Jeff G 78

Define "slight scar". How about a picture? If the damage is significant, and your car is a '78, then you could swap the cam from the N47. It will need to be internally oiled like your '78 cam, so the E88 cams won't work. If you swap the cam, swap the rockers and lash pads at the same time and keep them all in the same order and orientation.

On the track, all is fine until I slow down. I have big issues at anything below 20mph. I plan to ditch the steel fuel rail. I think the heat from the head is being conducted through the rail brackets into the fuel. I'll also install a fan to keep air moving across the carbs and I'll cut a hole in the hood above the carbs similar to the later vented hood. If those things don't help, I'll have to try to run only premium fuel even though my low compression motor doesn't need it.

True Wade, but the big thing that makes E10 bad for us is that ethanol is much more prone to vapor locking. High pressure fuel systems keep this in check for the most part, but low pressure carbed applications really suffer. I laugh when I see E85 at the local stations for ~10% less per gallon than regular 87. E85 will deliver close to 30% worse economy for the modest 10% price break.

I'm sure that all of the issues I had with my race car were due to ethanol. In endurance racing, we are stuck with whatever gas the local station sells or paying huge money for high octane track gas. In a 25+ hour long race, we burned over 150 gallons of gas. What really sucks is the EPA's new ruling to allow E15. There is no way a carbed car will run on that crap.

If the cover is already on, leave it alone. I didn't realize you had it together. already.

I'd install it. It won't hurt anything and it only robs a small amount of power during high RPM operation.

I've raced the same engine with and without it and didn't notice any difference. I'll probably leave it off the next time I have the motor apart.

Sounds high for what he describes. I'd guess it's a $1500 car at most unless he's overstating the flaws.

This has nothing to do with the OP's question, but Tim Zwicky was running E85 in his Tec III FI turbo 280Z. The last I talked to him, he was around 700 RWHP. He did it to run more spark.

I bought the VHS tape back in the 90's when Scott ran the business and it's barely viewable anymore even though I've only watched it a few times. With enough tries, I can usually get the tracking in line so I have some sort of picture and sound.

The pilot bearing goes into the crankshaft and has nothing to do with the flywheel.

Congrats on the fix!

Are you using "vice grips" or Irwin Vice Grips? I have found that Craftsman and HF knock-offs are nearly useless.

No idea, but I'd try ebay. They sold loads of those wheels in every size and bolt pattern. Measure the center bore and see if you can find a match.

What Blue said.

Those are American Racing "Vectors". Widely known as "Dukes of Hazzard" wheels. I have a set for my race car.

There are several ways to get close to TDC using simple tools. Try this method. Remove the valve cover, distributor cap and #1 spark plug. Turn the engine over until the cam lobes for #1 are both pointing up. Now, check the distributor to be sure it's pointing towards the front and then stick a small wood dowel, drinking straw, or screwdriver into the spark plug hole until it touches the top of the piston. Now rotate the engine back and forth slightly with a 27mm socket and breaker bar and try to get the piston stopped exactly at TDC. It will dwell for a moment right at the top, so you want to find the spot that has a bit of delay each direction before it starts dropping. The dowel/straw, etc. will help you feel the spot. When you get there, mark the crank damper with a white or yellow paint pen right at the "0" mark on the pointer. Like I stated above, also mark the damper such that you can see if it has moved again. I simply extend the "0" mark forward and down. I put a dot on each of the pulley's "V" peaks and draw a line down the front face to the center of the bolt head.

I've had 10 S30's over the past 25+ years and I can't remember any of them ever leaking a drop of oil.

My 260 damper failed during a race. I was lucky not to break the crankshaft. Once I removed the damper, it spun like a bearing! Guy (Diseazed) was kind enough to send me a good used damper he had left over from an engine build. Now, I run a radial paint mark across the damper hub and pulley so I can immediately tell if it fails again.

Plenty of knee room, but we don't run a dash, so gauges weren't a problem. We mounted the stock gauges in a sheet metal pod. It's crapcan racing, so it was done on the cheap by a teammate who is a HVAC tinner by trade. We need to make a new cluster out of plastic. Our rules state that the door bars must be at least 6" apart, thus the spacing at the rear of the bars.

Gotcha. I have never seen a Z cage main hoop not go down to the rockers. Here is my NASCAR bar. The car wasn't finished yet, so ignore the rest of the nasty interior.

Looks great Chuck! One question... Is the main hoop diagonal legal? I thought they had to land at the bottom of the cage. It looks like yours lands at the deck or strut tower. I can't quite see where in the pics.

Add me to the vapor lock blues list. My 260 with SUs was a mess last fall during a 25+ hour race. At every daytime pit stop, it would refuse to restart and we lost a ton of time trying to get the carbs cool. We eventually found that opening the hood before we shut it off to fuel was just enough to keep the carbs cool. I plan on reworking the fuel rail and attachments and adding a ZX injector fan as well as cutting a hole in the hood for venting. I already have a large heat shield, but I might make a larger one. We go though way too much fuel in a race to run alcohol-free. Last fall, we burned 150 gallons in one day.

Did you call Nopi and ask? There is absolutely nothing in the description that indicates it's only the bearing itself. EDIT: You are correct. I copy/pasted the P/N and found the part on Amazon. They show it as just the bearing. I have never bought anything from Nopi and if that's as good as they can do on descriptions, I probably would never buy anything from them. I would be tempted to call them just to yell at them and tell them their listing is completely wrong.

Haa haaa haa haa. Good one Guy!