Jeff G 78

Nine years ago during my first 24 hour race with my 260Z, we broke the R180 diff and the only diff I could get my hands on mid-race was a R200. With no R200 mustache bar handy, we modified the R180 mustache bar to fit the R200 diff. This happened at 1am in the rain with practically no fabrication tools. It wasn't easy, but we did get it mounted and got the Z back on the track. Bottom line is that they are indeed very different, but ANYTHING can be made to fit with the right motivation.

The RT615K wasn't the best rain tire. We had a race last year that was very wet and it was like racing on ice. It didn't hydroplane much, but also had little grip. The older RT615 seemed to be better. Overall, I liked the RT615K though and would recommend it

I used to run RT615K's on my race car. Not a bad tire, but pretty out of date now. They haven't made any major changes in about five years, while the competition have all come out with several new versions in that time. Check out the Dunlop Star Spec. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+ZII+Star+Spec&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=245WR6Z2SS&tab=Sizes

I know, I know! I want to get painted Futofab bumpers, but they never have both front and rear.

Link to the one you got? I looked a while back and couldn't find one that worked with an iPhone. I haven't looked lately.

Completely agree. I bought my 16" Panasports about 10 years ago when 15" tire choice was very limited as were wheel choices. I run 225/50R16 tires and they rub and look too big even though they are the exact same OD as the OE 14" tires. I might try 225/45R16 tires next. There are only a few choices in that size, but I think they will fit better. For my race car, I bought 15" Rewinds. The Rewinds are just over 1/3 the price of what I paid for the Panasports. I run tiny OD 225/45R15 tires on those.

That's awesome that they used an eyeball vent to direct airflow. Makes perfect sense!

Hmmm, I might have to make one of those ducts for my race car. It gets pretty toasty.

I started out with a gutted thermostat (Nissan T stat with the valve removed) and the car ran too cold. I then switched to a Fail Safe thermostat and haven't had any problems since. I run a stock mechanical fan and a 3 row copper radiator. I will likely close off quite a bit of the grill opening for better aerodynamics. The grill opening is WAY too big for racing conditions.

Look up Tim Z on HybridZ.org. He runs O rings on his 750 HP turbo Z.

Sorry, no pics handy and my Z isn't at my house. I made the switch in the middle of the race with a few feet of spare fuel hose and some plastic T fittings. It literally took me no more than two minutes to do the swap and get back on the track. I later cleaned it up with proper length hoses and brass fittings, but it still isn't pretty. I need to pull the engine this winter, so I'll tidy it up better, but it's a race car, so I'm not going for aesthetics. Anybody can do the test in minutes and it's completely reversible. You will need about three feet of 1/4" fuel hose, a 1/4x1/4x1/4 T fitting and about 8 hose clamps. Simply pull the hose off the fuel feed pipe above the RH frame rail and replace it with a fuel hose long enough to reach the front carb but don't connect it yet. Add a T fitting to the end and attach a short hose from the T to the front carb and another hose from the T to the rear carb. Insert a small bolt into each of the end of the stock fuel lines. You will need one for the fuel inlet hose you removed from the feed rail, and one for each of the hoses you removed from the carbs. That's it. Just make sure the new rubber hoses are not laying on anything hot or near the fan.

I am an automotive engineer at Ford Performance. About 15 years ago when K&N filters were all the rage, we tested K&N filters as well as various paper filters for both flow and filtration abilities. The stock Ford high performance paper filters flowed better and did a much better job catching fine particles than the K&N filters. We didn't do this testing to prove how good we are, we did it because if the K&N tested better, we would have sourced them. Our 526 HP, 8250 RPM GT350 uses a paper filter because it breathes better. A K&N filter relies on oil to catch the dust and if the filter has too much or too little oil, it will either choke flow or allow debris to pass through. No thanks... BTW, you don't see desert racers or off road motorcycles used K&N filters either. As for K&N's making more power, they are almost always paired with a cold air intake which does indeed make more power than a restrictive OE airbox. Then again, try passing any kind of water fording testing with a cold air intake and see how long the engine lasts. Aftermarket intakes are great, but they come with caveats.

I'm not a big fan of K&N filters. A good paper filter flows just as well and does a much better job of filtration. Buy a stock replacement filter and don't buy the hype.

I have tried several different fuel and chemical approved epoxies and I have yet to find one that really works on sending units. My late 260Z race car hasn't had a working fuel gauge for years because I have never found an epoxy that will hold up to constant fuel contact. I would love to get it working again if somebody has a sure fix. My sender was leaking through the terminals.

Yep, that photo was taken during a 14 hour race. We fought vapor lock issues early in the race and dropped to 35th place. After ditching the OE fuel rail (see vapor lock thread), we stormed back and finished in 9th place just ahead of the Celica in the picture. The photo was taken at the tightest corner of Nelson Ledges in NE Ohio. Thankfully, the Z corners much flatter than that Celica.

Hey, it's mine! Here's an action shot a few years after that picture was taken. We will be making a lot of changes this winter, so I should have some good pics next summer to post.

I haven't seen any Z activity from Don in many, many years. I believe he got out of Z's, but I'm not sure. He was very active on the IZCC mailing list during the early years of the internet.

Looking great!

Completely safe. The engine won't know the difference.

Perfect! That's exactly what I was looking for. Who did you order them through? I went with Discount Tire Direct and got a great deal. $360/set delivered!

Yeah, I know all about the fitment to the car, just not the fit to the Rewind wheel. I assume you mean the three ribs in the top left pic? BTW, what lugnuts did you use with your Rewinds? Mine is a race car, so open is fine.

Was it a minor modification needed Marty? How much did you need to remove from the caliper? I'm going to do the vented setup this winter with 15x7 Rewinds.

It will be fine. The later cars don't have that circuit and are basically blocked at the same points. I have been running my race car that way for years just like Cliff showed.

You can rebuild your caliper as long as the bore is in decent shape. It's really odd that there are no LR calipers left. I was surprised to read your post, so I did my own search and found the same thing you did. As far as I know, the S130 calipers are unique to that car.

Sounds like the AAR is your problem. It needs to be closed when warm or the idle will be high. Block off the air line to the AAR and see what your idle does.