Jeff G 78

Yes, the 2002 Boxster like the 911 has the single row IMS bearing that is at the highest risk of failure. You can install a LN Engineering bearing, but the job isn't cheap or easy. It is usually done during a clutch replacement since the trans has to be removed for both jobs. There are two special tools needed that cost close to $1000. If you can't find loaner tools, your best bet is to have a Porsche specialist do the work. I was quoted $2500 for the job when I was looking at a car that hadn't yet been done. The bearing and tools needed cost over $1600, so if you have to buy the tools, it's not really cost effective to do it yourself. Some people never replace the IMS and take their chances. The failure rate is about 9% and if it fails, the engine is junk.

One thing I forgot to mention is that I bought my 996 from Arizona. I had a trusted mechanic friend, that happened to be in AZ at the time on business, drive the car and inspect it. After making a deal and buying the car, my wife and I flew from Michigan to AZ and drove the car home after spending a few days driving it to Sedona and the Grand Canyon. We put about 3000 miles on it between the vacation and trip across the country. We left the Grand Canyon on April 1st and immediately ran into a blinding snow storm around Flagstaff. Luckily, we made it through the storm before the roads got too slippery. The wide summer tires did just fine in the blustery snow and mid-20° temps.

Thanks Cliff. The 993's are worth way more than the lowly 996, but in reality, the 996 is a better car in most ways.

I have been a Z enthusiast for over 30 years. I currently have a street Z and a race Z and this spring, I bought a 2003 996 C2 as a summer daily driver. My 996 had 120,000 miles when I bought it and now has over 128,000 miles after 7 months of ownership. 996's can be great cars or never-ending money pits. So far, mine has been trouble-free. My 996 had the IMS bearing upgraded to the LN ceramic bearing at 102k along with a new clutch and magnetic drain plug. Like you said, if the engine grenades, it could cost as much or more than the car is worth to rebuild it. What I love about the 996 is that it feels like a modern car with modern conveniences yet it feels a lot like a Z in that it is light and nimble. If you can find a good 996 with good service records, go for it - assuming you are willing to potentially lose a lot of money if the engine goes boom. I can rebuild a Z motor for $1000 while the 996 can cost 20 times that much.

+1 on the Porterfield pads. They will make them for the Toyota pattern.

No problem. I saw zero difference in how it ran with and without a return other than the slight change in when vapor lock occurred.

Jonathan, I do not run a return line. Before I ditched the rail, I actually found that the return was part of the problem. When I clamped the return hose, I could prolong the onset of the vapor lock condition. I don't have any pics handy but I might be able to take a few this weekend Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

It might work as long as you verify that the manifold hole lines up exactly with the stud. It is entirely possible that they are not exactly lined up.

Drill and extract and then insert a Helicoil.

No, I never tried a two line setup Mark. I should have one laying around, but I never really thought about it before you brought it up.

Mark, my carbs are '72 three screw round tops while the intake and fuel rail are/were late '74 and were three-line. The water lines are gone from the intake.

I thought about doing that, but the isolators would have to be able to handle very high temps. The bolts would also have to be isolated, otherwise the heat would still transfer. I'm sure it could be done, but I decided to just remove the steel rail and keep it all rubber.

My endurance racer 260Z with round tops was a disaster until I rerouted the fuel line and used all rubber. We tried an electric pump, return line, no return line, heat shielding everywhere, and even running without the hood. None of the changes helped under racing conditions. I even swapped to a different set of carbs mid-race with no improvement. Finally in one race, I pitted and installed a rubber hose, bypassing the steel rail. The car ran flawlessly for the next 9 hours of the race. We fought back from 35th place to 9th place. I am convinced that the only real fix is eliminating the heat transmitted through the fuel rail mounts. The heat shielding, electric pump, and hood venting likely help, but only the rubber fuel supply eliminated the issue. We still run the shielding and the electric pump along with the back of the hood propped up a few inches just to be safe. My biggest surprise was the lack of improvement with the hood removed.

Not to add to the confusion, but you might want to also check out Web Racing Camshafts. They are well-respected and can offer advice based on your setup.

I didn't see the episode, but I'm sure I'll see it eventually in reruns. Was it an actual auction, or was it a mail-in request that they do before/after a commercial? How did the car look? If it was an actual auction, what auction house and what did it bring?

Is that corrosion/rot in the #1 chamber between the valves? I can't tell what I'm seeing. I guess the dowels were keeping it stuck...

Sometimes you get lucky with head bolts. Once the head is off, they sometimes back right out. Soak it with penetrating oil and then drill and extract. A good welder can tack weld a small bolt to the broken piece for removal too.

Unfortunately, another vendor will no longer be serving the Z community. Black Dragon Auto has announced that as of the December 31, 2016, they are done with Datsuns. They were never the best, but I have bought a lot of parts from them over the years. It was always nice to have options.

Is it just an optical illusion that the passenger side head bolts appear to still be in place? I know you said you removed them, but I swear I see them in the second pic. Edit: Nevermind... I put on my glasses and can now see for sure that they are out. I've had them stick, but never to the extent that I couldn't get it off without a good yank by hand. The front small bolts are usually the culprit, but you said you got them. Try using a 2x4 across the car as a lever arm. Place one end of the board on the RH strut tower top mount nuts and place a very short ratchet strap over the 2x4 with both ends hooked to the front lifting eye. Lift the opposite end of the 2x4 up GENTLY to unstick it.

Should be a simple fix. The timing is controlled by the shaft which is geared to the crank, so you don't need to worry about messing up the timing. It can only go back together one way. I'd remove the two bolts that hold the distributor base onto the front cover and pull the whole thing out since you will need to extract the adjustment bolt anyways. Is part of the bolt still in the distributor mount? Once pulled, you might get lucky and screw it out the bottom. Soak it in PB Blaster and let it sit for a bit before attempting to get it out. If it is frozen, you will need to carefully drill and tap to extract it and clean the threads. The bolt is a 6mm x 1.25 with a 10mm hex head. Center punch a dimple as close as possible to the center of the broken bolt and then drill through it with a very small bit. Redrill with larger bits until you are near the threads. At this point, the bolt will usually come out with a bolt extractor. Hit the threads of the base with a 6mm x 1.25 tap and install a new bolt. The P/N is on the side of the distributor and can be seen once removed.

I've never thought twice about that part. I guess I will inspect it from now on anytime a trans is out.

The input shaft didn't have much, if any extra play Zed. I was surprised to see the broken sleeve as I haven't seen a failure like that before. If appeared to have broken right at the front cover, though I didn't study it close enough to see if it fatigued from flex. I donated a 4 speed to Al for the front cover and whatever internals he can use. Hopefully all goes well with the rebuild.

Thanks Zed! Sorry @Arne, you will never be forgotten around here.

I actually didn't Matt. I sold my Z local and then it was sold local again to a guy who moved to France and took it with him. We did have a member here who sold his 240Z to a foreign buyer. He's not around the forum any longer after buying a 911 to replace his Z. I'm drawing a complete blank on his name, but I'm sure somebody will chime in and post it.