Jeff G 78

I've done dozens of clutch master and slave replacements and only once did I have one that just wouldn't bleed. I tried every method with no success until finally I had a helper tap the master with a screwdriver in rapid fashion while I used a vacuum bleeder on the slave. Sure enough, the air bubble worked its way out of the master and all was good again.

Konigs are made in Thailand.

The brackets are made from very simple materials I bought at Home Depot and cut/welded together. I think they took about an hour to make. I did powder coat the silver one shown. The previous one was painted in black wrinkle finish. Not sure if Photobucket will even let me post any more, but I did find old pics of my street Z's bracket installed.

Several years ago, I posted on here the design of an Optima bracket I made. I have never tried it with a regular battery, but I don't see why it wouldn't work exactly the same with a few simple mods. It doesn't look stock like yours, but it was pretty simple to make. I have one in my street car and another in my race car.

I love this website for figuring out tire size options. Just plug in your OE tire and wheel info and then various options to see how they compare. http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

You can get Konig Rewinds at DiscountTireDirect pretty cheap. I got two sets on sale for $360/set delivered. https://www.discounttiredirect.com/buy-wheels/konig-rewind/p/45470

I too use the TechnoVersion mount on my R200 race car with the black snubber and stock OE mount. I can't comment on the NVH since it's a race car, but I will say that it is much easier to install the RT mount with the diff removed. I did it with the diff still in the car and it was a terrible job. There simply wasn't enough room to get it into place. Again, since it is a race car, I wasn't worried about scratching the paint on the mount or the tunnel and I eventually got it into position, but on a street Z, I would never do it that way again. I would remove the diff and then fit the RT mount. I likely spent way longer than if I would have just dropped the diff in the first place. I think I cut three tiers off the snubber, but I can't remember for sure. It's been a few years since I did it.

You just have to assume the first step on any repair is - remove engine. Most jobs are quicker and much less painful by doing it that way and Porsche made it easy to remove.

Hey Cliff, It's a lowly 996. I can't begin to afford a 993 the way the air cooled prices have gone (can't really afford the 996 either). I really like it, but the horrible Michigan roads are playing hell on it. I need to fix a few rattles that weren't there when I got it. Once I get those taken care of, it will feel rock solid for a 130,000 mile car.

What exactly are you looking for? Machining, assembly, one-stop shop? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Looks great and we all really appreciate the progress pics.

I used a self-adhesive insulation with a foil layer. It's about 1/4" thick and is very durable and sticky. Not sure where to find it though. I've had it for years.

One extra bit of info, the fuel rail mod was not the first thing I tried. I first changed over to an electric fuel pump, then I added insulation to the factory heat shield between the carb bowls and exhaust manifold, third, I propped the hood open a few inches (race car) and finally, I eliminated the steel rail and return line. Each mod likely helped some and the rail was likely the most important, but possibly not enough as a stand-alone mod. A vented hood would likely be a similar improvement in lue of the propped-open hood.

Great looking gadget Randalla. Now we just need better bowl gaskets. The cork ones really suck.

Great looking Z Dr. Dave.

They look great! Are they too bright at night? After the really dim OE bulbs, it would be strange to have lighted gauges.

I bought my '78 280Z 27 years ago in Atlanta, GA and I bought my '74 260Z 8 years ago from Indiana.

The width is based on the "measuring rim width". There is an acceptable rim width range and then a measuring rim width listed in the chart above.

That article was written by my friend Billy Johnson. Great guy and a damn fast racer.

No worries Zed, just trying to help clear things up. I deal with tire sizes every day and it's amazing how many variables there are just in sizing, let alone compounds and constructions. Tire engineering is a black art for sure.

Okay, to help people understand, I went to TireRack.com and copied the specs of two Hankook 225/50R16 tires and a General tire. The first Hankook is a medium performance tire and the second is a max performance summer tire. Note how different the tread widths are between the two tires. Keep in mind, these are both by the same manufacturer and they still vary greatly. The third tire is the same size, but a General. Note again how different the section width and tread widths are. Multiply section width by 25.4 to get the nominal tire width as advertized. The General is small and the Hankooks are much bigger than nominal.

Rob, I'm an automotive engineer. Trust me on this.

Other way around Zed. 205 would be the sidewall. The tread width is always narrower, but some tires are much closer to the sidewall width than others.

Be careful as every car and every brand/model of tire is different. Some cars don't rub and others rub badly. Tires can vary greatly in size depending on the shape of the tire. Some are trapezoidal and others are square. The more trapezoidal the tire, the less chance of rubbing, but also the less tread on the road. Tire widths are measured at the widest part of the sidewall, not at the tread and even then, there is no real standard. Much like tread wear ratings don't mean much.

Gold wheels can look cool, but I think the fad is all but passed. They look good on blue Subarus.