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Jeff G 78

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Everything posted by Jeff G 78

  1. That really sucks. Hopefully the insurance company won't give you a tough time about the non-stock bumper.
  2. Not to be a jerk, but you simply copy/pasted my response from zcar.com. At least give credit when you repost other's info. I was going to post the answer here myself, but since the OP asked the question on both forums, I didn't think there was much value in posting the same answer twice. http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/need_help_clutch_master_info_please._894135.0.html
  3. Well duh! Who else would use Excel to draw a sketch? I know it's hard to believe, but there is still a lot of room in the garage. My wife doesn't really have to be close to anything and she can open all four doors fully without touching anything. The only hard part is backing in with my 280Z right next to my truck. I forgot to mention that the key is using dollies under the tires of both Z cars. I can roll them tight to the walls without worrying about tires going flat over winter. It also gives me room underneath for things like the extension ladder.
  4. OK, here it is. The block sizes are approximate and I only showed the big stuff and what is on the floor. Also in the garage on the floor are two floor jacks, four suspension corners, a scaffold, battery charger/starter, etc. I have lots of stuff hanging and tucked above the rafters. I have parking stops between the Tacoma and Z and the 4Runner and Z. There is only about 3" between the 260 and 3" between the Tacoma and garage door. See? It all fits... barely. BTW, the Rubbermade yard cart is rather light and has rubber bicycle tires. It is also on the hood of my $500 racecar, so it's not doing any damage.
  5. Shhhh. I get some crap, but I don't buy anything new so nobody really cares. The Ranger doesn't fit my needs and the Explorer is a soccer mom mobile. I'm still trying to figure out how to post the sketch as a picture rather than an Excel file.
  6. Frank, Just for you, I made an Excel sketch. Now I just have to figure out how to upload it. I have to run out for a bit and then I'll upload it.
  7. I'd love to, but I doubt Ford would let me telecommute. :disappoin Selling my house isn't much of an option either with our economy.
  8. Today was the day my two Z cars were put to bed for the winter. Even though there will be a few nice days left this fall, I am already tired of scraping my truck's windows every morning, so my Z cars got tucked into the corners of my garage so my truck would fit. I have a 24x24 garage and with the right shuffling, I can fit two Z cars, a spare engine, trans, suspension, a snowblower, push mower, lawn cart, an engine hoist, my wife's 4Runner and my Tacoma 4x4. I really hate winter more and more each year. My toys are stored six months of every year.
  9. Nice 260. Lose the whitewalls and it will look great.
  10. Why do you think I said out loud? I knew SOMEBODY would do it. LOLLOLLOL
  11. Remove radiator cap and replace the car beneath it. That car is Looooooong gone. Everybody needs a parts car or three. Remove EVERYTHING and keep for use on a much less rusty Z.
  12. This question came up once before and I'll answer it now the same way I did then... Sing the ABC's song out loud to yourself and tell me how it ends.
  13. I don't agree that a stock height Z is any different than a lowered Z for tire clearance. The tire goes through the same arc with either setup. The stock ride height might not rub in normal driving, but hit a big enough bump and you will rub exactly the same as with lowering springs. The only way to be sure you will have no rubbing is to remove the springs and run the suspension through FULL travel. If the tires hit, you have a problem. Look at post #19 in this thread to see what I mean. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35079&highlight=fender+lip My '78 rubbed really badly with 225/50R16 tires on zero offset 7" rims until I trimmed the fender lips.
  14. If you aren't worried about originality, make an all new circuit using heavy wire and a relay. The lights will be brighter than ever before and you won't have the problem again.
  15. Been there, done that, same results. I put those parts back in the box and replaced everything else. It's been fine ever since. Sorry, I can't help, but just wanted to let you know you aren't alone.
  16. No US-bound 240Zs came with rear swaybars, but the '73, I believe, had the brackets to mount a 260/280 style bar. The factory bar mounts in front of the axle centerline with the arms pointing rearward. The earlier 240's require an aftermarket rear bar that mounts to the crossmember support brackets behind the diff. Those bars have the arms facing forward. I have no idea what other markets had in '73. It's possible that they did start installing factory bars that year. We only got the real estate and brackets, but no bar.
  17. I had to use ratchet straps to do poly/poly on my '78. To get the alignment correct I had to add a few washers to the LH TC rod which made it way harder to get the nut started. I did poly/rubber on my '74 and it was a bit easier.
  18. '76 vacuum is different than '77 - '78. I'll see what I can find. I took some very detailed pics of a Blacl Pearl at the national convention a few years ago.
  19. Just to be clear for future searches, only the 240Z Tokicos are progressive and have the issue mentioned. The Tokicos are linear for 280Zs and don't have the stacked dead coil issue.
  20. My 260 has a huge rear bar to go along with the large front bar. A normal aftermarket bar set is 1" F and 3/4" R. My front is 1", but my rear is a bit over 1". The car is neutral, handles very well on the track and is super easy to control at the limit. YMMV.
  21. There is a flexible wire harness clip on the body near the connectors. Simply hook the unused harness in the clip and bend the tangs. It can stay that way forever.
  22. I *believe* the neutral wires are there on all cars, but they are only used on the automatics for most years. I've only had one manual box with a neutral switch, but I think they have all had the wires.
  23. Look into crapcan racing. There are lots of races at the tracks you mentioned and teams are always looking for crew members. If you hook up with an established team, you will learn a lot and can easily get into driving at a reasonable cost. Because it's endurance racing, there will be a lot more time at the track and opportunity to learn. Don't let the format scare you away. The racing is very real. ChumpCar is a bit more conventional and competitive, but both are fun. There are quite a few teams that race Datsuns, but don't limit yourself. Get your feet wet with an established team and soak it all in. www.chumpcar.com www.24hoursoflemons.com
  24. Read above raltz. They are likely the neutral switch wires. They are only used on a few years and on automatics.
  25. With the key in the "on" position, touch the red/black wires together and see if the reverse lamps illuminate. It sounds like the reverse switch isn't connected. There is also a neutral switch on some transmissions which could be what you are seeing. The two switches look exactly the same and might actually be the same. The neutral switch is located close to the shifter, and the reverse switch is located near the fill plug.
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