Jeff G 78

i gutted a spark plug and installed a bolt through the center with the end ground smooth. I then turn the crank slowly until the piston stops from the stopper. The length of the stopper bolt should cause the piston to stop 5° - 10° from TDC. I note the number on the degree wheel and then rotate the crank backwards until it stops again. Again, I note the number on the degree wheel. I rotate the degree wheel on the crank the number of degrees it takes to make the CW and CCW numbers match. I then do it all again to double check that the degree wheel is exactly zeroed at TDC. From there, I can start checking timing per the cam timing card. I use the eccentric sleeves from a SBC as described in the How To Modify Your L Series book.

That's just wrong

It's amazing how many parts were still good though. I am using the mustache bar, aftermarket swaybars and the front crossmember on my race car after I modified the pivot points. I'm sure there are many others as well that I can't think of at the moment. ?

LOL. I bought the car in 1992 for $500 as a beater/parts car and drove it for about six months before parking it in my dad's garage. Over the years, the garage roof rotted and leaked near where the car was parked so the garage was really damp all the time. He built a nice new pole barn in about 2001 and the car was dragged (due to the locked rear brakes) into the new garage at that time. I decided to retrieve the car in 2009 as a donor car for my race car build. We stripped the good parts and cut the car up for scrap metal a few weeks after these pics were taken. When we cut the car up, the RH side of the firewall was so rotten that we didn't even have to cut it. The car literally had no good metal from the windshield to behind the seat on the RH side. Here's how bad the rot actually was in the car. From the outside, it didn't look all that bad, but the underside looked like it had been on the Titanic.

That was after at least an hour of heating, soaking, and hammering. In one of the pics you can see a pipe under the car. I was using a sledge hammer on the opposite side of the car to hit the pipe which was against the fins on the drum. Cutting the drum off was the only way I could get the car to move. There was no way I was going to be defeated!

Depending on how bad they are, it might require drastic measures. I had one rusty old 280Z parts car that had been stored for about a decade and the drums were so seized on that I had to cut the drums in two. Even then, they were a bear to pry off. Hopefully it doesn't come to this! Good luck.

Don't do it! L-Jetronic EFI and bigger cams do not play nice. I tried to put a Web Racing #91 grind street cam in my L28 and it ran like crap. After some research, I learned that L-Jet relies on proper engine vacuum and the cam reduced the amount of vacuum created. The car idled poorly, had no power through most of the rev range and at best, had a bit more power up top. I pulled the cam and went back to stock. I then installed the same cam in a L28 with very similar compression, but fed via SU carbs and it runs great. I couldn't be happier with the performance.

The tires you want will likely rub in the rear. The fronts might rub on the inside with that offset. A +6mm offset would be closer to what you want. My car has 225/50R16 max performance summer tires on 7 inch zero offset rims and they rubbed HARD in the rear. The fronts rub while backing and turning.

Tire choice is just as critical as rim width and offset. Even tires in the same size can vary greatly in shape and true width. What is the purpose of your car? Cars and Coffee? Daily Driver? Weekend cruiser? Track car? This MUST be your first question. If you only want it to look good and be a fun car, go with a 205/55R16 high performance tire. If you must have maximum grip, you will need to end up with a squarer tire that is more likely to rub.

Great advice. I lost one on the highway when I hit a bump. ?

I would suggest not running poly bushings on both sides of the body where the Tension/Compression Rod attaches. The common process is to run the poly bushings on the front side and use stock rubber bushings on the back side of the body mount. Poly/poly is too stiff and won't let the TC rod articulate properly. You didn't say if you have a full poly bushing set, but if not, be sure to install new poly steering rack mount bushings. While you are at it, your steering rack boots are likely old and dried out, so when you do the tie rods, install new rubber boots on the rack.

Depends on the brand and model of tire. My Hankook RS-2 225/50R16 tires on zero offset rims rubbed on my car. The very high performance summer tires tend to have squarer profiles and can rub.

My dad bought my mom a vacuum in the mid-70's and she's still mad about it! I learned my lesson at an early age and never made that mistake. ? Merry Christmas everybody!

Front reservoir is for rear brakes and rear is for front brakes. Are you getting fluid out of the rear bleeders? Did you bench bleed the MC? If not, do that first. Put a 6" long hose from the front bleed port on the side of the MC and with the cap off, put the other end into the reservoir under the fluid line. Crack the bleeder just enough to get flow and slowly pump the brake pedal. Close the bleeder and repeat for the rear port. Once done you can start bleeding the rear wheel cylinders starting with the driver's rear. If you are not getting fluid, you have a blockage somewhere. Either a hose has collapsed, you have gunk in a line, or there is something in the proportioning valve.

Your neon sign looks much bigger than the one I listed. Very cool Guy!

Hey Guy, Is this neon sign the one that is currently selling or is it an old sign? The one for sale now looks pretty nice for about $150. EDIT: Now that I actually pulled up the new one, I see it's not the same one. It still looks pretty nice though. https://www.brilliantneonsigns.com/optin-25175707?fbclid=IwAR0wwYZkdAzPb2M0YVxIUJeNw7UApDsmbR87wI7PdTBeCdHJMM8mYEu9n10

PM sent

My friend is going to go back and get the part numbers for me on the exact rotor and calipers so we can determine the model years of each.

They should be S197 which is 2005-2014. I looked up 2010, I think but it doesn’t matter.

According to Rockauto, the Mustang is a 43mm and the Maxima is a 38mm

Probably the same supplier for both. The Mustang rotor is vented. Unlike the Z31 rotor, it has to be drilled for four lug. I plan to make a drill jig to make replacement rotors easier.

@grannyknot Is the Maxima caliper the same as the photo I posted? Silver mine has different brackets for the Maxima and Mustang calipers. Weird...

The Silvermine stage 4 kit is Mustang GT rotors and calipers. The Maxima kit is stage 2, I believe. From everything I've read, the Maxima kit is too small for the 4 pot fronts just like you have found. That is why the stage 4 rears "should" pair well with the 4 pot vented fronts. I just haven't found anyone yet that has actually used them on a track.

How do you like the Mustang GT (stage 4) rear kit @grannyknot? What front brakes do you run? I am about to get the Silvermine stage 4 brackets and piece that rear setup together from Mustang parts on hand for my 260 endurance race car. I plan to pair the Mustang rear setup with the typical vented Toyota 4 pot front setup and likely a Wilwood 1" MC. A friend has the same front and rear brakes on his 240Z vintage racer, but he hasn't actually tried it yet. I did take one of my Konig Rewind 15x7 wheels over to his house and it fit over the rear brake setup. His Enkie Classic Compe 15x7 wheels have a ton of room, while my Rewinds are fairly tight, but both fit.

Here, play with this handy website. http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp