Jeff G 78
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Everything posted by Jeff G 78
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Sounds like a solid plan. Be sure to post pics of the coated spoiler. I'm undecided whether I like the original or the new version better for a street car.
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Let us know if the creaks stay away or return over time.
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I run a stock filter on my SU-fed modded P79 engine. It runs great. -
I was travelling South on I-75 near Toledo today and I spotted a green 280Z on a trailer. I recognized the Z from a NW Ohio Craigslist ad. I just wondered if we have a new Z in the state of MI?
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TTT makes very high quality stuff, but I would be afraid of those on rough roads. They completely eliminate recession which is a huge contributor to impact harshness. I have poly on my street Z and I hate them. I'm going back to rubber on that car. My race car TC rods have poly on the front side of the body with old rubber bushings behind the body and it handles impacts much better than my all poly street Z.
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BRE spoilers look great body colored or as a contrasting color. My plan is to install a BRE spoiler on my 517 Light Gold 280Z and paint the spoiler dark gray to match my Panasports. I haven't yet decided whether to go with chrome or powder coated Futofab 240Z bumpers. If I get the painted bumpers, I'll recoat them in matching dark gray.
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What do they weigh? They look rather heavy.
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So purdy!
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If you have your shop plumbed for air, it is important to give yourself a water trap and drain. Here is an example that we use at our local workshop. The ball valve can be cracked to drain the water from the line without removing the air hose. The trap also keeps water from accumulating when not in use. Sorry for the sideways pic. It is correct on my computer. The forum is turning it for some reason.
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Nice work! I did that on my '78 about 25 years ago.
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Just that the Dale rebuilds are known to be the best. Knowing what happens when they fail, I'd rather have them rebuild a OE damper with the best bonding agents. I believe they still charge about $110 so the cost is similar. They come with a lifetime warranty too. I've had dampers fail on my race car and it's not pretty.
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I don't understand the new forum software. I couldn't get my reply outside the quote box.
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Yeah, the pics are too grainy to tell where the jack stand points are. I put jack stands right at the LCA pivot point of the front crossmember and the rears on the crossmember just outside the front diff mount. I angle the rear stands to match the angle of the control arms.
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The rails on pretty much every S30 are dented for just that reason. You'd think they would be strong enough, but they are not. They will crush if used to support the car. Even on rust-free cars, the rails are weak.
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On a hoist, I'll use the rocker pinch flanges, but even on a rust-free Z, I use the same points you do. The diff isn't the best place to lift though since it stresses the mustache bar bushings. If you have poly bushings, it shouldn't do any damage. As for the diff, only the rear cover is aluminum and there is zero chance of damaging it. The mounting bolts are in shear.
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That is a really odd noise. I've listened several times and I'm stumped so far. It doesn't sound internal to the engine
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I have an RT mount in my 260. Great product, but I don't think I would install another one without removing the diff. I eventually did get it in there, but it was much harder than it should have been.
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Nice pickup. If I ever find a deal, I might pick up a set of triples. Even if they sit on a shelf for a few years, I'd like to put them on a car someday. I had a set of Webers on a 240, but I was moving and had to sell the car. My 280 has a well-functioning EFI, but I would consider swapping it to triples. My race car has SU's and those are perfect for that application.
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Wow, I never knew that there were two different close-ratio S130 boxes. I always thought that the close-ratio box came in '81 with the F54 engine.
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Completely true Chas, but after 40 years, unless you are the original owner and know the history of the car, it's very possible that one or more of the components has been swapped. I always check the collar height just to be sure and I've found them to be different than OE quite a few times.
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Like others stated, I think you might have a throwout bearing collar mismatch. You likely left the throwout bearing in the "new" trans before installing it, but it might be taller than the collar in the 4 speed trans. Get under the car and see if there is play between the slave cylinder rod and the clutch fork. If there is no play and you don't have an adjustable slave from a 240Z, you will need to pull the trans and swap the collar back to the one from the 4 speed trans. Don't drive it the way it is if the collar is wrong. You will ruin the clutch and burn the flywheel.
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Look for a 180 - 200TW tire. They are sticky summer tires, yet won't be race-only.
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Unfortunately, I doubt we could make it work. I don't remember having any slack in the fuse box wiring and certainly not in the ECU wiring.
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There are actually several good summer tires, but Tire Rack and other retailers do not sell them in the winter, so it's a bit hard to look them up right now. Look at the following: Hankook RS3 Dunlop Start Spec Toyo RA1 BFG Rival That said, you might struggle to find a street size in 15". Racers run 225/45R15 and there are some great tires available, but the OD is about 1.5" smaller than stock. On my street Z, I run a 16" wheel because 205/55R16 and 225/50R16 tires are widely available.
