Jeff G 78

That's going to be a REALLY long bus trip Chris!

The best place I have found is just outboard of the front diff crossmember. The body has a nice, strong square section that the crossmember bolts to. I angle the jack stands slightly to avoid the lower control arms. This location allows work on everything without them getting in the way.

Like Gary said, you have to know the year. That said, you can see the difference in the float mounts if you have '72 carbs. I will take a picture tonight of my height gage. It took less than 20 minutes to make and saved me a whole bunch of aggravation when I adjusted the floats. Disclaimer: I am also a woodworker, so I had the tools needed to make the block and it was fun to do. I made it one night after reading how to make it. I didn't actually need to use it for several weeks, so the time to make it wasn't lost. If you don't have the tools needed to make the tool, just find something in your shop to use as Gary suggested. See post #3 of this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30563&highlight=float+height It lists the float heights and shows the tool.

+1 on calling Bruce. What year carbs? If they are from a '72, they have different float heights for each carb. Make sure you know this prior to checking them. I made a float height tool per a drawing I found here and it makes setting the floats much easier. It's just a block of hardwood cut to the right thickness. In my case it has two ends for the two heights as my carbs are from a '72. Measuring them without the tool isn't easy and will likely cause you to set them wrong.

If the wires don't come from the distributor itself, they are for the EGR which has likely been disabled/removed. You said the car runs, so this tells me they are not going to the distributor.

I was a little slow on the POST button.

When braking while backing up.

I don't see any bent parts other than the rim. You might have gotten lucky and just knocked the toe a bit and ruined a rim.

Take photos of the suspension and post them here. Chances are good that the LCA and/or TC rod are bent.

I'd just rewire from scratch with relays rather than trying to revive a PO's cobbled mess.

You don't even need to get messy with grease. Stuff a wad of toilet paper soaked in water into the bearing and then find a dowel rod or bolt that just barely slides into hole Wrap the dowel with tape if needed to make it a tight-ish fit. Smack the dowel quickly with a mallet and the bearing will slide right out. Grease works well, but is messier than water. EDIT: Sorry, I didn't click on the link before posting. Tony D. already gave you the TP idea.

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+1 That's why I went with 225/50R16. Rubbing can be an issue though, so do your homework if you go that route.

Looks like a nice Z. I agree with the springs and tires.

It was a $2000 car MAX with that crappy paintjob and poor overall mechanical condition. I laughed at the owner's price and then laughed harder at Rick's $4k offer. The only smart one was the guy who test drove it. That episode is very old. It originally aired over a year ago.

That really sucks. Hopefully the insurance company won't give you a tough time about the non-stock bumper.

Not to be a jerk, but you simply copy/pasted my response from zcar.com. At least give credit when you repost other's info. I was going to post the answer here myself, but since the OP asked the question on both forums, I didn't think there was much value in posting the same answer twice. http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/need_help_clutch_master_info_please._894135.0.html

Well duh! Who else would use Excel to draw a sketch? I know it's hard to believe, but there is still a lot of room in the garage. My wife doesn't really have to be close to anything and she can open all four doors fully without touching anything. The only hard part is backing in with my 280Z right next to my truck. I forgot to mention that the key is using dollies under the tires of both Z cars. I can roll them tight to the walls without worrying about tires going flat over winter. It also gives me room underneath for things like the extension ladder.

OK, here it is. The block sizes are approximate and I only showed the big stuff and what is on the floor. Also in the garage on the floor are two floor jacks, four suspension corners, a scaffold, battery charger/starter, etc. I have lots of stuff hanging and tucked above the rafters. I have parking stops between the Tacoma and Z and the 4Runner and Z. There is only about 3" between the 260 and 3" between the Tacoma and garage door. See? It all fits... barely. BTW, the Rubbermade yard cart is rather light and has rubber bicycle tires. It is also on the hood of my $500 racecar, so it's not doing any damage.

Shhhh. I get some crap, but I don't buy anything new so nobody really cares. The Ranger doesn't fit my needs and the Explorer is a soccer mom mobile. I'm still trying to figure out how to post the sketch as a picture rather than an Excel file.

Frank, Just for you, I made an Excel sketch. Now I just have to figure out how to upload it. I have to run out for a bit and then I'll upload it.

I'd love to, but I doubt Ford would let me telecommute. :disappoin Selling my house isn't much of an option either with our economy.

Today was the day my two Z cars were put to bed for the winter. Even though there will be a few nice days left this fall, I am already tired of scraping my truck's windows every morning, so my Z cars got tucked into the corners of my garage so my truck would fit. I have a 24x24 garage and with the right shuffling, I can fit two Z cars, a spare engine, trans, suspension, a snowblower, push mower, lawn cart, an engine hoist, my wife's 4Runner and my Tacoma 4x4. I really hate winter more and more each year. My toys are stored six months of every year.

Nice 260. Lose the whitewalls and it will look great.