Jeff G 78

Just don't get a HAMMER by mistake. That would HURT! :tapemouth

Now THAT'S funny.

A quick search tells me that the Hammer will do 185 MPH. http://www.fantasycars.com/sedans/HTML/mercedes_300e_amg_hammer_w124.html A second site says 190 MPH http://auto-specs.zercustoms.com/M/Mercedes-AMG/1988-mercedes-benz-300-e-amg-hammer-specifications.html

For metric fasteners, the 1.5 is the distance per thread in millimeters. If you measure from one thread peak to the next peak of an M16x1.5 bolt, it will be 1.5mm across. Because the distance is small, it's easiest to measure 10 threads and divide. 10 threads = 15mm = 1.5 pitch. SAE threads are measured differently. The pitch is threads per inch. A 1/4-20 bolt will have 20 threads in one inch.

Start with 1/2 lb of ground sirloin and mix in a few teaspoons of brown sugar and some seasonings to your liking. Hand form a patty 1" thick and grill at ~425 for 6 minutes per side.

I drove 165mph in a prototype full-size pickup truck about nine years ago out in Death Valley. It was the 3rd gen SVT Lightning that never made it to production.

In my best Crocodile Dundee voice... That's not rust, THIS is rust. POR-15 and a LOT of work took care of the problem.

I can't tell what I'm looking at. Can you explain the picture better?

Those look awesome!

This is the most confusing thread ever.

Before you screw with your floats, PLEASE do some research and make sure you do it right with the proper heights for both carbs. You didn't say what year your 3 screw SU's are, but the '72 3 screw carbs have different front and rear float heights. I made a simple gage which makes it almost fool proof. Without the gage, it was very hard to get them right. The gage took about 20 minutes to make with some woodworking tools and it makes checking/setting the floats a snap.

Link doesn't work for me.

Wait, wait wait, did you put your hand over the carb inlets while the plugs were out? If so, you will feel no suction. Your compression readings are fine and will improve when the engine is warm. As long as the distributor rotor points forward when the #1 cylinder is TDC and the cam lobes are as you described, then you have the engine timing right. You are over thinking the problem. I still say it's a fuel delivery issue.

Thanks for the follow-up. Hopefully that was the problem and everything stays dry.

Awesome Ron! If you don't mind parting with it, we can work something out.

Great. Now I know I can swap the sleeve easily. Anybody have a spare grommet they can part with?

Ron, I can pull a sleeve from another S30 distributor, but I don't have one handy to look at. One is in a spare L28 buried deep in my garage and the others are at my dad's in Ohio. I saw the hole in the shaft, but I *thought* the sleeve is stationary and only the shaft turns. If they both spin, then it makes more sense.

Just because you have fuel doesn't mean you have pressure. If it runs on starter fluid, it should run with gas. Have you done a compression test and leakdown test?

260Z, Welcome to the wonderful world of 260's. I went through the same thing a few years ago with my 260Z crapcan racecar. My Z sat for 15+ years in a barn and was a mess. I'd ditch the electric pump and then buy a new mechanical pump before you go any further. If the car fires with starter fluid, you likely have one or even two bad pumps. The electric pump isn't needed with the SU's and the mechanical pump is likely shot after sitting for all those years. Next, replace all the rubber hoses to and from the rail and run new rubber hoses into a small gas can sitting on the floor next to the car. Run one hose from the can to the fuel pump inlet and the other from the fuel rail return outlet into the gas can. This test will eliminate the guessing game of whether of not your fuel tank and filter are gunked up. You might have fuel, but no pressure due to a clogged system. Only after you try to get the car running from a gas can can you determine where the problem is. Check out my facebook link in my sig for the story of my 260. Follow the link to the photo section and go through each picture. They all have captions and might give you some pointers. Good luck! BTW, check www.rockauto.com for the best deal on parts. They have some great deals on engine parts, gaskets, fuel pumps, etc.

I just purchased a ZX distributor with E12-80 module off ebay (thanks for the link geezer!) and I got a great deal on it. It's missing a few parts though so I need some help. Thanks to Walter Moore's S130 distributor chart, I determined that I bought a '81 NA unit with an E12-80 module. Here is a picture showing what's missing. The rubber grommet that holds the wires for the module is missing as is the aluminum sleeve at the bottom that surrounds the shaft. I'm not talking about the mount, I'm talking about the sleeve that surrounds the shaft. I've seen some S130 dizzies with a plastic sleeve and some with the aluminum sleeve, but I haven't seen one with no sleeve. All of the S30 distributors I've seen have the aluminum sleeve. Can I pull the sleeve from an old S30 dizzy? If so, how does it come apart and attach? I can't see any signs that there ever was one on this dizzy, neither can I tell how it would attach since only the spinning shaft is exposed. Here are a few pictures of Ron's (geezer) '83 distributor with the sleeve. I took these several months ago, so the angles aren't ideal to see the sleeve. Ron's has the mount attached, but you can clearly see the sleeve as well. Second, does anybody have a junk ZX distributor with a good grommet? If not, any idea where I can buy one? Are they still available through Nissan?

+1 on what Geezer said. I was at Cleveland Rockz too and your car was a fine example of an original Z that has been properly cared for since new. I'd say that $11,000 seems fair, but like Ron said, I doubt you could replace it for that number considering it's only original once and there aren't many unmolested and unrestored cars left.

Glad you got it apart. Now it's time for new inserts. Make sure the top mount D holes are in good shape too.

Except the OP confirmed that the nut is stripped, not the top mount. The shaft isn't turning according to him. I do question this a bit though because the shiny strut shafts can be very trick to see spin. The best way to tell is to paint pen a line across the threads and nut and then turn the nut 1/4 turn and see if the marks still line up.

Just in case you didn't already know this. Do not remove or cut the top nut without the spring compressed. The strut is under a lot of pressure from the spring and the car will lurch up in the air when the nut is cut loose. I have done this on parts cars with an impact, but I wouldn't want to be using a Dremel on the nut when the force is released. You will likely be injured.

They are actually "D" shaped and the top mount does round easily. I've had good luck with the strap wrench plus impact wrench on old parts cars. If the struts are being replaced and you don't have a strap wrench, you can also use a pipe wrench or vice grips on the strut shaft. Obviously, you should NOT try this if you are not replacing the strut inserts.