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Jeff G 78

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Everything posted by Jeff G 78

  1. Jeff G 78
    You want turdmobile, here you go... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-DATSUN-280Z-/120957465204?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item1c29a07274#ht_500wt_1182 The wiring is just as scary as the body. :sick:
  2. Jeff G 78
    I have no problem with mods and I can appreciate craftsmanship, but some mods move the car out of the Z realm for me. For example, a GTO bodied Z is no longer a Z. It's a GTO kit car. A Z with a SBC isn't to my taste, but it's still more of a Z than a GTO replica. Same goes for convertible Z cars. Once the roofline is changed, it's not really a Z to me. I do like regular body kits including front and rear fascias, wings, airdams, flairs, etc. I think many of those enhance the Z-ness of the car if don't right. This might wizz some people off, but to me, a bone-stock 2+2 S30 is barely a Z. They can look good with mods, but the stock ones are a huge compromise to what a Z is all about. Again, I think it's the roofline.
  3. Jeff G 78
    It looks great! Just a suggestion - You might want to find a different rear lifting point. Once the engine is in, that bolt is right at the firewall and will be hard to reach and remove. One of my engines was missing the factory lifting eye, so I was able to make one from some scrap steel. I think it was a Z distributor base plate, but I can't remember.
  4. Jeff G 78
    It all depends on how far rearward the damage went. My '78 was hit before I bought it and I had the whole left front corner cut off and replaced. It wasn't as bad as yours an it had already been pulled, but I decided to cut and replace. It is now straight and solid. These pics are scans from 20+ years ago, so they are a bit small an grainy. Here it is with the bent steel cut out Here is the donor inner fender, strut tower and rail And here it is after welding and painting Here is it after reassembly
  5. Jeff G 78
    I have taken a sawzall to better Z cars than that.
  6. Jeff G 78
    I use the Permatex High Tack spray-on sealer. It's not as messy as the brown stuff and comes off without too much work the next time you have the cover off. I tend to have my race motor apart fairly often, so I don't want to spend a lot of time cleaning the surfaces. The red spray stuff comes clean with a razor blade and scotch brite. I've been using it on front covers for 25 years and have never had a leak. I think the can I use has lasted about 10 years and has done 10+ Z motors. Simply lay the gaskets on cardboard and spray them with a light coating of the sticky red sealant. After a few minutes, turn them over and repeat. Give them another few minutes to dry a bit and install. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Spray-A-Gasket_Sealant.htm
  7. Jeff G 78
    The "styling" means nothing. It's a Motor Trend artist's guess at what it might look like. I love the idea of a smaller AND lighter sports car. The 370 is too heavy. and expensive for big sales numbers.
  8. Jeff G 78
    Jim, did you use the poly TC bushings as they came in the set in front and back of the mount? If so, start by replacing the backs with rubber and leave the fronts poly. If you still have them, you can use old worn out ones as long as they aren't in terrible shape.
  9. Jeff G 78
    You replaced everything at once, right? I believe that the poly TC bushings are the culprit of the issues. My 280 has poly everything and, like yours, it's brutal. My 260 has poly steering rack bushings only and it has none of the kick or harshness. You might try swapping the TC parts first before you swap the rack bushings.
  10. Jeff G 78
    It's a mass damper and it's not for clunk, but rather for another NVH error state like moan. By now, it's unlikely to accomplish whatever it was designed to do. I'd be willing to bet Nissan added it at the last minute and never fixed the original issue. These are common in modern cars and can be found on almost any new car regardless of brand. They are most common on exhausts, but could be anywhere. I have a huge bar on my 260 and it still clears the mass damper. If you want to remove it or need to for clearance, go right ahead. You most likely won't feel any difference.
  11. Jeff G 78
    I like that. My Porter Cable 60 gallon compressor has the original drain valve and it's a pain to get to and operate. I might have to upgrade it to a 1/4 turn ball valve out in the open like yours.
  12. Jeff G 78
    Looking great Guy. Keep the pics coming.
  13. Jeff G 78
    Could the rack have been changed?
  14. Jeff G 78
    How hard were they to install? The correct bushings are a pain in the arse to seat. If the driver's side bushing went in easy, then I agree with the above posts and you have a 240 kit. I've never had any rack movement after installing new bushings.
  15. Jeff G 78
    No pics, sorry. Make sure you have the '78 FSM and read the engine mechanical section over and over before you begin. Once you understand it, follow it to the letter. If you simply do that, you should be fine. Everything you need to know is in that manual.
  16. Jeff G 78
    Yes. Turn the engine to #1 TDC before you take the old head off and then wedge the chain. You can buy a wedge or make one. I made one from a scrap of wood 25 years ago and I've used it dozens of times. The dimensions are in the FSM if you want to get fancy. Once it's wedged, do not turn the crank at all or you will lose everything and be forced to pull the front cover.
  17. Jeff G 78
    With the right wrenches, you can do it very easily, but with the wrong wrench and/or an aftermarket stabilizer bar, it won't work. I use a Snap-On double box 12/14 wrench and I can have the driveshaft off in less than 2 minutes. If you remove the bolts and drop the stabilizer bar at the pivots, you will have plenty of space, but that is not needed with the right wrench.
  18. Jeff G 78
    Has the "new" N47 been swapped to a spray bar setup? The N47 I have is the only one I have ever seen with a factory spray bar.
  19. Jeff G 78
    What head are you switching to? If it's an older head, it won't be machined for injectors. You can see the notches above the intake ports. I have no idea if the notches can easily be added. I've never put a carb head on a FI engine.
  20. Jeff G 78
    If you are swapping the whole head, it's pretty straight forward. I would suggest having the new head fully measured. The last thing you need is to install a warped head or one that has been shaved beyond the limits. DAMHIK.
  21. Jeff G 78
    It's easy to go from a spray bar to an internally oiled cam, but to go the other way, you'd need to swap towers. Personally, I wouldn't try that. Chances are high that you'd struggle to get them aligned.
  22. Jeff G 78
    I let this one slide because it was obvious he was trying to do research an asked a follow-up question. Most noobs try to answer zombie posts.
  23. Jeff G 78
    The N47 is fine. It was thought that the liners restricted flow, but that has been debunked for the most part.
  24. Jeff G 78
    Same.
  25. Jeff G 78
    Not sure if it's on the '76, but on the '78, there is an unused blade connector on the RH kick panel above the fusebox. I went through the same search and someone on the forum pointed me to that source.
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