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Jeff G 78

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Everything posted by Jeff G 78

  1. Hmmm, I might have to make one of those ducts for my race car. It gets pretty toasty.
  2. I started out with a gutted thermostat (Nissan T stat with the valve removed) and the car ran too cold. I then switched to a Fail Safe thermostat and haven't had any problems since. I run a stock mechanical fan and a 3 row copper radiator. I will likely close off quite a bit of the grill opening for better aerodynamics. The grill opening is WAY too big for racing conditions.
  3. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Wanted
    Look up Tim Z on HybridZ.org. He runs O rings on his 750 HP turbo Z.
  4. Sorry, no pics handy and my Z isn't at my house. I made the switch in the middle of the race with a few feet of spare fuel hose and some plastic T fittings. It literally took me no more than two minutes to do the swap and get back on the track. I later cleaned it up with proper length hoses and brass fittings, but it still isn't pretty. I need to pull the engine this winter, so I'll tidy it up better, but it's a race car, so I'm not going for aesthetics. Anybody can do the test in minutes and it's completely reversible. You will need about three feet of 1/4" fuel hose, a 1/4x1/4x1/4 T fitting and about 8 hose clamps. Simply pull the hose off the fuel feed pipe above the RH frame rail and replace it with a fuel hose long enough to reach the front carb but don't connect it yet. Add a T fitting to the end and attach a short hose from the T to the front carb and another hose from the T to the rear carb. Insert a small bolt into each of the end of the stock fuel lines. You will need one for the fuel inlet hose you removed from the feed rail, and one for each of the hoses you removed from the carbs. That's it. Just make sure the new rubber hoses are not laying on anything hot or near the fan.
  5. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    I am an automotive engineer at Ford Performance. About 15 years ago when K&N filters were all the rage, we tested K&N filters as well as various paper filters for both flow and filtration abilities. The stock Ford high performance paper filters flowed better and did a much better job catching fine particles than the K&N filters. We didn't do this testing to prove how good we are, we did it because if the K&N tested better, we would have sourced them. Our 526 HP, 8250 RPM GT350 uses a paper filter because it breathes better. A K&N filter relies on oil to catch the dust and if the filter has too much or too little oil, it will either choke flow or allow debris to pass through. No thanks... BTW, you don't see desert racers or off road motorcycles used K&N filters either. As for K&N's making more power, they are almost always paired with a cold air intake which does indeed make more power than a restrictive OE airbox. Then again, try passing any kind of water fording testing with a cold air intake and see how long the engine lasts. Aftermarket intakes are great, but they come with caveats.
  6. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    I'm not a big fan of K&N filters. A good paper filter flows just as well and does a much better job of filtration. Buy a stock replacement filter and don't buy the hype.
  7. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    I have tried several different fuel and chemical approved epoxies and I have yet to find one that really works on sending units. My late 260Z race car hasn't had a working fuel gauge for years because I have never found an epoxy that will hold up to constant fuel contact. I would love to get it working again if somebody has a sure fix. My sender was leaking through the terminals.
  8. Yep, that photo was taken during a 14 hour race. We fought vapor lock issues early in the race and dropped to 35th place. After ditching the OE fuel rail (see vapor lock thread), we stormed back and finished in 9th place just ahead of the Celica in the picture. The photo was taken at the tightest corner of Nelson Ledges in NE Ohio. Thankfully, the Z corners much flatter than that Celica.
  9. Hey, it's mine! Here's an action shot a few years after that picture was taken. We will be making a lot of changes this winter, so I should have some good pics next summer to post.
  10. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I haven't seen any Z activity from Don in many, many years. I believe he got out of Z's, but I'm not sure. He was very active on the IZCC mailing list during the early years of the internet.
  11. Looking great!
  12. Completely safe. The engine won't know the difference.
  13. Perfect! That's exactly what I was looking for. Who did you order them through? I went with Discount Tire Direct and got a great deal. $360/set delivered!
  14. Yeah, I know all about the fitment to the car, just not the fit to the Rewind wheel. I assume you mean the three ribs in the top left pic? BTW, what lugnuts did you use with your Rewinds? Mine is a race car, so open is fine.
  15. Was it a minor modification needed Marty? How much did you need to remove from the caliper? I'm going to do the vented setup this winter with 15x7 Rewinds.
  16. It will be fine. The later cars don't have that circuit and are basically blocked at the same points. I have been running my race car that way for years just like Cliff showed.
  17. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    You can rebuild your caliper as long as the bore is in decent shape. It's really odd that there are no LR calipers left. I was surprised to read your post, so I did my own search and found the same thing you did. As far as I know, the S130 calipers are unique to that car.
  18. Sounds like the AAR is your problem. It needs to be closed when warm or the idle will be high. Block off the air line to the AAR and see what your idle does.
  19. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Yes, the 2002 Boxster like the 911 has the single row IMS bearing that is at the highest risk of failure. You can install a LN Engineering bearing, but the job isn't cheap or easy. It is usually done during a clutch replacement since the trans has to be removed for both jobs. There are two special tools needed that cost close to $1000. If you can't find loaner tools, your best bet is to have a Porsche specialist do the work. I was quoted $2500 for the job when I was looking at a car that hadn't yet been done. The bearing and tools needed cost over $1600, so if you have to buy the tools, it's not really cost effective to do it yourself. Some people never replace the IMS and take their chances. The failure rate is about 9% and if it fails, the engine is junk.
  20. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    One thing I forgot to mention is that I bought my 996 from Arizona. I had a trusted mechanic friend, that happened to be in AZ at the time on business, drive the car and inspect it. After making a deal and buying the car, my wife and I flew from Michigan to AZ and drove the car home after spending a few days driving it to Sedona and the Grand Canyon. We put about 3000 miles on it between the vacation and trip across the country. We left the Grand Canyon on April 1st and immediately ran into a blinding snow storm around Flagstaff. Luckily, we made it through the storm before the roads got too slippery. The wide summer tires did just fine in the blustery snow and mid-20° temps.
  21. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Thanks Cliff. The 993's are worth way more than the lowly 996, but in reality, the 996 is a better car in most ways.
  22. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I have been a Z enthusiast for over 30 years. I currently have a street Z and a race Z and this spring, I bought a 2003 996 C2 as a summer daily driver. My 996 had 120,000 miles when I bought it and now has over 128,000 miles after 7 months of ownership. 996's can be great cars or never-ending money pits. So far, mine has been trouble-free. My 996 had the IMS bearing upgraded to the LN ceramic bearing at 102k along with a new clutch and magnetic drain plug. Like you said, if the engine grenades, it could cost as much or more than the car is worth to rebuild it. What I love about the 996 is that it feels like a modern car with modern conveniences yet it feels a lot like a Z in that it is light and nimble. If you can find a good 996 with good service records, go for it - assuming you are willing to potentially lose a lot of money if the engine goes boom. I can rebuild a Z motor for $1000 while the 996 can cost 20 times that much.
  23. Jeff G 78 posted a post in a topic in Racing
    +1 on the Porterfield pads. They will make them for the Toyota pattern.
  24. No problem. I saw zero difference in how it ran with and without a return other than the slight change in when vapor lock occurred.
  25. Jonathan, I do not run a return line. Before I ditched the rail, I actually found that the return was part of the problem. When I clamped the return hose, I could prolong the onset of the vapor lock condition. I don't have any pics handy but I might be able to take a few this weekend Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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