Jeff G 78

Yes. Be sure to move the mating rockers and lash pads with the cam and keep them all in the same order.

Stay away! Too many people have had issues with Justin. I know a guy who has been fighting to get his money back from Justin for several years. The check was cashed, but no product was shipped. He eventually got Justin to agree to small monthly re-payments, but it took hiring a lawyer and threatening to take him to court.

I just bought MSA's slip fit system for my race car. My header is an unknown brand, so I figured I would have more adjustability with the slip fit system. There is about a 4" gap between the MSA exhaust and my header collector, so I'm going to weld a short stub onto the collector and put a 3 bolt flange on the outlet. I will then add a 2.5" SS braided flex pipe with a flange on the inlet. That way, I will relieve the stress on my manifold studs and have a system that I can quickly remove if I need to pull the engine. This will also allow the system to mate up even if the collector and exhaust pipe aren't perfectly aligned. I'm currently in the process of getting it all mocked-up so I can buy and attach the flex pipe. I had a heck of a time getting all of the pipes to fit properly without hitting the R200, the suspension, and my modified tunnel for a lowered seat. I tried and tried to get the muffler to tuck in nicely, but no matter how I rotated it or which end I used as the inlet, it just doesn't fit that great. At least it's just my race car and I don't care if it is perfectly aligned with the valence cutout or if the pipe touches the diff from time to time. I ended up using the offset as the inlet and the center hole as the outlet. Otherwise, it fit much worse. Some instructions would have been really helpful rather than the trial and error method I used.

I miss my old Z Matt, but I'm glad you gave it a proper home and are having fun with it.

How do the cylinder walls look?

Jim, it's a round, smooth disc about the size of a Loonie (did you like my Canadian reference?) and ~4mm thick. I remember removing the locking plate, but otherwise I don't know what was there. If there is a threaded hole, I will put a bolt in it as the reference point. If not, I'll add some sort of tactile feature. Right now, it sucks to adjust.

My VHS tape is in rough shape. I got it right when it first came out and after about 2 times through, it started having tracking issues and is really hard to watch. Is the DVD the same material from Scott, or did Steve remake it?

Jim, mine are round and smooth. There are no knurls or scallops. I removed the detent limiter thingy a long time ago. They *might* have one or more threaded holes in the faces, but there are no fasteners in the holes. The knobs are impossible to adjust by feel alone.

I have read that, but I haven't tried it yet. I am about to adjust the float heights within the next week or two, so I will try all methods and report back. My biggest problem is that I can never keep track of how many turns I've made. I painted a dot on the adjuster so I can tell, but once I put my hand down on under the carb, I can no longer see anything. I have to turn a little and then look and repeat. I thought about drilling a hole in the adjuster and tying a ribbon to it so I can do it all by feel. Does anybody else struggle with this. or is it just me?

I'm on a tighter budget than you, so I went with Sealed Power for my current build. The three you listed are double the price.

Guy, did your ITM's come with rings?

My ITM pistons were great, but I should have thrown the rings away. I'm guessing it was a Black Dragon cheapness rather than an ITM problem, but the rings weren't individually packaged by piston like every other ring set I have ever bought. They were literally all together in one bag with no instructions as to groove positions or top/bottom orientation. They also didn't match any bevel/notch design I have ever seen, so it was anything but obvious. I took my best guess at it and threw them in. I'm convinced better rings would have increased my performance. At the time, I was in a hurry and I didn't have time to order a new ring set. That was about 10 years ago. I have not heard of any such problems lately with the Black Dragon piston/ring sets, so I think they got their act together.

So, what is the right answer on where to measure the 23mm from? Is it the bottom lip of the lid, or the bottom of the inside of the lid? That appears to make about a 3 - 4mm difference.

I put flat top ITM pistons in my street L28 and I got them from Black Dragon. I think they were $240 for the set with rings. They carried std and oversize at the time. I assume they still do.

Got it. Is that really where the 23mm is measured from??? I thought it was from the bottom of the lid just above the gasket, not from the inside of the lid.

No attachment yet Jim.

Attachment didn't work Jim.

Guy, I'm milling 0.050" from the head and I'm going with no shims. I will drill the cam and use the SBC offset bushings to set timing and I'll adjust the guides to get the tension right. I am told this procedure works fine. I hope so... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4760

Interesting build Guy. Does it rev better than an L28? I'm currently building a F54/P79 combo with a milled head to bump the CR.

Most people would be overjoyed to get their finished Z to your starting point! I can't wait to see (and drool over) your progress pics. I promise I'll let you know if I ever get down your way. I'd love to see your fleet in person.

Hey Guy, I thought you were done with the restorations after the last one? I can't wait to see how this one turns out.

What carb is that Cap'n?

I'm interested. I've been fighting with mine and need to redo them very soon. BTW, is there a better way to deal with the bowl gaskets? They work great the first time and then they curl and get hard to line up. Can we glue them to the lids? Is there a better gasket material? I hate these things.

I always run Ate in my 260 race car. It works great for 24+ hour long endurance races. I always keep it fresh though and I rebleed after each race.

A fellow forum member who goes by aka_elvis owns that V12 Z now. He blew up the 5.3L V12 and is building a 6.0L V12 replacement.