Jeff G 78

How much will that run you Steve?

I have not used one myself, but I've heard good thins about Dale Mfg. Dampers. They rebuild stock dampers. http://www.dalemfg.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm

I like Valvoline VR-1 which also has high ZDDP. I get it at Napa. I run my Z for 24+ hours straight on the track in ChumpCar and I've have no oil related issues at all. I run straight 40 weight if the ambient temps are reasonable.

I agree with Wade. My 260 race car lights are H4 Autopals from H4Lights.com. The biggest bang for the buck is the wiring. I did use 12 AWG wire and relays with great results. I can run two sets of H4 lights with my very old 50 amp alternator and they put out amazing light even at idle. You can upgrade the lights all you want, but without doing the wiring and relays, you will be disappointed. Once the wiring is upgraded, you can decide if the halogens are enough.

Merry Christmas Phillip and all the other site members! And yes, get your Zed out of the snow.

Andrew, your link didn't work. Which Northern one do you have?

Steve, That style compressor works great on "normal" struts, but on a Z, you'd have to take apart too much of the suspension to be practical. In the rear, you'd have to either remove the spindle pin or wrestle the whole corner assembly into the compressor.

It all depends. I have seen cars with that size have no clearance issues and others rub in the front or rear or both. I think tire brand and model contribute more than anything. I run Hankook RS2 tires on zero offset rims and I had to do a lot of cutting in the rear. I trimmed somewhere around 8mm off my flanges. Others have run the same sizes, but different tires with no rubbing. I run badly in the front when turning and backing up. It clears fine when sitting still or going forward. +4mm will certainly help compared to zero offset, but the 8" wide rims might give a bit of that back. The shoulder of the tire probably won't be much different between a 7" and an 8" rim, but I haven't tested them back to back. I argue this point every time someone asks about lowering... Lowering a car does not change the tire clearance at all. The tires still need to be able to travel all the way through suspension travel without rubbing. Lowering a car only changes the starting point, but the path stays the same. Check this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread35079.html for pics of my trimming and clearance tests

A plasma cutter?

I have used my 25+ year old strut spring compressors more times than I can count and they getting really worn out. The threads are worn and I have sheared the roll pins several times due to binding. Mine have only a single hook at each end with no safety pins or anything else fancy. Even my simple compressors have trouble fitting between the coils. Is there a brand that fits our coils while still on the car (swung out) and is made well? I looked around the web and there are many styles, but none like the ones I have been using since the mid-80's. I'm pretty sure that anything with a double hook will not fit well. Some of them also have a safety pin that holds the coil. That too seems like it wouldn't fit on a S30 spring. Others have a secondary hook at one end. Here are some examples of what I have found. Do any of these work well on a S30, or does anyone have a favorite brand that fits well on a S30? EDIT: I can't seem to delete the blank attachment. Ignore the last one.

Nice videos Chris. That track looks like a lot of fun.

I have no idea what you mean. I wouldn't know anything about throwing magnesium auto parts on a campfire and then spraying it with water. Nope... I had no idea magnesium even burns.

I've had to do that on at least three different cars. Once the aluminum and steel corrode together, no amount of heat or force will break them apart. Even after the face of the drum is broken in two, the remains are still tough to separate from the hub. In each case, it was a parts car, so I just needed to get the wheels to roll so I could move the car without dragging the rear tires.

If I re-theme my race car, I might just have to copy that.

Assuming it isn't corroded together, you just need to back off the brake adjuster and slip the drum off. If it is REALLY corroded, nothing short of destroying the drum will work. I've had to cut many parts car drums in half when the car sat for many years in a damp area. :tapemouth Be sure to ALWAYS apply antiseize to the hub pilot prior to reinstalling the drum.

More pics please!

Nice to see you back Norm!

Double zombie thread!!! It was first revived in 2007 after three years and now again after five more years. What we have here is a Zombie Apocalypse!

It's easy to do like the others said. Use several feet of 3/8" rope and a KD3087 valve spring tool. You can do one retainer in a matter of 30 minutes total.

Nice car, but I wouldn't pay that much for a basket case. He's probably being honest, but without being able to test drive it, you couldn't tell if the rest of the car is sound. The trans, diff, and suspension could all need work. Also, he doesn't say much about the body or paint. I see a crease down the driver's side that would need to be repaired and repainted.

Rob, that looks like an adult-size Matchbox case. Very cool!

That is a seriously bad-arse car Brandon!

^^^hee hee^^^

Are you really running 215/65R16 tires? Those would be over 2 inches taller than stock.

Wow, awesome car Christine! That paint is phenomenal.