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Jeff G 78

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Everything posted by Jeff G 78

  1. The fuse box would still be in the way on the passenger side.
  2. I know that the OP's panels were already installed, but if they weren't installed yet, what about applying a coating of Plasti Dip to the mating surfaces prior to installation? Has anybody tried it?
  3. Guy likes every color 240. When they are restored as beautifully as Guy's cars, they look great in any color.
  4. I've seen lots of 4" speakers in the front wings of the console and they all looked and sounded cheap. Speakers need a solid surface to mount to and the thin plastic console isn't very stiff.
  5. Yeah, I would have bought these for my '78 if available. I have only rear speakers and it really needs something up front.
  6. Great looking car! I still think it's interesting how all of the late 260's and 280Z's have a crooked LH grille turn signal. Both of my cars look that way and I've seen lots of photos on this site and others with the same crooked signal. You have to wonder how it slipped through the QC process for so many model years.
  7. I run them on my 10:1 CR street Z. At the time I bought them close to 20 years ago, they came with lousy rings. I've heard the rings are now better.
  8. I didn't touch the Z today, but I did buy two sets of 15x7 Konig Rewind wheels for the race car. They are $100 off at Discount Tire Direct with free shipping. $360/set after rebate.
  9. Not sure what you paid, but the '70 looks pretty solid. How are the floors and rails?
  10. Yeah, the rule is that you can't tease us with a new purchase and not post pics. Congrats.
  11. It might be in Japan, but it looks like a LHD 240Z,
  12. I drained the water from my race car's radiator yesterday and filled it with 50/50 just in time for the cold weather this weekend.
  13. Here you go. http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ One important note is that Dave's harness is a plug and play for a 240Z. Talk to Dave directly about the mods needed for a 280Z. I believe it can be done, it isn't quite as easy though. I don't believe he can source the 280Z connectors. Here is Dave's email. info@datsun-240z-upgrades.net
  14. Thanks Patcon. You got to it before I could.
  15. Look into wiring upgrades before headlamp upgrades, Dave Irwin has what you need.
  16. Nice looking repair. Thanks for posting and enjoy your beautiful Z.
  17. What is the seller advertising the XS3 VIN car as?
  18. It should be a 1970 240Z with the HLS30-04044 VIN. Can you post a picture? I have no idea what the other VIN is.
  19. Will do Jonathan. I just measured the hex size and it is 1-5/8. On Amazon, I found a single 1-5/8" wrench for about $16. HF only has wrench sets in the jumbo sizes at a much higher cost. If there is anybody on the forum that has an immediate need for a puller, please let me know. I could loan my prototype out to get quicker feedback. It will be a few months before I have a chance to try it out on my own spindle pins. Feedback now would allow me to make changes over winter while I have more time. Once spring comes, I'll be busy working on my cars.
  20. Yeah, I was going to check out HF for big wrenches. It's not like the wrench needs to be high quality and it will get very little use. Powdercoating makes everything shiny though! I can easily powdercoat the pipe. I have access to the sandblast cabinet, powder gun and oven. The powder cost is near zero per tube. The process just adds a bit of extra labor.
  21. A socket wouldn't work since the nut threads about 9" onto the rod. A big box end wrench would be needed. Alternately, the nut could be turned into a big wing nut with some fabrication work.
  22. That's kind of my plan Mike. The materials are pricey, so it wouldn't be a cheap tool, but if it works better than what's out there, I might make a batch here and there to help the community. I doubt I could make any money at all on them since quality acme rod stock and acme nuts are not cheap. The labor wouldn't be too bad when built in batches, but each tool does require machining, welding, and also powdercoating if I sell them. The key is the testing to see if the tool works as planned. I have one car that has never been apart and another set of spare rear corner assemblies that are virgin and from a VERY rusty car. If the tool works on all four, I will make more prototypes for sure and figure out how much I'd have to charge. I'd guess the price to be around $80 - $100. One issue I see is that the acme nut is huge and most people wouldn't have a wrench big enough to fit it. From memory, it is something like a 1-1/2" hex. If the tool works and I sell zero, I will be happy. If I sell 10 and help others, that's even better. If the tool breaks or doesn't work and I cannot modify it to function properly, I am still glad I tried.
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