Jeff G 78

Try Danny's Datsuns in OR. He sells used Z parts. Otherwise, there are always a ton of cars being parted out and listed in the classifieds here, zcar.com, and hybridz.org.

Yikes! Yes, it's a V12, but what a turd of a motor.

Sorry, not sure if a ZX pump is the same or not. What is that pump? New OEM, used OEM, aftermarket universal?

There should be TONS of them out there. Post a WTB ad on all the Z sites or simply look through the classifieds for parts cars.

I spend a lot of time reading the archives at hybrid, but I never post there. I am an auto engineer and they are still too technical for me. :stupid:

They are quiet and last a long time if not destroyed by tank debris. I was just reading about issues with aftermarket pumps made in china and sold under the MSD name. You are better off with a quality OEM pump than a new Chinese aftermarket POS.

I'd look for a good used OEM pump.

It all depends what you want to do with the car. If you are going to do track days with it, the SR20DET or S2000 swaps will work, but if you want street power, a turbo L28 or V8 swap might be a better choice. Anything and everything will fit, so it just depends what you want.

BTW, getting photos of the inside of the tank to come out is really tough! You can either get the camera lens or light in the tank, but not both.

Start by removing the round inspection lid under the false floor in the hatch. It is to the right of the tire well near where the tools sit. Once you remove the cover, turn the lock ring, unplug the connector and remove the fuel sender. With the sender out, shine a flashlight down in the tank (not a trouble light!) and find out what the bottom looks like. If it's gunky or rusty, it's time to drop the tank and clean it out. Soak the fuel tank straps for a day or two in PB Blaster or other penetrant and remove the tank. The hoses can be tricky, but they will come off. Once the tank is down, order the POR-15 fuel tank kit online from the POR15 store and follow the directions EXACTLY! It takes several days to do right, but will fix your tank for good (only if done BY THE BOOK). Here was my tank before and after. It is a messy, no-fun job, but the results will be worth it.

No, it's not synthetic. They do make it in both dino and synthetic, but I have only seen the dino. Look here. http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6

Valvoline VR1 has zinc and can be found at Napa or online at Amazon. Autozone and O'Reileys sells it as well, but only 50wt and 20W50. Napa and Amazon have more weights available.

On that note, I am looking for one MSA (Earl's) S30 SS braided hose. I had one fail (my fault) and I had to buy a complete new set. Now, I need a set for a second car and would rather buy one than a set of four.

Did you guys use the square carb spacers from the flat tops or the long carb spacers from the 3 screw carbs? I am in the middle of the same swap on my 260Z

If your wife (or you ) likes to scrapbook, here's something you might like. Tonight, my wife found a rubber stamp store on the web that carries the #46 BRE 510, stock 510, and 240Z rubber stamps. 510 stamps http://www.stampingontheritz.com/modules/xoopsgallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album15&page=2 Z stamp http://www.stampingontheritz.com/modules/xoopsgallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album15&page=4

Tire brand will certainly have some impact as well. One thing I always point out is that just because your tires don't rub in "normal" conditions doesn't mean they won't rub. The only way to know if your tires rub is to remove the springs and run the suspension through full wheel travel. It makes no difference if a car has been lowered or not - the tire envelope is the same. Hit a big enough primary ride event and you WILL bottom whether the car is lowered or not. Better to know up front than to ruin a tire and/or fender upon hitting a big bump. Now that I trimmed mine, I can safely hit anything without worrying about wrinkling a fender. When I first got my tires and wheels I tore a large chunk of rubber off a tire (the groove can be seen in the pics above) when I went over rough RR tracks with a passenger. There is a local road course with a large enough rise to get all four wheels off the ground. Landing from that will fully compress a Z suspension. Like Dave said, you will have car-to-car variations.

Yep, Enigma got it right. Sell the DGVs and buy a set of 3 screw SUs. As for the diff mount, buy a new OE mount from MSA or Courtesy Nissan. If you want to improve the design, go to hybridz and to a search for diff mount. Someone there sells a top mount to replace the strap. This mount eliminates the torn mount blues without ruining your interior noise. A soilid mount will be unbearable. I have a new stock front mount and poly mustache bushings and it's way too loud. I will likely go back to OE mustache bushings. For the plugs, buy the NGK BR6ES-11 (I think that's right). Just have the parts guy look up the stock plugs. They run less than $2 each. The "-11" just means they are pre-gapped. You don't have to buy the "-11" if they don't have them.

Anthony, 225/50R16 tires on zero offset rims WILL RUB the rear fender lips. I had to roll and trim my fenders to make them clear. You will need a +6 on a 7" rim and +??? on an 8" rim. If you go with a shorter or narrower tire, you might be okay, but if you want the 225/50R16 tires, you will need to trim the fender lips with or without flares. Check out this thread to see what I had to do. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35079&highlight=fender

Ahh, so AutoZone will order it for you by the case? That might be the way to go. Right now, I'm running 50wt, but that's a bit thick for a fresh engine.

I wish Valvoline VR1 was easier to find. The chain stores only have 20W50 and 50wt. I think I read that Napa carries it in 30wt and 40wt, but I don't have a Napa close by.

Nice! When put next to a little S30, the R35 looks HUGE! Will the gold Z have the trademark family spook?

Now you just need to find a clean set of three screw SUs to replace the Weber DGVs. Very nice find!

That's exactly what I have in mine. It's made by Continental. Great for a nail hole, but worthless for a cut. Also, it leaves a mess of latex in the tire.

Like Steve said, you may have rust in the tank. If that's the case, the filter screen in the new pump would be clean to start with and then clog - not allowing it to start the next time. Pull the fuel inlet to the pump and remove the filter. If you see gunk, you have to drop and clean the tank. Been there, done that. If it's clean, look at the electrical system.

Sweet videos. I love the gigantic camera mounted on the 914. We've come a long way in in-car footage.