Jeff G 78

There will always be a few threads showing and depending on the inserts, there could be quite a few threads showing. Most inserts come with new gland nuts and I've seen quite a few that are really tall. As long as they clamp the insert tightly into the tube, they are fine. What you don't want is for the nut to bottom on the tube without clamping the insert.

As an auto development engineer, we did a drive back in about 2004 with many sports cars and I was shocked at how similar the 350 was to the S30. The C6 Vette was actually lighter than the 350, but felt huge and heavy compared to the Z33. The other cars on the drive were all bigger and heavier (M5, GTO, CTS-V, GT500, etc.) and the Z was in a different league. It rode worse than the rest, but it had that driver connectivity that the S30 has in spades. The rest of the cars felt too isolated. When I drove a 370 on a similar drive last summer, it felt way more similar to the big, heavy cars. It was much more refined that the 350, but for me, that was a bad thing. I'm sure it's a better car to live with everyday than the 350, but for me it was a step in the wrong direction. The 350 got panned by the S30 faithful when it came out for being too big and heavy and built off a sedan platform. After driving one, I was a believer. It felt more like an S30 than anything else I had ever driven. That's why I was disappointed in the 370. Great car, but it lost that raw sports car feeling. Maybe with more time in the 370, I'd have a different opinion, but it just didn't do it for me.

I drove a 370 and I was a bit disappointed. The 350's I drove felt way more like an S30 than the 370 did. While the 370 is better looking and nicer inside, it lost a lot of the character that the 350 had. It felt bigger and heavier even though it is neither.

I'm with you Julio. I think the large louvers look best, but I'm not sure if they would look right with your BRE spoiler. I also plan to install a BRE, so I'll probably sell both of my louvers some day.

All of the pics so far are of the on-the-glass louvers. Is that the style you are looking for? If you are looking for pics of the larger body mounted louvers, let me know and I'll scan a 25 year old pic of a '76 Z I had. I currently have two sets of louvers, but none are currently mounted. I'm not sure if I really want to drill or not. I will say they they help keep the interior cooler in the summer. Edit: Michael beat me to it. He has the body mounted louvers.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

I'll have to dig deep in my collection and see if I can find anything. I recall having a BSR catalog a long time ago. I believe it's the same as the top middle one in Curtis' photo above.

There are some KILLER deals for 15" Sportmax wheels on eBay. You can get 15x8s in many colors and styles starting at $268 a set. I think they charge around $100 a set for shipping, but that's still a great deal. I'm not a huge fan of Sportmax wheels, but the price is right. I paid five times that for my Panasports. I was looking for used 14" wheels for my racecar and kept finding super cheap new 15 and 16" wheels. Here's an example. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/15-8-XXR-002-Black-Rims-71-79-83-Datsun-240z-280z-280zx-/360315807908?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e47ee8a4#ht_3644wt_1165

I'd sell the rims and buy other 15" rims with the proper offset. It sounds like those rims have negative offset. 0 - +6mm will work better for you and will keep steering vibrations down. Negative offset will amplify any vibrations you might have. Do they only rub while backing up, or all the time?

That's going to be a REALLY long bus trip Chris!

The best place I have found is just outboard of the front diff crossmember. The body has a nice, strong square section that the crossmember bolts to. I angle the jack stands slightly to avoid the lower control arms. This location allows work on everything without them getting in the way.

Like Gary said, you have to know the year. That said, you can see the difference in the float mounts if you have '72 carbs. I will take a picture tonight of my height gage. It took less than 20 minutes to make and saved me a whole bunch of aggravation when I adjusted the floats. Disclaimer: I am also a woodworker, so I had the tools needed to make the block and it was fun to do. I made it one night after reading how to make it. I didn't actually need to use it for several weeks, so the time to make it wasn't lost. If you don't have the tools needed to make the tool, just find something in your shop to use as Gary suggested. See post #3 of this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30563&highlight=float+height It lists the float heights and shows the tool.

+1 on calling Bruce. What year carbs? If they are from a '72, they have different float heights for each carb. Make sure you know this prior to checking them. I made a float height tool per a drawing I found here and it makes setting the floats much easier. It's just a block of hardwood cut to the right thickness. In my case it has two ends for the two heights as my carbs are from a '72. Measuring them without the tool isn't easy and will likely cause you to set them wrong.

If the wires don't come from the distributor itself, they are for the EGR which has likely been disabled/removed. You said the car runs, so this tells me they are not going to the distributor.

I was a little slow on the POST button.

When braking while backing up.

I don't see any bent parts other than the rim. You might have gotten lucky and just knocked the toe a bit and ruined a rim.

Take photos of the suspension and post them here. Chances are good that the LCA and/or TC rod are bent.

I'd just rewire from scratch with relays rather than trying to revive a PO's cobbled mess.

You don't even need to get messy with grease. Stuff a wad of toilet paper soaked in water into the bearing and then find a dowel rod or bolt that just barely slides into hole Wrap the dowel with tape if needed to make it a tight-ish fit. Smack the dowel quickly with a mallet and the bearing will slide right out. Grease works well, but is messier than water. EDIT: Sorry, I didn't click on the link before posting. Tony D. already gave you the TP idea.

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+1 That's why I went with 225/50R16. Rubbing can be an issue though, so do your homework if you go that route.

Looks like a nice Z. I agree with the springs and tires.

It was a $2000 car MAX with that crappy paintjob and poor overall mechanical condition. I laughed at the owner's price and then laughed harder at Rick's $4k offer. The only smart one was the guy who test drove it. That episode is very old. It originally aired over a year ago.