Jeff G 78

I have the system on my 260Z and another awaiting install on my 280Z. I couldn't get the angle anywhere close to what is pictured. I tried and tried to get it angled right with no luck. I tried turning the muffler end for end several times and ended up having the best results with an offset inlet and a center outlet. When I tried it the other way, the muffler can crashed into the body (might have been the bumper shock?). It's a race car so I really didn't care, but I'm hoping it fits better on my street Z. Also, they changed the kit. I bought the first kit in 2013 and the second kit in 2015. The first kit's muffler was a Dynomax and the tip was a really nice, heavy part with a rolled end. The new kit I got came with a no-name muffler and a cheap chrome tip. I will probably swap the tips between the race car and street car.

Mine looks just like Jim's, though about 1% as pretty.

I love the sound of triples! I need a set of them in my life again someday.

I might be in for a set too. I'm tired of looking at my park benches and the Futofab bumpers are looking very nice.

I like the removable key since it's an easy way to ensure nobody accidentally tries to start the car or power it up. With several teammates working around the car, weird things can happen. It also serves as a crude anti-theft device since the car has no traditional key.

Uggghhh. No thanks. I plan to do some sort of disc upgrade on my race car. It's not that the disc setup is better, but keeping the drums adjusted properly during an endurance race is a pain in the arse. I'd much rather worry about other things during a race.

I gave up on the folding hoists and bought a fixed leg hoist. I never had enough reach even with the bumper removed. Now, I leave the bumper on and have plenty of room to spare. I simply disassemble the hoist for storage.

Sometimes, they just don't want to come out. My '78 required a giant press as well. Glad Dave got it out.

Congrats Cliff! For me, the hardest part every time is getting the engine mount bolts started. Those four bolts take longer that the rest of the job - at least on my 260Z. I can't ever remember having a difficult time on the other 10 or so S30's I've done, but the one car I pull the engine constantly is the one that I struggle with.

The starter is easy to get to after the powertrain is installed.

Cliff, if you look at me pic again you will see what I use. I have double stacked 2x10 ramps to lift the car so I can fit the floor jack. They work great for many things. Each ramp has a shorter board nailed on top of a longer board and both are cut at a 45 so it's easier to drive the car onto them. My race car is lowered and then the tires are about 1.5" shorter than stock to getting a jack (or hoist legs) under the car isn't possible without them. Good luck!

Well DUH! The car was obviously in Australia where everything is upside down.

Very cool Guy.

That was a few years ago before I got the leveler but the angle is usually similar to clear the tunnel.

Hey Cliff. Yes, run the crank most of the way one way and then level it with the chains. That will allow it to get more angle before running out of travel. The engine needs to be very steep to clear the tunnel.

The higher you can get the rear, the better. The front just needs to be high enough for the engine hoist legs to fit. If you are using a load leveler on the hoist, cheat it all the way to the front before you hook it up so you can get maximum angle on the engine. Good luck Cliff. Wish I was there to give you a hand.

I am picturing the old Looney Toones cartoon depicting a toothpick factory where each toothpick is ground down from a giant redwood tree.

That's pretty much what I run in my race car and I use the stock pan. I have no oiling issues.

Put several layers of protective tape on the hood latch assembly and wrap it down into the tunnel to protect your paint. Also remove your hood prop rod and tape a WD40 cap over the prop rod spring clip. Many clips have snapped off from oil pans catching them.

Hey Cliff, you might want to dry fit the header first with the intake just to make sure you know that the thick washers seat right, the nuts can be started and that you know what tool works best at each location before you drop the engine in. You don't want to fight the header and wind up with leaks. Good luck! I have installed the whole shebang alone and it can be done, though in my race car, I'm not worried about a paint scuff here and there like I would be on a nice street Z. It's really hard not to touch the hood latch and the top of the tunnel with the valve cover. When I powder coat my valve cover, I will wait to install it until after the engine is in. I have lots of old covers to use for installation.

I always look forward to seeing pics of Guy's collection. I haven't done much with the Z cars lately since spring hasn't sprung here yet, but I did pick up a new toy. I bought a 996 and drove it 2000 miles home from Phoenix.

I haven't heard much good about the MSA dampers. I believe Guy @Diseazd has some info on them.

What's your plan to keep the timing right with the shave? Are you going to use shims under the towers or adjust the timing and chain? If you do the latter, PM me and I'll tell you exactly how I did mine. I shaved 0.50" and didn't use tower shims.

It depends how original you want it and which is easier to form. You can either shape the replacement floor pan to fit the 280 tunnel or shape the tunnel like the 240 to better fit the floor pan.

Racers are all too aware of the 260/280 floorpan hump on the driver's side. We have to cut the hump out to fit a race seat lower than the stock seat.