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Jeff G 78

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Everything posted by Jeff G 78

  1. Jeff G 78
    I installed them on my '78 and it dropped exactly 1". I have pics from before and after on an old computer at home. I'll try to find them and post them.
  2. Jeff G 78
    $2500 sounds very reasonable considering that the engine, trans, diff, brakes, etc are likely fine. It sucks to lose the car, but at least part of it can live on as part of your next S30. It's amazing what you can salvage. Be sure to remove and save EVERY nut, bolt, clip, etc. Rust free fasteners will come in very handy in the future. I have about five S30's worth of fasteners all sorted by size and type and I use them constantly.
  3. Jeff G 78
    Glad to hear it Frank!
  4. Jeff G 78
    Hey Frank, without saying what they gave you, can you buy/build another car with what you got for yours? As much as it sucks, I hope you can at least get into a similar Z without money out of your pocket.
  5. Jeff G 78
    Wait, what? Did Frank's car get sold at auction? I thought he was working on a buy back price from Hagerty.
  6. Jeff G 78
    Just guessing, but it looks like it might have been a wild ride that didn't result in serious injury. It didn't appear to take one big hit, but rather enough moderate ones that the driver's body could tolerate. It's the quick stops that kill.
  7. Jeff G 78
    Very cool. Thanks for the write-up and photos. Good luck with your motor.
  8. Jeff G 78
    That's a $500 car. Too many unknowns.
  9. Jeff G 78
    No. A used car dealer will tell you anything to move a car off the lot.
  10. Jeff G 78
    I cannot comment on any Z unless I know the underbody condition. The amount of rust changes everything.
  11. Jeff G 78
    I did exactly the same thing for my Toy 4x4 trans. I tapered the cut off ends though and then cut slots in them so I could back them out with a screwdriver after the trans was in place. I too pulled the yoke off a spare driveshaft and I always use that when I drop a trans. Some bailing wire hold the yoke tight to the trans so it doesn't fall off and leak fluid.
  12. Jeff G 78
    I paid that much back in 1995 to get my (now Lazeum's) '72 from Phoenix to Detroit.
  13. Jeff G 78
    Don't be afraid to travel to get a car. I have bought Z cars 200, 300, 800, 800, and 2000 miles from home in order to get what I wanted. Buy the best body you can get as everything else is easy. Rust and paint work is where the big repair $$ is.
  14. Jeff G 78
    Rare yes, but desirable and valuable, no. Do the swap.
  15. Jeff G 78
    Hard to say without looking at them closely. The first one needs a LOT of work, but if the underbody is clean, it might be worth ~$500. The second one might be a good car, or it might need a ton of work as well. $3500 sounds high unless the upper AND underbody are free of rust. The fact that it needs the fuel tank to be cleaned and sealed tells me that it has been sitting or has some level of rust. Inspect the car very well and post pics of the underbody before you pay $3500.
  16. Jeff G 78
    I've used both many times and the C clamp style works fine if the head is off already, but you will be sorry if you ever need to replace valve seals or decide to add performance springs and a cam. Pulling the head isn't fun and you'll pay for the KD3087 with one new head gasket. I found mine at Tooltopia.com pretty cheap.
  17. Jeff G 78
    The calipers were made by the hundreds of thousands while the spacers are machined one at a time. It's really rather simple manufacturing economics. As for upgrading, unless you have huge power and are road racing the car, the stock brakes work just fine. I put 1400 miles on my 260 in one endurance race last year and the brakes were plenty strong with little fade and minor wear. The only upgrades were to the pads, hoses and fluid. The rotors are at least 20 years old as are the calipers. I merely rebuilt the original calipers with a $7 seal kit.
  18. Jeff G 78
    Glad I don't live and drive anywhere near Kansas City. Dude, washers are NOT machined to a precise thickness or even flatness. If I remember right, the spacer thickness isn't a standard dimension. It's "near" 1/2", but it's a bit thicker or thinner (can't recall). They need to be perfect or the calipers will not work right.
  19. Jeff G 78
    You could always buy Randy's #797 with your payoff. It's not your #721, but she is pretty and you could grow to love her. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?45376-Yes-thats-me-on-EBay
  20. Jeff G 78
    I have never dealt with Hagerty, but I would ask the adjuster exactly what you asked us. They, better than anyone, should understand that there are a few parts worth keeping for your next Z. They might, however, offer you a buy-back. I totaled my wife's 4Runner in December when I hit a deer and I bought the wrecked truck back from State Farm. They said all or nothing as they wouldn't let me swap or take any individual parts. As much as it hurts to see your wrecked baby in the garage, a parts car is a huge benefit when building a new one. It looks like the hatch, rear bumper, rear suspension, much of the interior, the engine, trans, a few of the wheels, etc, etc are still good and can be reused.
  21. Jeff G 78
    To do the job with the head on, use the KD 3087 valve spring compressor. I also use the same one when the head is off. I simply bolt the head down to my workbench.
  22. Jeff G 78
    OH NO! Wow, I'm so sorry to see that. What are you going to do now? Hopefully you can pull what's left and build another Z. :cry:
  23. Jeff G 78
    Holy horsepower Batman!
  24. Jeff G 78
    Nice. I vaguely remember that, but it has been a while since I dropped a pump from an installed engine.
  25. Jeff G 78
    It sounds like they install the pump without the shaft for priming with a drill and then drop it again to reinstall the shaft. It makes sense.
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