Jeff G 78

It depends if it's an early or late 260. Many more early 260 parts swap than late 260 parts. Big bumper = late, small bumper = early assuming they haven't been swapped.

Well, THERE'S your problem. Poly bushings make or break ride quality. You might try going back to OE rubber on a few key bushings and see if you can avoid redoing the whole suspension. The TC bushings are the first ones I'd replace.

You can use a large screwdriver to determine if the injectors are firing. Hold the tip of the screwdriver against the first injector and hold your ear tight against the the end of the handle while cranking the engine. You should hear a click each time the injector fires. Repeat for all six injectors. If all six click, the problem is likely fuel pressure. If either only the front three or only the rear three fire, the problem is electrical. If random injectors fire, either the electrical system or the injectors are the culprit. Id suggest downloading the FSM and the EFI Bible from www.xenons30.com With that, you can check each and every system as needed.

Get a fuel pressure gauge and T it inline between the filter and the rail. The Oil Pressure Sender sends a signal to the fuel pump in the '78, so if the sender is bad, you might not be getting fuel. I believe it should be reading around 36psi. As a quick and easy test, try shooting starting fluid in the intake elbow under the air filter. If it briefly fires, you know you have a fuel problem and not an ignition problem. BTW, don't throw parts at it. Most of the time, you will just frustrate yourself and waste money.

The 260 has a magnetic pickup distributor and the voltage should be around +9v at the coil. You will only get +12v while cranking.

Go to www.xenons30.com and download the FSM for the 260Z. With a simple multimeter, you can check each circuit to find the problem.

You can download the FSM from www.xenons30.com

Years ago, the hot setup was to use Hyundai Excel weatherstrips. I found some in a JY and they fit and worked very well. The Sportage ones might be the same profile since it's the same company. The Excels are likely long gone from JYs by now, so this is great news.

To bleed the MC, simply use a snug fitting clear hose that is 6" long. Remove the reservoir caps and route the hose from the bleeder into the reservoir below the fluid level. Crack the bleeder just enough to get fluid flow and SLOWLY pump the pedal. With the hose in the fluid, there is no need to open and close the valve. Just keep pumping until there are no more bubbles. Close the bleeder and repeat on the second bleeder port. It works every time. If you loosen the bleeder too far, you can suck air through the threads. If you think that is happening, remove the bleeder and apply a small amount of grease to the threads to seal them. One word of caution, if your paint is nice, be sure to lay lots of rags down under the MC. Also cover the fender with plastic or towels. Brake fluid will eat right through paint.

It's certainly true that there isn't much airflow, but the volume is rather large under the deck, so I doubt there would be a problem with any moderate setup. My system is actually very low power, so I have nothing to worry about. I have two 40watt Alpine amps and a crossover. One amp powers a pair of Boston 4" speakers in the factory location under the quarter windows and the other will power 6x9's in the rear using the MSA box. I don't have that box yet though, so for now, I'm rocking with a pair of 4" speakers.

The raised deck makes for a much less useful cargo area, but it makes a great space for stereo equipment. I have two small amps and a crossover mounted under my deck forward of the spare tire and they are completely hidden from view. Even if someone broke into my Z, I doubt they'd ever find the components.

Yes, they are S45 two-ways. They are virtually flush, so they do fit behind the factory trim panels. I started with different speakers that were SUPPOSED to be flush and they were no where close. I had to send them back. Before I bought them, I specifically asked the Crutchfield sales guy if they protruded past the main cone and he said they'd fit fine. Luckily, they shipped the Bostons immediately rather than making me send the others back first.

We raced a 260Z in the 24 Hours of LeMons last October. Three hours into the race, the tired old R180 died a terrible death. I had a spare S30 R200, halfshafts, and a driveshaft stored at my dad's house about an hour away from the track, so we swapped the R180 for the R200 in the middle of the night in the dark and cold. The R200 uses different half shafts, different driveshaft, and different mustache bar. As long as you can get those parts, you can do the swap. Unfortunately for us, my only R200 mustache bar was at my house 4 hours from the track. Our solution was to cut and weld the R180 mustache bar and make it work for the R200. The total job including travelling to get the parts and fabricating a mustache bar at 3am, took about 12 hours. The working conditions were less than ideal. We had been awake for days, it was cold and rainy, and the car was on a car trailer to keep it out of the deep mud. We were back on the track by 8am and finished the last 4 hours of the race.

That's great Ron. Thanks.

I know this thread is ancient, but to shed some light on the weight question, Panasport makes their standard street wheels as well as ultra light race-only wheels. I don't know the 15x7 race wheel weight, but they are much lighter than their street wheel. 10 lbs isn't out of the question. Someone told me once that the 1st gen Miata R wheels were close to 10 lbs.

You are lying Steve! The 260 was only sold in 1974. I refuse to believe anything else. I am putting my hands over my ears now and screaming "laa laa laa laa laa laa laa laa"

He's not THE Stig. He only drove the Ferrari on this episode. Remember that Top Gear as seen "new" in the US already aired a long time ago in the UK. This has been discussed over and over on the internet and it was revealed that MS only did it for this special car.

We have a wink in the LeMons 260Z and I don't like it. Like Jon said, it's too close and the left panels show nothing other than your helmet. I'd like to try a panoramic to see if that is better.

The OBX helical LSD is only $375. It's a Chinese Quaife copy and the guys at hybridz.org have had good luck with them. They did have a lot of assembly mistakes on the early units, so the buyers were forced to take them apart and check to be sure they were put together right. Some had the gearset backwards. I'm not sure if that is still a concern or not.

I removed my '78's mustache bar without removing the diff. I believe I pried the bar rearward past the studs and then jacked the diff up until the studs cleared the top of the bar. At that point I was able to work the bar down off the body studs. It wasn't easy or pretty, but I got it. I used poly bushings, so installing it was a bit easier since they are two piece. The bar can be twisted quite a bit without the bottom half of the poly bushing in place. If I were using OE rubber bushings, then I would have removed the front diff mount. After a bunch of diff R&Rs on my LeMons 260, I can now remove a front mount in only a few minutes. It used to take me several hours to swap a front mount. The trick is body position. Lay on your back with your feet hanging straight out the back of the car and reach the opposite arm from the bolt you are working on up over the diff to remove the bolt. It's hard to describe, but it works great. To remove the passenger side front vertical bolt, reach your right hand with a 1/2" drive ratchet through the suspension and above the diff. With your left hand, hold the nut with a wrench. Repeat using the other arms for the driver's side bolt. If you try to reach the same side bolts, your arm will be too long and will be in an awkward position. Likewise, laying sideways or forwards doesn't allow any room for your arms and hands. BTW, I am a BRE fan too. Here is my LeMons 260.

I think you might be confused about what the OP is looking for. From what I can tell. he needs the sheet metal cups that are welded to the body of the car. To get them off a parts car, they'd have to be cut off. I'm not saying that can't be done, but it sounds like you are thinking of either the inner sleeves or thick curved washers that go on either side of the TC bushings.

You might try OEM jounce bumper cups from pickup trucks. The gauge might be a bit heavier, but they should be very similar in shape and size. Look under most new pickup trucks and you will see the rear jounce bumpers hanging from the frame. The jounce bumpers are often in a steel cup that keeps them in place and provided a metal to metal stop if the jounce bumper ever falls off or gets torn.

Very pretty Lee!!!!

I have still never seen flow data to back up the "N47 is bad" claim. I believe that it is purely an urban legend based on the fact that it "looks" like it wouldn't flow as well.

I'm confused Walter. There is tons of room around the bolt on all of the L24-L28s I've owned. Maybe they early L24s are different, but from '72 on, they have at least an inch all the way around the head. As far as the socket, I use a 27mm Craftsman. They are a regularly stocked item.