Jeff G 78

Emblems yes, but the marker lights look right. Overall, it looks like a rather crappy paintjob.

The bracket I designed, which mgood posted, works great and was easy to make. Other than the need for a few welds, it can be made quickly. With nothing other than a die grinder, drill, vice and hammer, I made mine in a few hours.

Gotcha. I never had anything prior to a mid/late '72. That explains it.

I don't ever recall seeing a spring between the slave and clutch fork. Was that only on the really early cars?

Yep, I've been using Rockauto for several years now and they have been great. Out of dozens of orders, I've only gotten one wrong part from them (for my Toyota 4x4 DD). It was partially my fault for not calling them and asking to clarify the year range for the part I needed since it was really vague on their website. I trusted the picture which turned out to be wrong. They said the photo was supplied by Beck Arnley and that they would call them about updating the photo. They took care of the return shipping and got a new part in the mail right away. It was all I could ask for. They almost always have what I need in stock for less $ than the chain parts stores. I try to give my business to Courtesy, MSA, or BD if their prices are close, but for mundane parts like belts, hoses, etc, I usually go with Rock. While we're on the subject of good vendors, I found http://www.tooltopia.com/ a few years ago and they have some good deals. I got my KD valve spring compressor there and it was much less than anywhere else I could find it. If you are doing Z valve springs or seals, it's a great tool to own.

The FSM shows how much slack the pedal should have. Be sure that the pushrod has some clearance for sure. If it's tight without pushing the pedal, you will quickly wear the throwout bearing and the clutch.

You should be fine then.

I am going from at least 25 year old memory here from when I did my slave swap, so... From what I remember, the adjustable pushrod was replaced in production at some point in the 240Z years. The mating clutch fork has a hole to accomodate the threaded rod, so you cannot simply swap the pushrods as it will go right through the hole. You have to use the old adjustable rod. As for the bore diameter difference, I cannot recall, but you might need the right bore to get the right pedal feel and stroke. A larger slave bore will cause the pushrod to move less than usual. Here's how the system works - You push the pedal, the pedal pushes the MC piston and fluid is pushed through the line. The larger the slave piston, the less the pushrod moves since the area of the bore is larger. The smaller the piston, the more it moves. The ranges are very small in the clutch system, so you might have an issue with travel.

Maybe true in theory, but I've never had a MC go bad after replacing a slave. I've done it on at least six different Zs. It would be no different than saying you need to replace the brake MC after replacing calipers. Nobody does that.

I'd either order the right one and wait, or replace only the slave and leave the MC alone. Like I said earlier, the slaves are notorious for dying, but the MCs last forever if they aren't left in damp storage. I seriously doubt you will ever have a MC failure.

When I built my LeMons 260, I found the same thing. The MC reservoir was at the end rather than in the middle. The early cars were different than the 280s. It looks like you got the wrong MC. It will work, but like oldhemi said, you'll have to bend the line to fit. If you want it to look original, get the right one. I got mine from rockauto.com and it's a rebuilt Tabco just like the original. It's a Beck Arnley part. Here are the two MCs.

Very cool! Don't even THINK about body colored spokes :sick: It looks awesome the way it is.

I have owned 10 S30s over the past 26+ years. Nearly every single one of them has puked a clutch slave cylinder at one point or another. Not once was I stranded. I was able to drive each one home with no clutch. Start it in gear, match revs to upshift and downshift and pop it into neutral before stopping. Shut it off and repeat the process when the light turns green. Just for the fun of it, I drove an old $500 parts car for a full week without using the clutch just to see if I could do it. The Z transmission shifts beautifully without a clutch as long as you match revs. Of all those cars that needed slave cylinders, I have never had a clutch master go bad. I did buy my 260 barn find with a corroded and frozen MC, but that's a different issue. I have also always used Beck Arnley slaves with no issues. Once replaced, I've never had another failure.

IMHO body colored spokes would look a bit hokey. Be sure to post pics once you get them on the car.

I don't recognize the left two, but I believe #3 goes on the LH kickpanel and covers the computer.

That's a great price on the Rewinds. I paid double that for my Panasports and I got a good deal on them. I think I would have bought five at that price in case I ever bent or curbed one. You never know how long they will be available. What color did you get?

Julio, check out the trailer. The quote is around 1:20 in. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4y-8Cq7wib8

That was Raoul Julia in Gumball Rally. The quote was (without accent) "The first rule in Italian driving - What's behind you is not important". It very well could have been an Enzo quote he was referring to.

Ahh. Thanks SteveJ. I've never seen him hanging out here.

Because they had to meet emissions regulations. When you compare the round tops side by side to the flat tops, you'll see just how complex the flat tops are. Other than the few gurus who like them, they really are crap. Many dealers were swapping them out when the cars were brand new due to all the problems they had. Just because something was mass produced, doesn't mean it was any good. AMC was in business for years and everything they built was junk. :sick:

I love Rockauto, The shipping costs tend to be a bit high since every part comes from a different warehouse location.

Hey Rich, logon to zcar.com and PM "Tony D". He loves flat tops and knows how to make them work very well. Tell him I sent you.

Looks great! Keep the pics coming.

Been there, done that. These pics are from my '75 Z that sat for about 10 years in a damp barn. I tried everything prior to cutting, but it just wasn't going to budge.

My buddy and I always had the rule that to put a car on your list, you must have the title and must have driven it at least once around the block. This eliminates counting parent owned cars we drove in high school and pure parts cars. You wouldn't believe some of the creative things we did to drive cars that had no business being on public roads Since 1982: 1981 Toyota 4x2 PU 1972 240Z 1976 280Z 1976 280Z 1990 Toyota 4Runner 1984 Supra 1984 Toyota 4x4 1979 Subaru BRAT 1981 BMW 320i s 1987 CRX si 1978 280Z 1977 280Z 1991 Toyota 4x4 1990 Toyota 4x4 1975 280Z 1994 Sentra SE-R 1972 240Z 1973 240Z 1987 Civic si 1989 240SX 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 1987 300ZX 1989 Toyota 4x4 1998 Toyota 4Runner 1974 260Z I've likely missed a few, but as you can see, I pick cars I like and keep buying them over and over.