Jeff G 78

Yeah, I love old Yotas too. I've had seven of them over the years. I'm truckless right now though after a woman hit me in January and totaled my Tacoma. It's the first time in about 20 years I haven't owned one.

Gas tank cleaning isn't a simple procedure. I've done a few tanks and they each took about 20 man hours to do them right. There is nothing wrong with the POR-15 kit, but it can't do miracles. The tank must be 90% cleaned with other methods before using the kit. I start with water. Rinse the tank out many, many times to flush the big stuff out. I then switch to a 1/2 gallon muriatic acid and 1/2 gallon water solution with a few lengths of chain and roll, shake, flip, and roll the tank. After 20 - 30 minutes of shaking, fill the tank with water to weaken the solution and pour the contents out. Rinse with water for another 15 minutes and start the acid wash process over again. It takes at least two gallons of acid (4 washes) to get the tank clean. This is a two man job and takes many hours of back breaking work to complete. Only after this cleaning is finished and the tank looks clean should you start the POR cleaning. The POR 15 directions MUST be followed to the letter. If you are not willing to take the time, don't start the job at all. You will waste time and money and ruin your tank. The POR process takes another few days to complete. I can't stress enough that the tank must be 100% free of moisture before you apply the sealer. Drying time varies by temperature and humidity, but figure 24 hours on average with hot air. I used compressed air followed by a heat gun and then switched to a fan blowing air into the tank overnight. The tank must be turned and rolled during the drying process too or moisture will be trapped. For areas that are hard to dry, you can use a 500W halogen lamp aimed at the area on the outside of the tank placed about 10" from the tank. The heat from the light will help dry the tank. The first tank I cleaned was more typical of most tanks, but the second tank was probably worse than most people would ever attempt to clean. Both tanks came out like new and are still in use 10 and 5 years respectively after cleaning and sealing. The hardest part of the process is getting the sealer off the pickup screen. Use dry compressed air to blow through the fuel supply and return lines after the sealer is applied. There should be very little back pressure. If there is, the screen is likely clogged with sealer and will cause problems with fuel delivery. 280 tank before cleaning 280 tank after cleaning 280 tank after sealing 260 tank before cleaning 260 tank gunk that came out after water rinse 260 tank after muriatic acid cleaning 260 tank after POR cleaning 260 tank after POR sealing

Glad to see you again Arne. Stop by anytime and say hi. Glad to hear you are having fun in the 911. I've always wanted one, but the prices have gone through the roof in the past few years.

In Sweden you likely had 98 RON which is the same as our 93. In the US, we use the (RON + MON) / 2 method of calculating octane while Europe just uses RON. I have no idea why the methods are different, but the octane rating is actually about the same here and there. I run a Web Racing #91 cam and I really like it. The engine pulls strong to 7,000 RPM. My cam is .450 lift and 280° duration. It was a new billet so I can run OE lash pads. I bought new rockers and lash pads, but I believe people have had good luck reconditioning the rockers at a much lower cost. I paid about $12 each for my rockers 20 years ago. You can't go wrong with Rebello, but remember that speed costs money.

Where do you live? The western part of the US doesn't have above 91 octane which limits your compression ratio. My street Z has 9.83:1 CR via flat top pistons and an N47 head and it runs great on 93 octane with no detonation. For my race motor, I went with the P79 head that is better to resist detonation just to be safe during long races as well as unknown gas near various race tracks. I shaved it to get to about 9.3:1 CR. I did not shim the towers and use longer valves, but rather just shaved and modified my chain guides and cam gear to get my chain slack and timing spot on.

200 crank HP isn't terribly hard to get with minimal cost. I built my race motor for about $1500 and it makes great power. I started with a F54/P79, but it would be about as easy to start with a N42/N42. Triple carbs are nice, but they are not needed to produce your power goals. 9.8:1 CR, a mild cam, and a good set of SU carbs will be all you need. I had my stock flywheel lightened. Make sure you replace your front pulley/harmonic balancer. Check with Dale Manufacturing to have them rebuild yours. I've seen many engines destroyed from failed dampers and a rebuilt one is not expensive.

Yes, the head can be pulled with the intake and exhaust in place as long as the exhaust manifold is stock. 6-into-1 headers are a different story since they wrap under the tunnel. Pulling the head and manifolds as an assembly are harder on the back since the weight goes way up. If the head needs any work, the shop will want the manifolds off anyways, so it's usually not worth leaving them on. It's very possible that they will find a broken stud at the rear of the head when they remove the exhaust manifold. If that's the case, they will need the manifold off to install a Heli-Coil. Good luck with the repairs on both car!

I have found large chunks of the original stuff in my oil pan. Luckily, it went down the front cover into the pan and just sat there. I found no marks on the debris, so I wasn't too worried about finding it. I did make sure there was no loose sealer in the valve cover baffle before I put the cover back on.

I resemble that remark.

No GT40, but I've driven lots of Ford GT's.

Hmmm, yeah that is pretty loud. It sounds more mechanical than exhaust, but it's still possible it's an exhaust leak. The gasket could be blown out and still leaking even though the nuts are tight. Hold a 2 foot long rubber hose to your ear and move the other end around the manifold. You will be able to hear the air rush if the manifold is leaking. Just throwing ideas out... What about a dead valve spring??? It's quiet at idle, but gets louder at higher RPM. If a spring is weak it could be floating the valve.

Just when we though we were done, we got hit again last night. It was 78° Sunday and it was 24° last night with 4 more inches of snow. The good(?!?!) news is that we broke the all-time snowfall record for Metro Detroit that dated back to the winter of 1880-1881.

That's a great price from Jegs. Shipping is always the expensive part of aero components.

Another beauty Guy! Congrats on the new addition.

It keeps turning. It's simply turning a disk with 5 different size holes, so it makes sense that there is no end stop.

I like that size. Hopefully, 15" performance tires are still available for years to come.

Body color for sure. Black can look good, but it is usually hiding something, so when Z experts see the black engine bay, that's what they immediately think.

$525 sounds about right to do the head gasket job. If the head is warped, only let them mill it if they know what they are doing. Milling the bottom-only will seal the head to the block, but the warp will still be in the head. N47 heads are cheap, so if the head has issues, try to find a good used one. I would expect to pay about $100 - $150 for a good used N47. I would verify that it measures flat and is full thickness though prior to purchase. The head should be 108mm tall from the valve cover surface to the bottom. Be sure to have them replace the valve seals while apart. It's much easier off the car and they are likely shot on your current head as well as any used head you would buy. Has the engine ever overheated prior to the dead cylinder? If not, it could be a simple head gasket job. Good luck.

Panasports are made in Japan. The ones made in China are other Minilte copies. Panasports are stronger and are worth more than the similar-looking Chinese wheels.

Sorry to hear about your engine. Like you said, something must have corroded/stuck during storage.

Tomzern, the way that most Z guys and gals find works best is to attach a tight-fitting 6" long hose to the MS's front bleed valve with the free end submerged into the reservoir under the fluid level. Now crack the bleeder and simply pump the pedal slowly up and down until no more bubbles appear. Close the bleeder and repeat for the rear bleeder. Using this method, I've never failed to get an air-free MC. If you open the bleeder too far or can't get the bubbles to stop, remove the bleeders and add a light coat of grease to the threads to seal them with the bleeder is cracked open.

How are you bleeding the MC? It is critical to get the MC bleed right before moving to the corners.

Glad to hear you found the problem.

$8500 will get you a nice powertrain. I paid $500 for a donor '82 F54 engine, 5 speed trans and 3.90 diff and then put another $1000 in machining and parts. You would still need an intake, carbs and a header, but for $3000 you should be able to build a nice complete engine. I'm not sure what a Rebello engine costs, but you are probably in the ballpark of your budget. I'd strongly consider going with ZTherapy SU carbs when you build your motor unless you really want triples. Triples are harder to tune, but they sound great and make better power on a modified engine.

What is your budget and what are you going to use the car for once built? There are lots of choices and there isn't one right answer. Some like strokers, some like high revving motors, and others like turbos. What about fuel delivery? Are you going to stick with SU's or swap to triple carbs? You can give Rebello a call and get anything you want, but it won't be cheap. A simple DIY build will cost between $1000 and $2000 for the engine plus whatever carbs you go with. Those will be $200 to $1500.