every so often. Hope that helps- 72 240

Make Sure You're not pulling air, as in a leak. If you cover the front carb, the engine should struggle at best. Make sure that you still have your brass/copper washers on either side of your fuel inlets where your screens are... (or are not). Good luck- 72240z

Sounds like ignition to me. I don't remember if the 83zx was distributorless or not... I think it was, huh guys? My 240 did the exact same thing with a bad condensor. The condensor's job is to absorb electric energy as the points are apart so the points don't burn up. If no condensor, look towards the electronic module, timing, or even firing order. I hate to suggest it, but if he (the 1st prospective buyer) wanted to buy some time, he could alter your firing order or timing some, and it still would start and idle fairly well. The minute you ask it to rev., however, it will complain.

Makes me angry. Sorry to hear it. If somebody wants them badly enough, they will get em'; I just hope that somebody gets them as well. I'll keep an eye opened in Alabama for you- Frank

Wow, thanks folks. Lots of great thoughts and ideas. Please keep em coming. A truly good education. The speed shop that sold me the MSD Blaster 2 with balast resistor included, told me that the MSD was great with the Mallory dual pt. Oh well! Keep em comin! Thanks! 72 240z

Please see my comments on another thread called: "Bald rear tires". I have no better opinions than anyone else on this great site, I've just dealt with this very problem... very often, and yes 240s have mustache bars. See yous guys! 72' 240z

I'll bet that the rear "clunk" can be taken care of by replacing the "mustache bar" bushings. I know, on visual inspection they look fine. Thing is, they torque with such force, that they cut through the old spongey rubber and leave the exterior looking fairly normal. Motorsport or Vic british can set you up for a reasonable sum, but in the meantime try cutting a hole out of an old steel belted radial tire...( use a hole saw that you don't mind losing), use that circular piece of rubber to create a temporary pad. You will smile at how simple it is really to tighten-up that clunk. I have heard it blamed on lots of things, but most often, it's mustache bar bushings. Remember, the movement is sharpe, and quick at that bushing, and when you finally see the steel pieces that are shinny from constantly hammering against each other behind that old bushing, you may not believe me. Hope that was it. Let me know... 72' 240

Maybe that's why they named them..."Condense-Hers" instead of "condense-hes". I mean if you tend to keep them boxed in, they CAN get grouchy... HA! On a serious note, I am only getting 2-4 weeks out of them. I am one of those running a ZX alternator, and a MSD Blaster. Can this spell condense-her trouble? Frank

Hey fellas, **Non-sufficient point gap- **Too close to engine heat ** I am running a Mallory Dual Pt. Distributor from motorsport on an L28 in my 240Z. (P.S. I wouldn't let go of my old engine. It's in my garage on a palet, and completely wrapped in shrink wrap). No way I,m giving up that L24 block for a measley, very measley core charge. I also added an MSD Blaster coil with balast. The dist. came with a condenser that failed me not long after I upgraded my alternator. Don't think the alt. is at fault as it is a ZX alt./internally regulated. The car does not show any other classic signs of an overly hot alternator. Bulbs, fuses, wiring all seem great Seems like the regulator is doing it's job very well. as a matter of fact the car is running like a bat... My main indication of trouble occurred two nights ago as I was listening to that engine humm along at about 45mph when out of nowhere, it backfires in rapid succession. After that it was fine until I returned home 45 Min. or so later. Next day seemed great then POW!...POW!, and It wanted to stall as I was turning easily out of a street in my subdivision. I was able to save it by choking it back to life, and got her home. I'm willing to bet that one of youz guyz has seen this before...huh?!? Maybe my first real indication of trouble was when it skipped 2-3 times while my son and I were cruising along at about 60; it skipped (and made the tach drop and jump twice very quickly. That screams ignition to me and coupled with the backfiring it seems like ANOTHER condenser... If so , there must be something that I have done or maladjusted to cause the car to devour condensors. Any suggestions anyone?!? Thanks loads! FM

FYI: Mine turned out to be an MSD 8203. Sorry, I just located the paperwork on it.

I am using a MSD Blaster that came from a local speedshop. It was available with an 8 ohm balast resistor. Model 8200; 8203 with resistor. Seems to operate fine; no apparant tach probs.

SUCCESS! SUCCESS! SUCCESS! :laugh: If I remember correctly, that's what the stooges said if they ever got the job done. Well guys, The Z's Back! I finally got everything replaced, readjusted and I'm rolling again! IT WAS A SIMPLE CONDENSER!!! :stupid: If I had just realized at the start that a bad condenser was the problem, it would have been a $7.00 fix, and it would have been over! Well I didn't, and in my own defense, noone else did either. As a result, I "adjusted a few things"; one of which were the points. An outside mechanic suggested that I reduce the gap to 16 thousands. This overworked 3 different condensers, not to mention 2 sets of points. :stupid: Also: Dare I say it, there is a possible design oversight in attaching the condenser only 1/2 inch or so from the exhaust manifold. It is my opinion that placing it there exposes it to extreem heat especially during the summer months, or at anytime that we are stuck in traffic or at lots of long lights. I believe that I may have stumbled on a way to remmidy that situation. I made a heat shield out of some scrap sheet metal that is held in place by the regular screw that normally attaches the condenser to the distributor body. The net gain comes in two ways: It blocks the heat, and it catches the air coming from the fan. This results in a cooler condenser. Thanks for yoyr help with this thread. It has been really good to have your input on this. I believe that it may have been "Beandip" or one of you who made me rethink the electrical side of things again.

SUCCESS! SUCCESS! SUCCESS! If I remember correctly, that's what the stooges said if they ever got the job done. Well guys, The Z's Back! I finally got everything replaced, readjusted and I'm rolling again! IT WAS A SIMPLE CONDENSER!!! If I had just realized at the start that a bad condenser was the problem, it would have been a $7.00 fix, and it would have been over! Well I didn't, and in my own defense, noone else did either. As a result, I "adjusted a few things"; one of which were the points. An outside mechanic suggested that I reduce the gap to 16 thousands. This overworked 3 different condensers, not to mention 2 sets of points. Also: Dare I say it, there is a possible design oversight in attaching the condenser only 1/2 inch or so from the exhaust manifold. It is my opinion that placing it there exposes it to extreem heat especially during the summer months, or at anytime that we are stuck in traffic or at lots of long lights. I believe that I may have stumbled on a way to remmidy that situation. I made a heat shield out of some scrap sheet metal that is held in place by the regular screw that normally attaches the condenser to the distributor body. The net gain comes in two ways: It blocks the heat, and it catches the air coming from the fan. This results in a cooler condenser. Thanks for yoyr help with this thread. It has been really good to have your input on this. I believe that it may have been "Beandip" or one of you who made me rethink the electrical side of things again.

Amen to the guys at Sears on their feelings re. Alt. charging batteries. That is the best way to "wear-out" an alternator. All they are supposed to do, is to supply operating amperage;...and "cap off" batteries that are slightly down from the start-up, etc. Many people destroy othewise good alternators with batteries that will never take enough charge to be at their best, and then add a high performance strero to the mix at that. Don't feel uninformed, most of us have had frustrated "alternator salespeople" stare us down after bringing our third one back (somewhat impatient with the quality of the obviously 2nd rate alternators that they sell). - HA!

Hello again zfellows of cyberland, I have had a great deal of luck with a zx alternator. There is a set of instructions for the proceedure on a nissan tech website, I believe (not a Nissan authorized tech site, just a Nissan "tech" site). It involves keeping the internal regulator and by-passing the external one. This really is relatively easy, and if you do it right, you simply place a "dummy plug" on the harness and alter nothing that is original. The dummy plug in the harness must be wired according to the instructions as to properly reroute the electricity allowing the internally regulated alternator to work. This is accomplished very easily by connecting the colored wires together as instructed, and properly insulating them. The dummy plug simply is the old one from the old or any old 240 regulator that might still be lying around (I seldom throw any old parts, etc. away). There is a diode mounted (stripe towards the alternator) in the primary line to the alternator. This diode is readily available at Radio Shack. To show the car, etc., just remount the original. No harm, no foul (Of course you may not want to power-up the new electric nose hair trimmer/denture cleaner once the old alternator is back on-line). :disappoin Mine has been a great relief, as I am not replacing alternators every few months. I can also add a reasonable number of "add-ons" (stereo, etc) without fear of overload. Heck, I had a 96' maxima SE 5-Speed (loved it), that dimmed everytime I hit the power locks, but never gave me any real trouble however.

Hey Beandip! I'm making progress... I think. I actually drove the car today! I shouldn't get too excited as the plugs quickly fouled, and left me on the side of the road. :disappoin Anyway, now that It is "running" I may be able to lean-out the carbs a bit. I also have a sticking nozzel on the front carb. (That will certainly make it run rich, huh?) I think the choke bar is the secret to that isn't it? Lots more to do before she's 100% I'm afraid. By the way what happened was... As I tightened the nut on the outside of the distributor (the one that the condenser, and coil wire go to) the whole screw shaft rotated inside the distributor, and my point lugs came to within 1/8 inchs of the "plate". This allowed idling, but as I required more "fire", it must haved arched to the plate, and grounded my points! Oh, well... One problem at a time I guess! Thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted. P.S. to Zedrally, Sorr that I didn't get back to you on the vaccuum advance issue. I probably failed to mention that this mallory is a centrifugal advance model. That is a great suggestion however, Thanks!

Beandip, Thanks on all points. It is a "new" (year old) Mallory dual point. It is also a cintrif. advance. I did however substitute the original dist. a couple of weeks back with no success...RATS! :disappoin :disappoin Your thoughts are making me consider your direction relating to wiring at, and inside that bad boy. - Thanks! Cremmenga, sorry for all your frustration. I once had a similar prob. related to Carb. damper oil. Try ATF unless 30 wt. has been good for you. Also make dead sure that those "Mouths" open and close with out imparment. Remove the damper caps, and with your finger just lift them and release them. They should fall easily and completely. Also, atop the "vaccumm bar"?, there is (or used to be in my case) a small round shaped thing that is emloyed by "other" unnessisary) air related gagets to do other things. well one of its effects controlled how quickly (almost damper like)the carbs resumed proper idle speed. ....Some'em just "happened" to mine... I "lost" it sort of... Well all for the better! It was good that I "lost it". Oh, if you happen to "lose" yours also- God forbid, plug the hole, I feel that it would have wanted it that way. Be encouraged, there are alot of us out here with probs. whew!

There are many great ideas for this. I'm not sure how good this one is, but here goes: 1st of all remove your original stuff (kick panels, glove box inner box, etc. Get replacement parts from your nearest salvage yard, (fewer and fewer of them) at pennies on the dollar, or contact a really great source that I've found out in Roseburg Oregon; "Danny's Datsun". Danny has been a well of quality parts and information to me for many years, and maintains a huge used parts inventory, 541-430-1180. Store the original, buy some stuff to cut-on. Quality Speaker boxes can be used in the back without cutting a thing. If you wish, you can leave enough slack in the wires as to allow you to remove them, and place them on the roof as you work on other things. ***(Devise a way to temporarily anchor them. A flying speaker at impact can't be good)*** One thing that I did which works well for me is that I mounted a nice unit in the glove box. Close the box and the entire interior looks, and is "stock". You can do it very easily, hide wires easily, get an accessory console arm rest/glove box, and you're set. Hope this was helpful... Oh, remember, the 50 amp alternator was not neccessarily built for todays high-output stereos. A local alternator/motor rewinding company in town told me that, that is a major concern for those who install excessively large systems in even the modern cars. Safe (fuse box safe) upgrades are out there. Sometimes too much power channeled through these often corroded fuse boxes can melt them down. Reasonable power, adequate wire size, and solid connections make it work. Oh, and... A few dollars, and you can get a thin set of front speakers that will perform, or do what I did, and contruct some spacer rings to make the speakers stand out as opposed to sink in. aaAs you know, the front kick panels only allow approx. 1" (at most) before you're dealing with steel.

There is an EGR. It seems lose enough, and blocks flow in one direction, but they arn't that expensive to slap on, huh? You know those old hoses are rare. Did you note Mike's ("zedrally") comments on wiring, and his condenser. I am a bit uncomfortible with the proximity of the condenser screw, and the thermostat ear & screw. I have placed a thick riece of rubber between them before to guard aginst arching, but who knows... Thanks- 72' 240

Hey Curtis, Not lately; I'll check that out later today. Thanks! 72' 240

O.K. Guys, I own them both. I have a 72' 240 that I dearly love. Like you, I smile every time I "get on it", and admire the power and technology that placed those cars light years beyond almost any comparably priced car of it's era. They were revolutionary by all standards. I also remember smiling with pride as I left the dealership driving that same 240 after having driven the 350z that I ultimately purchased. I smiled because of all the things that NISSAN, (the same NISSAN that Mr. K disguised by calling it "Datsun" to suit this unknown American market), remembered to include from the 350's great great grandfather. I love that car, but surely you weren't expecting 240 technology again in THIS era?!? I was fortunate enough to have found a red "Nismo" 300+ hp 350 with very few of those costly and useless "zx like" cushy things. No GPS, No rag-top, (although they are very nice) nothing cushy. It's stiff, precise, flat in even the hardest corners, quick, fast, and at the same time as sweet as silk. I can approach an 18-wheeler with a passanger (eyes closed) and he, (my father) can't tell you when you are 300 yards back or breaking out of the vortexes that completely scare the @**##** out of me when I try the same in my beloved 240. I've seen it at obscene speeds with 1500 rpms before redline IN 5TH GEAR! Still another gear to go!!! Even more impressive than the small amount of time that it took to get there, was the fact that I was as comfortible as if I were traveling at 80! My brother owned a 72 454 corvette. When he aquired it in 1982 he had it bored, had a high performance cam, an Edelbrock "torquer" manifold, a Holley 870 dual-line carb and a 2.5 inch low resistance exhaust system installed. I drove it all the time. In 1988 it was regarded amoung the fastest production cars ever built (before all his modifications). It would have eaten my precious 240 alive and digested my bones in the process, but my 04' 350 would beat it in almost every category. I still recognize and admire the awesome technology that produced the car that all of us can agree on, the 240z; but I cannot ignore with any integrity, my admiration and my enjoyment of, a car that will run with almost ANYTHING on the road today, and carry the flag for z fans like it does. You guys are great. I really have enjoyed the few short days that I have been a member of this site. You folks really seem to care and want to help each other with problems and share laughs at the same time. I love that! Lets remember that mostly extinct species, and primative cultures eat thier young. Don't be so quick to do so yourselves.

Mike, Thanks for the idea. Yes it helps. Perhaps I have not given enough thought to wiring. There is a mysterious situation regarding the heat sensor wire at the front of the engine. There are apparently 3 resistors in parallel that I am not sure of. I'm not even sure that they should be there. There is some mention of resistance noted, I believe, on the schematic. I obviously am confused about this wire. Let me have your thoughts on it man.