Jeff G 78

Interesting KTM. I've never heard of doing that.

The original link works again, but unfortunately someone messed up the data again in the 280 section. The VIN column is shifted.

Thanks Steve, My 260 was built in October '74. EDIT: Corrected build month of my 260.

Is the registry down? I'm getting an error when I try to open it.

I'm looking for late 260 fuel tank sending unit for my track car. I can't remember off hand what years have the same sender, but it's the tank that has the sender in the front like a 240. Have any?

Hard to see the quality in pics, but it looks great. Nice job.

I think your 15x7 Libres... err Retro 4's will be the new hot wheel for the S30. I have a set of 14x5.5 Libre copies, but they are just too narrow. They were on a '76 I bought back in 1985 and they have now been in storage for 25 years.

I doubt it matters. I have a Fel Pro in both of my Z's and they work fine. I bought the complete Fel Pro engine kit otherwise I'd buy Beck Arnley.

The MSA seal should be fine, but you might also check with www.rockauto.com. I have been buying all my parts there lately with great success. Before you install the new seal, run your finger around the crank and feel for any burrs or grooves. If you find any burrs, sand them off. If you find grooves, install the seal slightly inboard or outboard to avoid them.

Stephen, if he was just doing a main seal, he shouldn't need any sealer. It is only needed when the pan or main caps are removed. cozye, my only guess is that the lip got knicked when you put it in. If it IS engine oil and not gear oil, you are pretty much screwed and will have to pull the trans again. Rear main leaks only get worse and the oil can ruin your new clutch. It really sucks, but you should pull it soon.

Then yep, you are correct. I guess I was basing the trans on what I actually used. It must have at least 1/8 qt. trapped. As for the diff, I was thinking of the R180. You have an R200 in your manual trans 280, so it will take over a qt. I've been told to apply lots of heat to the fill plug for easier removal. I still haven't gotten the plug out of my '78. I filled my 260's R200 through the vent since the diff was out and I couldn't get the plug loose.

Amazon carries it for about $12 a qt. if you can't find it locally. BTW, I don't think you need that much. I'm remembering just about 1 qt. for the diff and 2qts. for the trans. I'm not near my FSM, but you might want to check that first. No point in buying extra. You won't need to change it for a long time.

Easier said that done on the diff. Be sure to remove the fill plug first. If you remove the drain plug and then can't get the fill plug loose, you can't easily refill the fluid. The fill plug is a pain to remove. Lots of heat might be needed before it breaks free.

Yep, I can appreciate that. I had a '75 that had the same exact rust patterns. The RH side was rotten from the windshield all the way down the firewall to the rear kickup panel just like yours. My RF strut tower also had the same holes.

+1 on the Redline. Here's a link that explains what you need. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/mtl/index.html Most Z owners use MT90 rather than MTL for the trans and 75W90 gear oil for the diff. Don't use MT90 for the diff as it is not formulated for that usage.

You read my mind. I was thinking the same thing and was going to draw on the picture in MS Paint. Can anybody help explain the process? I'm out of spit and I'm too busy right now to mark up the picture. :stupid:

Very unlikely. Like I said earlier though, you don't NEED a new handle. The fix is free and takes less than an hour to do both sides. You need only a few simple tools that you likely have.

Pretty funny that they are priced different for the two sides.

I don't have a picture handy Jan, but I'll try to explain. If you look at the handle, there is an arm at each end of the handle facing inwards which is what always breaks. To save money, Nissan only tooled one handle with two arms that can be used on either side of the car. Only the rearward arm of each handle is used on each side of the car. When you swap the two handles side to side, the forward arm becomes the rearward arm. That broken arm will no longer be needed since it will be the forward arm when mounted on the opposite side of the car. The only thing you need to do is swap the little plastic keeper over that the rod goes through. Once you or your mechanic looks at it, it will be obvious how it works. If you still don't understand, let me know and I'll take a picture of a spare handle tonight when I get home. EDIT: Gotta love google images. I found this... It shows the two arms and the little plastic keepers. You broke the RH arm on your driver's side, but the LH arm is still good. Do you understand now?

Like EScanlon said, just swap the LH and RH handles. They are the same and each has two arms (the part that broke off). Only the rear arm is used on each handle, so when you break one, you can swap the two sides. You will now be using the two arms that have never been used. Of course this only works if they have never been swapped by a PO. I've had to swap them on quite a few Z cars.

There will always be a few threads showing and depending on the inserts, there could be quite a few threads showing. Most inserts come with new gland nuts and I've seen quite a few that are really tall. As long as they clamp the insert tightly into the tube, they are fine. What you don't want is for the nut to bottom on the tube without clamping the insert.

As an auto development engineer, we did a drive back in about 2004 with many sports cars and I was shocked at how similar the 350 was to the S30. The C6 Vette was actually lighter than the 350, but felt huge and heavy compared to the Z33. The other cars on the drive were all bigger and heavier (M5, GTO, CTS-V, GT500, etc.) and the Z was in a different league. It rode worse than the rest, but it had that driver connectivity that the S30 has in spades. The rest of the cars felt too isolated. When I drove a 370 on a similar drive last summer, it felt way more similar to the big, heavy cars. It was much more refined that the 350, but for me, that was a bad thing. I'm sure it's a better car to live with everyday than the 350, but for me it was a step in the wrong direction. The 350 got panned by the S30 faithful when it came out for being too big and heavy and built off a sedan platform. After driving one, I was a believer. It felt more like an S30 than anything else I had ever driven. That's why I was disappointed in the 370. Great car, but it lost that raw sports car feeling. Maybe with more time in the 370, I'd have a different opinion, but it just didn't do it for me.

I drove a 370 and I was a bit disappointed. The 350's I drove felt way more like an S30 than the 370 did. While the 370 is better looking and nicer inside, it lost a lot of the character that the 350 had. It felt bigger and heavier even though it is neither.

I'm with you Julio. I think the large louvers look best, but I'm not sure if they would look right with your BRE spoiler. I also plan to install a BRE, so I'll probably sell both of my louvers some day.

All of the pics so far are of the on-the-glass louvers. Is that the style you are looking for? If you are looking for pics of the larger body mounted louvers, let me know and I'll scan a 25 year old pic of a '76 Z I had. I currently have two sets of louvers, but none are currently mounted. I'm not sure if I really want to drill or not. I will say they they help keep the interior cooler in the summer. Edit: Michael beat me to it. He has the body mounted louvers.