Jeff G 78

Yep, Tony swears by them, so that's good enough for me.

Something is wrong. Either something isn't seated properly, or the ball stud isn't threading in and out right, or ??? You should be able to run the ball stud down to the point that there is a huge lash. First, is it running down all the way? If not, you found the issue. If it is, check to make sure the lash pad isn't turned sideways. If it is, the rocker will not be seated properly in the lash pad and will cause the lack of adjustment range. If you need to remove a lash pad, simply use a large flat screwdriver to open the valve and remove the pad. Rotate the engine so that the cam lobe in question is pointing up and then remove the spring holding the rocker to the ball stud. Just use your fingers and pull it over the end of the rocker. Now put the screwdriver under the cam with the blade on top of the valve spring cap. Position the shaft of the screwdriver so that it is on the cast portion (not the lobe) of the cam and pry up on the handle. The valve will open and you can remove the rocker. Once the rocker is out of the way, you can remove the lash pad. To answer your other question, no, the cam doesn't have to be perfectly aligned. There is about a 120° window where you are on the base circle with no valve lift.

I kind of looks like something Campagnolo would have made, but a quick search doesn't show any that match.

Hey Andy. Your paint is looking great. We still need to talk. I have to have a definitive plan for the engine shop.

There are lots of Chump and LeMons racers in TX. The best way to learn about the racing is to go watch a race. I can hook you up with a fellow Z racer from TX if you are interested. As for mods, check out my FB page in my sig for what I've done to mine.

Tom, LeMons doesn't actually race at Nelson. They did once in 2009, but now only ChumpCar runs there. I've run the LeMons race there as well as the ChumpCar races there.

Hey ksechler, here is a rolling shell that might be a great buy. At first glance, it looks too expensive, but I doubt you could buy a shell and get it to this point for less money. I have no idea of the quality of the work or how bad it was to start with, but if it was built right, it would make a great project car. The engine and trans are the cheap part. 1978 DATSUN 280z rolling chasis Sell or Trade

Don't be afraid to buy a shell from AZ or CA and ship it home. Waiting for a rust-free shell local to you is a lost cause.

Jan, yes, the 240mm clutch is for a 2+2. You will need the 225mm clutch assuming you have a coupe.

I run 1/8" toe out in the front for crisper turn-in.

Nice toy collection RJ.

Looks great Mike!

I added a header to my '78 many years ago, but retained the stock cold-end. I cannot tell any difference in sound inside or outside the car. Keep in mind that most people swap the cold-end when they add a header so that will drastically affect the interior noise levels.

Chase, do you have a link to the ebay Honda bar? It looks like there are many different styles and contours. Which style fits the S30?

No offense, but eewww. If you want to go with something different, how about these? 16 16x8 XXR 531 Black Wheels Rims 0 Deep Dish Lip 4x4 5 Datsun 240Z 260z 280z | eBay

Leon, did your wheels come from MSA? If so, they are likely +6 since MSA had custom offsets made to minimize rubbing. Mine came from a regular Panasport retailer just after MSA quit selling them, so they are zero offset. I agree that my Hankooks are possibly on the wide side with square shoulders to boot, but the whole stance looks wider on mine. It was lucky that both pictures are almost the same vantage point. I'd really like to try the 225/45R16 tires next time to give me more front and rear clearance.

I'm curious why people order staggered fitments. They don't improve handling. Z cars usually understeer at the limit and wider rears only make it worse.

Leon, if I had to guess, I'd say you have some positive offset. Look at where your tires sit in the fenders compared to mine.

I'm now also on the lookout for a used round port header. I'm building a F54/shaved P79 engine for my 260Z ChumpCar racer.

I run 225/50R16 on 16x7 zero offset Panasports and mine rubbed on all four corners. You are likely OK in the front if you go with +4 as Arne suggested, but in my case, even +4 would not have helped the rear rub. I tried to roll and when that didn't do it, I trimmed the flange by about 10mm. One option is to run the new Dunlop Direzza ZII in a 225/45R16. The diameter will be better for gearing, rubbing and overall looks IMHO. I think my 225/50R16 tires look a tad tall on the car. The first pic shows my clearance test with the spring removed. After trimming, the tire just clears the lip. The second pic shows the trimmed lip.

Keeping the PS will be tricky. Seriously though, you can shed about 80 lbs by replacing the big bumpers and shocks with either 240 chrome or fiberglass/CF bumpers. Besides the bumpers, you can ditch the spare tire and jack/tools, replace the iron exhaust manifold with a header, install a smaller battery, remove the mastic from the interior, and install a fiberglass or CF hood.

I wouldn't try to use the stock FI pump for carbs. Either use a mechanical pump or install a low pressure electric pump.

The ECU only controls the engine. You are safe.

Kurbycar32, Were the shafts on the back worn out like the ones pictured above? I'm just curious what all was replaced by the locksmith.

I checked AutoZone and the Maxima locks look similar to the pre-'77 Z locks. Thos might be a good alternative to the Ebay locks, but the coat hanger fix or cutting/welding is still needed for the '77-'78 cars.