Jeff G 78

Yeah, the first one I bought was a single seam and it was awesome. For my next Z, I went back to the same auto parts store (a year or so later) and went to the same rack and bought what I thought was the same thing. The price was about the same as before. When I went to put it on, I immediately noticed how much thinner it was and that there were three seams. It was thin enough that there were bulges at each seam when installed. I left it on and used it, but it was never as nice. The third time I needed one (for a Toyota 4x4), I tried a different store and found that some on the rack were singe and others were triple seam. The single seam ones were more expensive, but much thicker leather.

I had Wheelskins covers on several Z cars in the past. They make different quality covers, so if anybody gets one, make sure it is a one-seam leather rather than a three-seam leather wrap. The single-seam cover is much thicker and higher quality leather. I agree that the single-seam one fit perfect and was very high quality. The three-seam cover was just OK.

I got my new OE and RT diff mounts installed, put my new seat harness in, and got the brake ducts partially done. Back at it tomorrow. I need to tune the carbs with my new wide band O2, finish the brake ducts, and tidy up a few last things before my track day next week.

I got the new OE mount and RT mount installed today. Beautiful mount, but it sure wasn't easy to install. I think it would have been easier to pull the diff, but I managed to get it in by just removing the crossmember, lowering the swaybar, dropping the exhaust hanger, and flexing the RT mount just a bit. The RT mount makes tightening the OE mount bolts very difficult. Again, had I removed the diff, I could have installed the OE mount to the diff first, then put the RT mount in place. The diff would then go back in. I cut three sections off the snubber. I started with two, but it was preloaded with the mounts in place. I pulled it back apart and cut the third section. That left a gap of about 3/16". I'm very happy with the results.

My RT mount arrived today, so I will install it along with the OE mount tomorrow morning. I really want to thank Technoversions for a great looking product and very fast delivery. Their website said that they would not be shipping any orders for about a two week period, but I asked them in the order notes if they could ship it quickly upon their return. Rather than wait, they shipped it right away 2-day express mail. I got it in time to install it prior to my track day and race. I would recommend them to all S30 owners. I have torn OE mounts on every Z I have ever owned and this product should cure the Nissan design flaw once and for good. I will purchase another RT mount from Technoversions for my street Z. Great company! By the end of the weekend, I should be ready for the track.

That's a pretty sweet looking mount.

I repacked my front wheel bearings today and removed the dust shields in preparation for brake ducts.

I ended up ordering an OE mount and the regular RT mount. I got some feedback from another Z owner that the top-down mount that replaces the OE mount didn't fit right. I'd still love to hear any feedback on the top-down mount. I still have to install an RT on my street Z. Timing was bad though. TechnoVersions isn't shipping anything between 8/3 and 8/14. Of course right when I need it to ship.

I have 2500+ race miles on my 40+ year old studs.

My only worry is that the Dorman studs are probably crappy Chinese steel rather than the good, but now 40+ year old OE studs I have.

I just posted a new thread about RT mounts. Do you have the basic RT or does it also replace the stock mount with the top-down front mount?

Hey gang, I just found a broken front diff mount today on my race car, so rather than destroy another stock mount I thought I would install the RT mount by Techno Versions. I did a search, but couldn't find a definitive answer on whether or not to include the Energy Suspension mount or not. I saw a thread a while back about added vibrations due to a different driveshaft angle, but there was no follow-up stating if the mount was the issue. I have to get the car back together soon as I have a race coming up in a few weeks. Can the poly top-down mount be modified, or should I just order an OEM mount and the RT mount with the snubber? http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html

That's funny, I too replaced the front and rear studs on my 260Z race car today with Dorman studs. I went with stock length though. I also found a broken front differential mount. I need to get a RT mount.

You could go JY hunting for another cartridge strut with the same diameter from a more common car and then cut and section the new top onto the damaged S30 strut.

Numbers on the doors!

The C clamp style works well for what you need to do, but in the future, at some point, you will need to pull the springs with the head on the engine and you will wish you had style #1. When the head is off and I need to pull the springs, I have a plywood "workbench" that has two holes drilled in it that match the end two head bolt holes. I have a small wood block trimmed to the right size and thickness to hold the valves closed and then I bolt the head to the bench using carriage bolts and woodworking wingnuts. I can then easily remove the springs and valves. One downside of the style #1 tool is that it is very hard to use with performance valve springs. It works great on stock springs, but the springs next to the towers do not leave enough room to get a square bite on the spring cap and compress it. I have always gotten it to work, but not without a lot of swearing.

I fabricated an Optima battery hold-down bracket for my race car, installed an O2 bung and made some L brackets to install headlight covers to the buckets. A few days ago, I powder coated the mustache bar while I have it out for new bushings. Tomorrow, we should get the engine back in and the mustache bar installed.

A quick internet search didn't help. I found people claiming everything from zero to +12mm for the six spoke wheels. I would trust the zero claim the most since the site listed the offsets and weights for many of the common stock and aftermarket Z wheels.

No, but I'd guess between zero and +6mm.

Tom, This website should help you understand. Play with the offsets and watch the graphic. http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

Positive offset pushes the wheel inward and has a more flush face look. Negative offset gives the wheel a deeper dish. Modern cars have +40 - +60 offset. Near zero offsets are extremely rare these days.

Correct. The bearings do not know the difference. The loads would be exactly the same as if you use zero offset wheels.

I'll try Steve. Over the last few years I have spent all of my (very limited) Z time and money on the race car. My street Z has not come off the dollies or out from under the cover in two years. I stored it for winter and never woke it up after winter. I hope the fuel stabilizer is still doing its job. I really wanted to get it out this year, but once again, the house and race car took priority. Maybe after my race next month I will try to get it out for a month before it gets stored again for winter.

Hmmm, Toronto is only fours hours away. I might be able to make it.

I'm a bit confused Zed. Drums get BIGGER as they get worn and when turned. Why would the shoes be made for bigger drums?