Jeff G 78

I have a PW list on my phone, but everything is in shorthand. I have various combinations of PW's for different sites depending on the type of site and requirements. My list tells me enough to know it, but not enough for anybody else to figure it out. As for the scammers, I've seen some good automated safeguards on other forums. Some force the first post to be in the introduction forum and then also block posts in certain sub-forums until a specified timeframe and/or post count is reached. For example, classifieds cannot be posted or replied to for 30 days after the intro post. @mike is there any way to automatically block a second post until the member receives a certain number of likes on the intro post? We as members could take the pressure off of you if this is possible. There are enough old timers that could weed out the real members from the bots. We could "like" the real posts. Once they reach five likes, they are approved to post again. It should take less than 30 minutes to reach five likes and it would be spelled out upon joining. The new members could also not give likes until they are approved to keep the bots from liking their own posts from different accounts. This would put the burden on us to police the scammers and bots. Another idea would be to give contributing members the authority to hide posts. There are enough paying members to keep the bot posts off the board. You could then delete and ban when you have time.

Why would you want to? Run a ZX distributor.

Just run the L28 gasket. I never ran SU's on the street, so I cannot answer, but try it as-is first and see if you have any heat issues. If so, then you can address the heat. FYI, don't attempt to wrap the fuel rail to keep the heat out. It won't work. It will just make a nice thermal layer to hold the conductive heat in. If you have issues in the FL heat, you can perform a simple test to see if eliminating the rail fixes it. It took me less than 10 minutes to cut some hoses, add T fittings and clamps and clamp off the return hose. I did this during a pit stop in a 14 hour race. $10 worth of fuel hose, T fittings and clamps will prove or disprove that the issue is the rail. When I raced, the manifold and later, the header, would glow cherry red. You couldn't see it during the day, but it was really wild to open the hood during a night pit stop and see the glow. We'd always open the hood and check the oil at every 2-hour fuel stop. We were obviously making a LOT of heat compared to anything on the street.

To answer the question Cliff, yes, the carbs work fine on the N47 or P79. I used a round port header with a P79 manifold gasket. There was no issue at all with the injector notches. As to the original question, I've read that you can run the square port header on a round port head, but I've never tried it and I'd imagine that you'd lose a bit of low end power, but not a lot. I'm not sure which gasket to run when you do the square/round combo. I'd ceramic coat the header or sell it and buy a round port header already coated. I would only wrap the header if it's a race car that is always run hard. Florida is too humid IMHO for wrap. The header will rot quickly. I learned after a lot of trial and mostly error that the header coating/wrap will not prevent vapor lock. On my race car, I finally figured out that ditching the fuel rail and running rubber fuel lines to the carbs with no return was the best way to keep the fuel cool. The steel rail bolted to the head was a recipe for conductive heat right into the fuel.

Me too. We have used them at work for years. They used to be wired which was a bit of a pain near spinning components. I'm curious if the commercial version and the consumer version give similar quality.

With only a few threads showing, I doubt that is the cause. When I had the issue, I showed 3 - 4 threads. The next thing I'd check is simple play everywhere. Put the car on jack stands and then put a floor jack under the tire. Have a helper slowly jack the tire until the spring begins to deflect while you watch and feel the strut top mount. There should be no noise or movement from full droop to the start of travel. Repeat the same test and watch/feel the stabilizer bar end links, inner, and outer control arm pivots, and even the mustache bar to diff and to the body. Chances are good, the issue is in the strut somewhere since that's what changed before and after the noise began. If that fails to provide answers, have someone drive the car over small bumps while you listen to a stethoscope with the end on the top nut of the strut. You should be able to confirm if the noise is coming from the strut or elsewhere. If that too fails, Chassis Ear will be needed. They are the same as a stethoscope, but are wireless and can be attached to various chassis parts so you can listen while you drive over the proper input. The noise can be isolated to a specific component rather than knowing that it's coming from the rear of the car. Chassis Ears are about $100 for a basic setup. https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-06600-ChassisEAR-Electronic-Squeak/dp/B000IHIAES/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2K7L0ZJIEUAHF&keywords=chassis%2Bears&qid=1645206093&s=automotive&sprefix=chassis%2Bears%2Cautomotive%2C139&sr=1-5&th=1

I've seen several times when replacing strut cartridges that the new gland nuts that came with the cartridges were too tall and the threads bottomed out prior to clamping the strut cartridge into the tube. I had to use the old gland nuts and then there was no vertical gap between the cartridge and the inside of the nut. With the spring off, the cartridge should not have any axial play. If there is any play, it will bang. With the spring installed, it's impossible to tell if there is play, although if you see a lot of exposed threads, chances are good this is your issue.

Maybe so, but the thread title might be seen by a potential DS customer who then doesn't take the time to read through all the posts to get to the truth. It's not fair to DS to have their brand tarnished for what was at most an unfortunate misunderstanding. The customer and DS should have done a better job detailing the expectations, but the customer should have never moved forward without funds in hand to pay. Hoping you have funds in 12 months is a recipe for failure which is what the end result was.

I remember the whole James Burgess mess. I have no problem with the thread in question being deleted. I thought it should have happened a few pages sooner.

Thanks @YZFMax. It looks great,

Nice. Do you happen to have any closer pics with better light?

Did you do anything with the lower grille or is it the stock big-bumper grille? I plan to do the same setup, but with a powder coated 240Z bumper.

I really need to take mine out of the box and fit it. I think I've had it for about 8 years. 🤣

$50k for what I'd want is out of my range. It looks like I'll be driving my car for a bit longer and maybe think about a used one in 5 years.

I kind of want one, but ??? Where I live in AZ, Nissans are hugely popular and I see lots of Z33's and Z34's, but they are all total drifter wanna-be's. Most are slammed and have mismatched body panels with ricer exhausts. S30's tend to be tastefully modded as do S130's, Z31's and Z32's, but the newer stuff is a mess. Depending on what the new Z really costs, I might possibly consider it, but it would have to drive really well for me to give up my DD 996 and have a car payment again.

Storage conditions have a lot to do with tire life. They will continue to degrade no matter how they are stored, but proper storage will extend the usable life. Seven years is the industry standard for service life, but that can be extended. I used to always pull my good summer tires and store them in the basement covered. They were still in great shape and usable 15 years later, though I wouldn't push the car hard. If the car is stored on it's tires, they need to be overinflated to max sidewall pressure to minimize flat spotting. Nitrogen inflation will also help, but I never bothered with that. 10 years is a good max life if they don't get used much and are stored in good environmental conditions. I bought a Saab 900 Turbo a few years ago that hadn't been moved in 17 years and was sitting in a fairly humid garage with the tires underinflated. The Michelin tires were already quite a few years old when it was last driven and yet they still looked like new with zero cracking. I immediately replaced them before I ever took it around the block once I got it running.

No, but I will try that. Thanks!

I've been getting the same voicemails for about a month and always from different numbers. The voicemails claim to be from ATT Direct TV and leave a call back number, but a search confirms they are not legit. I get anywhere from 5 to 20 per day and then they will stop for a day or two and start back up. I tried the setting in my Android phone which did nothing and then I tried to use the Verizon spam blocker app. It gives me a message that I cannot use that feature as my phone is tied to a corporate account. Uhhh no, it's my personal phone...

I like the chrome mirrors like the ones on the green car, but I never thought they looked right on a 280Z and finding decent quality LH and RH ones similar is tough. I ended up with a stock LH mirror like on your car and I will likely weld the holes up in the right door and stick with just one. Due to my super tiny garage opening, I had to find mirror(s) that were tucked in. It turns out that the OE LH mirror barely adds any width to the car. As for alternate mirrors, the best case scenario IMHO would be for somebody to duplicate the factory LH mirror as a RH, but that's never going to happen. Next best would be an alternate OE mirror as the original post was about. That too seems to be very unlikely as they are all too big and the angle is all wrong. Almost all modern mirrors are sail panel mounted and not door mounted. To me, door mirrors are one of the most lacking items in the Datsun aftermarket.

Glad you are back to work Cliff. I had it last April. I had a 103 fever for a few days and I was light-headed whenever I stood up. Other than that, it was a few days of a bad cold and then I felt fine. I had to take two weeks off work even though I felt fine a week ahead of that.

Is there enough room to fit it without the jam nut? If so, you could use Loctite to keep the ball nut from vibrating and moving.

The rod is put together wrong. The ball nut goes on the other side of the release arm. The lock nut keeps it from backing off. They do not sandwich the arm.

Yep, super slow on both my laptop and my phone. Mine times out often as well.

Wow, what a beauty! Congrats!

Crap! I knew I should have written the size down. I was out and had to go to the hardware store for other stuff and then remembered to look for the O-ring. Thanks for the smack into the side of the head to wake me up! 🙂